Post needle bearing repair problem

Just a quick question. I brought my 2019 Tacoma in yesterday for a needle bearing replacement. It was at the Toyota dealership for this repair so I’m guessing it wasn’t replaced with the ECGS bushing, which I would have preferred, but it was under warranty so free.
Anyway, I got it back today and every time I hit a bump, I hear a loud clanking sound coming from driver side front end. Didn’t notice when I picked it up as I was on a smooth highway mostly on way home. But when i got home on local bumpy roads, Definitely not normal and definitely not a sound that was there before repair. Of course I’m gonna bring it back but now it’s the weekend and the dealership is about an hour away. My question is, I’m gonna take a better look tomorrow, but what should I be looking for? I took a quick look but it was dark out so hard to see anything. I’m just worried about the hour ride back to Toyota to fix it and if it’ll be safe to drive. I mean, in the process of replacing the needle bearing, what could they have possibly messed up or did wrong to make it do this? It looked like a pretty simple fix? Thanks. Like I said, I’m definitely gonna bring it back but want to make sure I don’t do more damage by driving it more, but don’t know what could be makin the noise. I tried to take a video I’ll try to post shortly.

 

Another case of "under warranty free" not being quite so. Do things right, especially when there's a mountain of evidence. Now you wanna go back to the same dealer? Quit digging the hole you're in.

 

https://youtu.be/UL3lDcWdfHo?si=BnomeMRL07XQ2f86

https://youtube.com/shorts/ZcPFo_tPGyU?si=73fk5TMvrUFHWP0P

 

Look at any components bolted to the knuckles.
The sway bar, tie rod, and the lower ball joint mount are the first ones I’d look at.

 

Thanks. Will do. That’s about the only parts they would have needed to touch to do repair, right?
Anyway, hopefully something simple maybe I’ll be able to find.

 

Pretty much. Some guys claim you can leave the CV in the hub to do the bushing/bearing.
But I took mine out, it gives you more room to work.

 

Well. They need to remove certain items in order to get your axle shaft removed to replace the bearing so it sounds like one of those components didn’t get tightened. Since it’s the weekend. Maybe pull your front left wheel off and check all the components in that area. From the video it doesn’t sound horrible but…It also doesn’t sound good. Keep track of your time and send them the Bill. I replayed that vid numerous times and it’s odd. Almost sounds like your axle nut is loose. IF that’s the case. Don’t just let them get away with tightening it. Your wheel bearing just lost half it’s life span.Make them replace it.

 

^^^^^^^^

This!!!

 

They aren’t going to pay you for your time fixing it.
If you are that concerned, have it towed to the dealership.
Then get a rental.
You might…..might…..(and probably won’t) be reimbursed for the rental.

I’d crawl under there and have a look.
If I find something, and it some I could fix, I’d fix it.
Then call the dealership and tell them you had to fix “their issue”.

If you don’t feel comfortable fixing it yourself. Limit your driving and have the dealership tow it to their shop.

You’ve already driven it this far, if any damage was done, it’s already done.
I’m betting it’s a loose steering or suspension part. Since it happens when you hit bumps, I’m betting it’s a sway bar end shock mount component.

 

They left something loose, take it back

 

Once again, thanks everyone for your help. Checked it out this morning and ended up being the bracket on the sway bar. I guess someone forgot to re-tighten the bolts that hold it on driver side. Simple fix. Glad it wasn’t anything major. Couldn’t tell by the sound it made. Makes me think though, someone was in a hurry and didn’t do a test run to make sure all was correct.,

 

Some times its easier just look and not think the world is ending.. Very happy to read that you did that instead of screaming at the dealer. People can miss stuff.

You could be like a lot of us and have a clunk in the front that you can never can find to fix..
like me.. :-(
- Re-torqued everything
- Replaced with newer style shoulder bolts for strut LOWER CONRL ARM MOUNT
- Replaced Cab mount bushings
- Replaced Stay bar with polyurethane bushings
- Did the EGGS bushing when new-ish so everything was rust free 50K ago
- Added the second spring clip on the caliper to not have the pads click (had some anyways)
look at the form for clicking/clunk noise over bumps took 45K miles to first show up on mine..

May not be a bad idea to Re-torqued everything anyways.... If you want

So 10 years and only 26 messages, that a good game of hide and go seek.

MOOG K80820 Suspension Stabilizer Bar Bushing Kit

$19 MOOG K80820 Suspension Stabilizer Bar Bushing Kit for Toyota Tacoma

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CA22H6?ie=UTF8

1996-2021 GENUINE TOYOTA & LEXUS BOLT "H", LOWER CONRL ARM MOUNT 90105-14104
https://www.ebay.com/itm/225084444666?epid=656841996


TOYOTA 8" CLAMSHELL BUSHING (ELIMINATES NEEDLE BEARING)
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html

 

Still
Pretty scary how much stuff they miss . When I was a mechanic ( I’m not saying I didn’t ever make a mistake ) I new the procedure so when I was done I went through it again in my head and sometimes re touching things to make sure I didn’t miss anything . Then I always took a quick test ride before and after . If the car was running coming in .

 

So did the new needle bearing fix the issue you had in your other post? Your description of the issue sounds almost dead on to what I’m experiencing. I’m planning on doing the ECGS bushing rather than a new needle bearing, but just wanted to see if this solved it for you?

 

You can not trust mechanics. If you want it done right, do it yourself.

 

I have a great mechanic. Took forever to find him, but I did. And I'm super fing picky.

 

Yeah. I don’t know why people are constantly bashing mechanics. I’ve seen people “do it themselves” and cost them 3x what it would have cost them if they would have just taken it to a “mechanic” in the first place.

There’s a time and place for doing it yourself. But sometimes, you just aren’t “the guy for the job”.