Goobered up new brake line

So I replaced the brake line coming down from the distributor down to the passenger wheel without doing my proper homework first. I'm not sure if I crossthreaded it (it was tight going into the 90) or if it was because it wasn't perfectly square onto the 90, but I have a weep going on. Tightening enough to round the nut out didn't fix it (should have done my research first).. anyway my question is do I only need another new brake line or do I need a brake line and 90 degree piece?

Any pro tips on how to not re-screw this up? And if I do need to remove the 90, any tips on removing the other side of it without messing that line up?

 

I'd start off with making sure you have the proper brake line wrench. You have two options, with the amount of rust that's on the elbow you risk damaging the other flared brake line when you remove that one as well. If you have a wire bristle brush, you can brush the threads of the right most brake line to help break it free. Spray penetrant oil on it to let it soak for a few days prior to removing it. If I were in your shoes, I'd just replace the line you goobered up. Pull it and check the threads in the elbow. Just make sure you're using the right tools though since the brake line wrenches have more engagement with the nut.

-J

 

Thank you, I am using a crows foot wrench, I think the elbow and new line were not lined up perfectly when I installed it,so it didn't seal correctly.. then I tried tightening more, which just rounded off the nut. I should have done my research first!

I think ill buy another line, elbow, and a short piece and just replace everything, being much more careful this time!

 

I would ditch the crows foot and get a proper brake line wrench unless you have the

$20 SUNEX TOOLS 9708 3/8" Drive Fractional Crowfoot Flare Nut Wrench Set, 3/8" - 7/8", Fully Polished, 8-Piece

crows foot brake line wrenches. Also, you can bend the brake line to a point but what you want to avoid is inducing a kink or twist in the line as that could restrict fluid flow. Again, there are proper tools to bend the lines but you would be fine making small adjustments by hand unless you're mildly OCD like me.

-J

 

Personally like you said I would probably replace the 90 and both lines to it if you're able to right now. I've learned from past experiences its not worth it to take shortcuts or replace only the minimum when it comes to brake lines. Getting another leak down the road is probably going to be at an inconvenient time (or could be dangerous). You'll spend way more time having to go back and do it again and bleeding than you would just doing one more step the first time and never worrying about it again.

 

Decent amount of rust on that fitting. I'd go with what J said, just replace the one line (and hope the elbow isn't messed up).

Otherwise Id want to replace everything in the picture if the elbow is in fact messed up.

 

When you redo it, some arbitrarily use flare gaskets from the get-go to prevent a weep/leak, and some use it only when there's a weep/leak.

They are essentially copper crush gaskets for flare fittings. Most reasonable price I have found them is from my local Grainger - even cheaper than Amazon or McMaster (assuming you have a local Grainger and can pickup).

 

Thank you! Is it advisable to try these in my situation as a permanent fix?

 

Replace both lines and the elbow don’t half ass it. Do it right your brakes keep ya from slamming into stuff.

 

Replace it all.

Use a line wrench.

The threads on these can be a bitch to get started, don't expect it to go in right away as I had a hell of a time changing out my own lines before on these Toyota's.

You can tell it went in cock-eyed; make sure the next one goes in and not at an angle as you thread it on.

 

Chances are you didn’t get it in straight and cross threaded it damaging the new line, the 90, or both. The 90 definitely could stand replacing. It looks like it isn’t round anymore where the new line goes. My 10mm 1/4 drive crows foot line socket gets plenty of use. Snapon so don’t ask what it cost, probably triple the cost of that whole set.

 

Yeah I just picked up all 3 pieces. Going to replace today, God willing I can get the bracket bolt off the frame and the small line off of the coupling to the hose. Been PB plasting for 2 days now.

Would you (or anyone else with experience) recommend using those copper gaskets as well? Any benefit or detriment to doing so? I'm in for 140 in parts total, another 10 isn't going to kill me.

 

You shouldn't need to use the copper gaskets unless the parts breakdown calls for it but I dont think it does based on what I can recall. Since you're using all new equipment, you should be good to go just make sure you're using the right tools. I have good luck with using a rubber mallet and tapping on the wrench to loosen stuck bolts/nuts.

-J

 

If you can pop the frame plug out, get some PB on the underside of that bolt holding the bracket in. That should help a lot

 

Don't use the gaskets if you're starting out fresh again with all three pieces. And try getting the lines started into the elbow before mounting it onto the frame..

 

Get everything started by hand first. If you do something so the new threads aren’t dry, that helps. Even a little brake fluid will provide a bit of lubrication.

Pictures got me believing you’re in the rust belt. Anti seize should be your best friend.

 

I'm pleased to report that the 3 pieces were replaced with a minimum of fuss and swearing. Started everything carefully by hand, and everything is snugged down.. took it for a short drive with some hard braking and no leaks/weeps!

Going to keep an eye on it but I have my fingers crossed! Thank you all for the advice!

A parting question, I accidentally overfilled the brake reservoir a hair passed the max line (less than 1/4 inch past).. is this a problem?

 

No, it's fine

You can always dip some paper towel in there to soak some up if you want. Or bleed a little more out at the caliper

 

An overfilled reservoir won’t cause any harm NOW. Later when it’s time to replace pads or shoes, BEFORE you compress the calipers or wheel cylinders, remember that fluid is gonna go somewhere. You’ll find the reservoir all wet as if the fluid came out from under the cap.

Still I’d leave it like that. I prefer mine barely overfilled too.

 

Thanks, yeah when I change the pads/depress the calipers I typically take the top off the reservior and drape a rag around the opening to catch any overflow