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Question about alignment and lifts

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by pepperoni, Oct 25, 2023.

  1. Oct 25, 2023 at 10:40 AM
    #1
    pepperoni

    pepperoni [OP] Active Member

    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2022
    Member:
    #394790
    Messages:
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    Gender:
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    Denver area
    Vehicle:
    2014 Silver Tacoma DCSB TRD Off-Road
    Kenwood DMX9708S head unit CBI Off-road bed rack Yakima Road-shower mounted to the bedrack Bilstein 6112 Icon RTX leaf pack
    I wasn't planning on lifting my tacoma until next year, but my driver side stock coil is going bad so it's time to pull the trigger. Thankfully I already knew exactly what I wanted, and it was in stock, so it should arrive pretty quickly (I went with Bilstein 6112 in front, and an Icon RXT leaf kit for the rear, since my stock leaf springs are very saggy and an add-a-leaf wasn't gonna cut it).

    In preparation for after the install, I called my local firestone to see if they could do alignments on lifted vehicles, and they said they could BUT only toe. They said the machines they have only have stock height calculations for vehicles, so they can't adjust the camber and castor. I then called a local 4x4 shop who definitely can do lifted alignments, but they are booked until January.

    So my question is this: How much tire damage could I do if i just went with a toe-only alignment after install, and then got the full proper alignment in January from the 4x4 shop? If I drive 4-5k miles on unaligned castor/camber, how much damage are we potentially talking?

    Another option is to take the coilovers apart when they arrive, and adjust the clip setting back down to stock, get the full alignment at stock height, and then closer to january take it all apart again and move the clip setting back to 2.2", but that's a hell of a lot of work.
     
  2. Oct 25, 2023 at 10:45 AM
    #2
    Bishop84

    Bishop84 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2015
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    #172494
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    Firestone is for routine alignments find a better shop.

    Basically, you want nearly the same specs as a stock truck, it's just harder to achieve with a lifted truck, because of geometry, you lose caster and gain camber when lifting, so you max out the adjustments to get it closer to stock. Some like higher caster.

    But basically, for a 6112 lift, you want 1.5 degrees of caster or higher, 0.6 degrees of camber or lower, and slightly higher toe than nominal stock.

    If you do just toe it will likely pull like crazy and possibly burn the edges of the tires.
     
    gotoman1969 and pepperoni[OP] like this.

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