Installing OE Style Switch - Disable Light?

I'm going in to install the 2-LO mod and I've decided the mis-match lighting on the switch will bug me and I'd rather it just be unlit. Now that I am looking at the switch and the little wiring schematic it came with, it's striking me that this may be more complicated than I had initially thought with how things are these days - is this something I can do, short of disassembling the switch and removing the LED?

 

Blackout paint.

 

I was thinking not connecting the switch illumination wire, but without knowing which type of switch...

 

The portion of the switch that is lit up not related to use (I think it’s be lower section) can easily be cut off by a disconnecting the one wire to the green plug that is ignition power. I’m not sure which wire color that is.

Disabling the light that comes on when the switch is pressed will be more complicated. You would need to open the switch up and unsolder or break off that diode. That one turns on from power flowing through the switch when active, and that power is for the 2Lo mod itself so you don’t be able to change anything about how the power flows through the switch. So you have to physically disable the upper light from coming on.

 

On/Off switch without illumination would be a very easy choice.

 

I assume you will need to use the switch at night. Finding it would be nice at night. You can mute the brightness with light application of a dark film but still find it.

 

I'm installing mine tomorrow. This is what mine shows. If I hook it up and it is crazy bright at night I'll probably cut the wire. Appears to be show the blue one needs to go, so third one down on the pre-wired connector when oriented the same.

 

And as stated before, if the ON LED is bright, remove LED. Then you get a simple on/off switch no illumination on it at all.

 

^ so you’re saying that by disabling the top LED that the bottom one won’t come on with the dash lights? Now I’m confused. My AOB switch seems to have the top part illuminated when the switch is on, and the bottom one lit with the dash lights.

 

No

 

Ah. So for an unlit switch, remove top LED, and either cut the wire or remove the bottom LED as well?

 

Correct, or just get an unlit on/off switch.

 

I'm very thankful for all the effort put in to make this harness and all the tips and video on the install. The tips I can add are... the airbag wasn't too hard to remove with a headlight on and removing the tab on the right side first to see how they are secured before trying to remove the others. I removed the soft pad above the glove box (as well as the trim around the head unit) to make the glove box removal easier...they both come easily off with a pull. I installed the switch in the blank spot (manual trans) in the center console and it was easy to reach through once the glovebox is out. The Air On Board switch matches the blue backlight of the rest, but the bottom LED is always on, so I used a sharpie on the lower LED to dim it so it can't be seen during the day and also matches the brightness of the others at night (I have my lights on max dim). The cover of the switch comes off easily with a firm pull to allow access to the LEDs.

 

Invert the feed to the switch (fused power) so that the switch light is ON only when pressed.


The switch might be internally inverted to the instruction sheet. Like right side drawing here.

 

I was caught up in the install and missed these..

My switch came from CH4X4, my guess is they are the same as any other PnP style switch since they use the factory connections.

Don’t care about night illumination, not something you activate while driving anyway. I was going to rearrange the switches and have it all the way on the left under the 4x4 selector and a couple other moves but Toyota decided to key the switches so they only go where designed (well, at least one was, then I gave up on that).

I don’t mind if a light is on when it’s activated (which won’t be often), so just to double check before I pull it all apart again - if I pop the green wire out of the connector (and insulate it), the switch will function as it should, and will only have the top part lit when activated?

I should have just gotten the one with the right lighting..it’s too bad the graphic on it was hideous. The two companies need to join forces.

 

It's pretty easy to black out the LED then you don't have to worry about cutting the wrong wire. Or you could get another switch...

 

No. Switch the wires to the switch. Specifically the one the comes from the fuse tap to the switch and the one from the switch to the accessory.