Is this an inexperienced alignment guy?

Diver side



Passenger side


this is the “best”the could do with me replacing everything (literally new hardware and everything minus the actual knuckle itself (every component in/on the knuckle has been replaced) and every steering and suspension component as well and up graded the UCA…..As you can see all 4 are brand new moog greasable bolts part#

$38 K100127 Alignment Caster / Camber Kit for Toyota Tacoma

K100127 and the shop is telling me I need new cam bolts?????



Hey all new to the Tacoma world I have 1996 Tacoma 4x4 manual single 2.7 3rz with 32/11.5/r15 on 10 inch wide wheels with 2.5 inch strut spacer and an adds leaf in the rear from procomp for a lift/level kit I have tried to get my truck aligned 2 times they keep trying to tell me that I need more parts to get it aligned I have replaced my uca with a freedom off road uca with new ball joint that are suppose to compensate for 2”-4” lift replaced lca (new bushings came preinstalled as well for lower and upper)lower ball joint upper ball joint inner outer tie rods steering rack and bushings as well as the lca bolts with the moog greasable bolt kit because the old ones had to be cut out , I had the knuckle rebuilt with new bearings and seals with new cv axels and manual lock outs as well as new struts sway bar links and bushings new power steering pump and rag joint and new tires


They are still telling me I need to get after market caster/camber bolt kit because they cannot get the caster camber correct like 1.9 on driver and 1.5 on passenger (I’m thinking it was positive I will have to double check when I get home)

Can they not use alignment shims to get it in the green and treued up? And are the uca not suppose to correct that and give you the extra/correct degrees to not have to replace the cam bolts.

I’m currently surchimg threads now to learn everything I can from previous post I’m just trying to get answers as soon as possible this is my daily an really need it back on the road

 

I'd hit up another shop, possibly even the dealer. Cam bolts aren't gonna change anything for you there, it just looks like the guy didn't know how to use them properly there are no shims for this setup. Just the eccentric bolts. Probably drives straight left based on those numbers. A good alignment will be equal with camber, toe and about 0.5* more caster on the right side than the left

 

Those look to be maxed out for positive camber...odd.

Yeah UCAs should have you in the positive at least....unless some of the parts are incorrect somehow.

 

This is bad, it’s upside down. Find a new shop or bring it back and tell them to fix it.

 

Thats honestly kinda small potatoes being upside down like that. Sure it can get clipped but if it gets clipped and damaged i'm sure you'd have bigger problems than just catching the cam.

I agree otherwise though and would go to a different shop. Maybe a suspension specializing one, not alot of guys understand alignments

 

You’re correct about getting clipped but it means it’s unsupported from being knocked out of alignment. One pothole and you’re eating tires.

 

I've never heard that before but fair enough, i'll keep an eye on those cams now and see if they change due to orientation after alignments

 

Thank you guys very much I was thinking the same as well I will be making another appointment in another town my small town has only one option ( I usually go out of town but didn’t want to ruin new tires)we have and this guy is a new face a that local shop so I’ll definately be taking it to another shop!!!!!!!!!!


yes it pulls to the driver side tremendously dose anyone think it will destroy new tires maybe 30- miles to next town

 

It’s what I was told by a Toyota tech while getting an alignment years ago. Now on 35s so they don’t get to touch anymore. Could have been blowing smoke I guess but I can picture how it would happen.

I live in the northeast, lots of potholes and I like to wheel. I hate alignments

Should be fine, maybe do a tire rotation after but probably not necessary.

 

Ya you'll be fine, your alignment wouldn't really cause tire wear. Will just want to exit stage left in a big hurry

 

Thank you very much for the input I was starting to feel like I was out of my mind and just completely missing something lol

I wasn’t sure how the shims worked exactly something I remembered my father talking about them years ago.

Yes sir I have a terrible pull to the left I was super confused how I was almost 2degree negative on one side amd a little over 1 degree in the positive on the opposite side and the eccentric part of the bolt being flipped opposite from one another I had never personally seen and had me thinking ( not dissing people have to learn the trade ((maybe should have been upfront about it)) lack of experience and seems to be what it is

the little extra degree on the right side is for compensating for for the crowning of the roads correct?

 

thamk you both very much this forum seems to be supper insightful and almost EVERYONE seems to willing to help out and I am greatly appreciative of all you guys I mean that!!!!!

 

Glad I could offer assistance and hey even with me doing alignment after alignment all day everyday for 4 months straight, it took me a month to actually know what I was doing and 3 months to become good at it and actually understand the angles and how they effect the drive.

And yes, it's dependant on the tires you have and road surface and such but 0.5* more caster on the right side will usually keep you tracking straight down the road with everything else equal on both sides. Or at the least it'll be enough compensation you can live with it. Also for your tire size I would also maybe shoot for 0.7* camber positive on both sides to lighten up the steering and help mitigate your truck wandering from the grooves in the road caused by the heavy haulers( If your roads are grooved from heavy haulers)

 

I didn't read through all of these because its 6am. So if this was mentioned, apologies. I'd be more concerned with how the cams are not up against the tabs in several pics. It's going to go out of alignment again soon. Quicker if you wheel. Several of the photos show a gap between the cam and the tabs. I would recommend a set of cam eliminators paired with a set of aftermarket cam tabs to lock it all in place. I was also sick of getting alignments so I went with a cam tab kit form Dirt King and a set of cam bolt eliminators for 333 Fabrication. No more alignments for me.