3.4L proactive idlers, pulleys, and clutch replacement ??

Getting some intermittent sounds from the front end of the motor that I would guess are a bearing in some rotating item going out. 155k on the truck, 55k on the timing belt + water pump. The timing belt is the only maintenance job I haven't done on the truck, as I was without a garage and tools at the time (living in an apartment).

I know I need to get my stethoscope out and pinpoint the noise, but it hasn't happened when I have been at home yet (and I am not sure where the stethoscope ended up during the move ). I am just trying to wrap my head around what's up there, that could make a rotational noise and I can proactively replace.

1) Fan clutch - easy & cheap, doesn't seem likely to make noise but easy. asain ~$95 I see options with tow package, and without. I don't think my truck came with a tow package, but I do tow from time to time, would it be "better" to get the one for the tow package. I assume it just runs the fan more?

2) AC clutch - seems harder, clutch sold separately, but seems smart to replace 22 y/o compressor as well especially since I already have the ac manifolds and vacuum. have to remove ps pump. denso ~$2xx

3) AC idler - seems easy ?

4) PS pump - seems easy, just have to deal with PS fluid. I know I need to clean my reservoir anyway, just as easy to replace the 22y/o item. ~$2xx

5) Alternator- 105amp denso upgrade seems easy. I see this listed a reman for $170... Is there a reasonably priced new option? Rock auto has a 80amp denso reman. I am not sure I need the upgrade- I don't have a winch or other high draw items.

6) New belts - obviously.

Outside of pullies related to the timing belt and water pump. Am I missing anything?

 

I'd try removing the belt and spinning everything by hand and listening for the noise.

for the timing components, i've found on 3.0's (i know thats a different engine) the idler with the water passage going through it is usually the problem child. With the engine running either stethoscope is with the engine running or put your fingers on the passage with the engine running. If you don't have a "feel" for a bad bearing you may not know what you're feeling for

 

Good plan. My only concern is cheap people will only do the timing belt and not the water pump or idlers. Hate for that to be your issue and be the last thing you replace. I have the 100 amp denso alternator. Found it on Amazon for $160 with no core charge. You can remove one belt at a time and see if you can isolate removing which belt fixes the sound.

 

I'd suggest ruling out the idler pulley first, because it's so quick and easy (and cheap) if it turns out to be the culprit. You can press in a replacement

$17 6301-2RS Bearing - Lubricated Chrome Steel Sealed Ball Bearing - 12x37x12mm Bearings with Rubber Seal & High RPM Support

6301-2RS bearing into the OEM idler pulley housing (easy peasy, and costs about $3).

6301-2RS Bearing


Or AutoZone carries a Duralast one that is actually decent. Usually opposed to using parts store-branded parts on my truck, but I didn't have the patience to wait for the 6301-2RS bearings to come in from Amazon, or pay like $150 for an OEM replacement. So I've been running the Duralast one about 7 months, no problems. I've still got my OEM one with the new PGN bearing installed, and that'll go back on when the Duralast one fails.

Duralast 231038

 

Ya'll are right- I should hold off on the parts cannon, and go with a more methodical approach.

@Red_03Taco Thanks for the idler bearing part number.

I am going to order a fan clutch, those bearings, and new belts. Those are all super easy and doing the belts will let me spin the other aforementioned bearings/pulleys and see what I get.

@tacoman2001$ I had a good shop do the timing belt, but I didn't really have good optics on exactly what they replaced, or with what brands. I could probably call them and see if they have any records, but I could almost guarantee that it was OEM or asain parts. While it would be a pain to open up the timing cover, it doesn't look too difficult if I had to open things up, back off the belt tension, and replace the pulleys in there. Redoing the job with known parts isn't out of the question for me at this point either. A few hundred-to-a-thousand bucks to keep this motor purring trouble free for the next few years is well worth it for me. Although it's just coming out of the new Land Cruiser down payment at this point