Bleeding ABS 2010 RWD Tacoma

Glad for all the info.
I think it'll work with the pressure bleeder, if not, there's always a shop. It just ain't in my DNA to pay mechanics. I'd rather buy tools. It's on its way, in any case. I'll post results. Case of beer says it'll work.

 

@ovrlndkull

 

See The Lair I posted the factory service procedure as well as service manual stuff in there

 

Just wondering if you ever got the air out of your abs module. I have a 2007 TRD Sport with a 4.0L it to has a vacuum operated booster and my abs module is on the passenger fender well. I'm having the same exact problem you were having and trying to figure out the best way to approach it without going to a dealer

 

Buy a scanner for a few grand

 

Would rather go to Toyota and have them use the Techstream to bleed the ABS module.

 

You can pressure bleed till you are blue in the face. The abs module has to be activated to bleed

 

Took mine to a shop awhile back when I had this issue. They activated the ABS module , half hour and 95 bucks later it stopped like a new truck.

 

Wondering if I need to take mine in. Did new rotors, pads, and stainless lines on mine and never got all the squish out. Would this dealer service apply to my 2012 SR5 4x4?

 

Most likely. Every time I opened a line it was customary to use a scanner to bleed the abs after a manual bleed was performed.

 

So, what was your result?

 

So, this last response is at least a year old. Apologies for not responding. The pressure bleeder did absolutely nothing. It barely had the balls to dribble brake fluid out of an opened bleeder nipple. Junk. Since then also got a vacuum bleeder, ditto, useless. Then I put speed bleeders on all four calipers to make sure I was getting good bleeding. Didn't do squat. I am finally taking it to a mechanic nearby somebody recommended who claims it has to be done with a scanner. As I said earlier, I hate paying mechanics, especially since neither of the two that I already asked about it had a clue. One said I needed a new master cylinder (have replaced it twice) and the other charged me $80 to use his vacuum bleeder to zero effect. So finally I'm a broken man. I'm taking in. So that was my result. I would have taken it to a pro earlier but neither of the TWO PRO mechanics I talked to already said anything about activating the ABS with a computer. I'm stoked. I'm expecting rock hard brakes in about a week from now.

 

So did they bleed your problem away?

 

I haven't been to the mechanic yet but I do have some first hand experience to report about scanners. Or, cheap scanners. On another thread people were talking about the Autel MaxiCheck Pro which has an auto bleed function so I ordered one. $200. After a few false tries it finally was able to talk to my Tacoma. You go to a "special functions" menu under "ABS" and two of them (why two?) are autobleeds. Basically I followed all the steps, set up the bleeder hose in a cup the way I always do, elevated it on a crate so the bubbles go up and bled all four brakes. When you push the "go" button the ABS pump runs for 4 seconds. You keep your foot on the pedal, or at least, I did. I did 4 or 5 of those in a row for each wheel. It pumps a shitload of brake fluid. When it was all over my brakes were exactly the same, so I sent it back. (The OBD menu function wouldn't work on my truck anyway). I only used one of the "auto bleed" choices so it occurred to me that one of them may have operated the ABS module but the one I used did not. Stupid me. So, if anybody has one of these scanners and tries both autobleed operations, let us know.

 

If all the bleeding isn't doing anything, and especially if the brakes seem to work by pumping, you may have an internal leak (bypassing the seal(s)) in either the master cylinder or one or more of the caliper(s) and/or wheel cylinder(s).

 

The fluid doesn't go down and I've replaced the MC twice...no fluid anywhere but I get the concept

 

I assume the MC was bench bled? When I did the MC in my old Ranger, I kept bleeding and bleeding, but nothing. Then I remembered I didn't bench bleed the MC before install. The MC on the Ranger was slightly tilted, so there is no way to bleed it once installed, so I had to take it back out to bleed.

Luckily it looks like Tacos can be done in place.

2. BLEED MASTER CYLINDER



HINT:

If the master cylinder has been disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.

(a) Using a union nut wrench, separate the brake tubes from the master cylinder.


(b) Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it there (Step A).


(c) Block the outer holes with your fingers, and release the brake pedal (Step B).


(d) Repeat steps A and B 3 or 4 times.

(e) Using a union nut wrench, install the brake tubes into the master cylinder.

Torque:

without union nut wrench -

20 N·m {199 kgf·cm, 14ft·lbf}

with union nut wrench -

18 N·m {187 kgf·cm, 13ft·lbf}

HINT:

• This torque value can be obtained by using a torque wrench with a fulcrum length of 300 mm (11.8 in.) and a union nut wrench with a fulcrum length of 20 mm (0.787 in.) .
• This torque value is effective when the union nut wrench is parallel to the torque wrench.

 

Thanks. I did bench bleed the MC before I put it in but at one point I ran the reservoir dry. If I weren’t so busy and had any confidence it would work, and a helper, I’d follow that procedure and re- bleed the brakes but as it stands I have an appt. tomorrow at the mechanic and I’ve already spent the money in my head, so bombs away.