ATF - Stop Rust Treatment?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wh2xK7GZqSI

My dad showed me this video and he wants to do this to his Tacoma. It's a Michigan Truck 2006 TRD OFF Road, 190,000 miles.

Wondering what you guys think of this?

 

I think you should tell your dad to look on YouTube for Woolwax.

 

I think he can give it a try after he looks up how to use one of these:

 

I personally don't think it will work as good as the guy in the video thinks it will.
But I can't prove it. I just don't think it's a good as he thinks it is.

The only thing I will add is, I'd use a garden sprayer to apply it with.
You don't need that fancy sprayer and air compressor. A garden sprayer will work just as well.
That's what I use to spray on the cleaning solution when I pressure wash houses.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/1-Gallon...5cuT-B0llZuQeZKSD-VOgeKVkYJy4VfYaAmJqEALw_wcB

 

+1 to this. Use the right tool for the job. And to be clear the right tool in this case isn't some DIY concoction from YouTube.

I prefer Woolwax but others like Fluid Film - both are lanolin-based coatings and are what you should use. Some others use Cosmoline or other treatment services/products, just read about them and pick one. But IMO Woolwax is the best.

 

seems relatable
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...o-live-in-the-rust-belt.817020/#post-29302677

 

I wouldn't think you'd wool wax over something this bad?

We've had this truck less than a year so the rust was something I couldn't prevent but now that I have it .... Engine is better than my truck, no leaks or seeps. Clean title with the frame replaced. I'm just thinking about buying some time till I replace everything else. I did wheel, prime, and paint the rock guards and rear bumper/hitch assembly. I don't think I'll wheel that axle housing....I'd love to just replace it, the drive shaft, and the leaf springs, all in one pop. That's just not really in the cards right now.

I've got ATF, B'Laster and Dawn in the garage. I was thinking I'd just do one 16 oz spray bottle

Thanks for the input.

 

WW or FF or what you have
Cosmoline for fresh clean
ATF for trying to get on the EPA's dance card

 

Thoughts on a needler vs wire disc?

 

I prefer Woolwax but others like Fluid Film - both are lanolin-based coatings and are what you should use. Some others use Cosmoline or other treatment services/products, just read about them and pick one. But IMO Woolwax is the best.[/QUOTE]

Not sure if any you mates remember but i had me a case of the rust on my frame and surface shield to me seemed the best i used a type of rust convertor which wasn't bad either but surface shield really coats it and claims to last 2 years. Some far it seems good definitely better than the fluid film brand i used before.

 

A needler is best if you have scale rust – the kind that you can flake off with a hammer, screwdriver, or sometimes even your finger nail. I used a tack hammer on mine, which was effective but slow. The needler made much shorter work of it, but you need a fairly big air compressor and neighbors that won’t show up with torches and pitchforks after you’ve been at it for a half an hour.

Once you’re done with the needler or whatever else you use for the scale, you still need that monster wire wheel or equivalent to take care of the rest of the rust.

 

Thank you. Would a rust converter/encapsulator applied after needling be good enough? I'd plan on fluid filming after that

 

In theory, yes, but the old phrase “your mileage may vary“ really applies with regard to rust encapsulation/conversion products. I don’t think the Rustoleum rust converter/primer does much rust conversion at all. I’ve used EvapoRust, and in one outdoor application on the underside of a metal shelf, I see rust poking back through after one year.

Based upon the number of posts I’ve seen here in the forums, the Eastwood line of products is among the best of the bunch. So long as you follow all of the instructions, it should be a good underlayment for fluid film or what have you. Another recommendation you’ll find quite often is getting rid of all of the rust, followed by an epoxy etching primer, then paint. That’s a much more involved process and certainly not one I was going to manage in my driveway. I’m banking on the fact that, since the truck will remain in California, my chosen rust remediation methods won’t cause me too much grief down the road. But if I have any spots where I see some rust again, I’ll just take care of those as they show up.

Good luck!