Help -- Extremely Confusing Headlight Problem

I recently had my front passenger headlight go out. I turned my car off, and one hour later, I turn my car on, and the passenger headlight does not turn on.

Upon checking the bulb, (H1, 12V, 55W standard halogen headlight and high beam light - separate bulbs - see photo of headlights in link below) I found neither bulb was burned. I still bought H1 bulbs of the same specs to try. I plugged the new light into both the high-beam and the low-beam connections. Nothing happened (i.e. no light). I then decided to check all fuses. Every fuse relating to the headlights, high beams, and or fog lights, was intact. I then tried both the old and the new bulbs on the drivers side - neither lit up, even though the driver's side lights still work (high and low). I then decided to whip out the voltmeter. All fuses had low ohms values, and all lights were receiving power. The little relay connector 3-pronged had power on the battery side, and on the headlight side. However, I noticed a changed on voltmeter values when I wiggled the grounding.

So, I spliced the wires on the headlight side, and replaced the male portion of the connectors/relay plug thing, on the headlight side. Grounding has to be fine now, right? High-beam and low-beam passenger lights still received power.......at first!!

Then, I noticed the power fluctuated. Then, it stopped. LED light bar in the headlight (a blue wire) still works fine, and has worked since the light went out.

It doesn't appear to be fuses, it doesn't appear to be the bulb (....or is it???), it doesn't appear to be the relay/connector, and doesn't appear to be grounding or a wire problem. I also chased all wires and all were in tact.

THEN, while driving one night, my HID fog lights went out, and the headlight indicator on my dash suddenly turned off, even through my headlights were on, and still continue to turn on.



SO WHAT IS IT??? Anyone?? Anyone have any ideas?

I'm planning on replacing the ballast boxes and fog light bulbs regardless, so that's happening. But what else? What is even occuring. DISCLAIMER: I HAVE NOT tried the driver's side bulbs on the passenger side, but why would that matter, right? New bulbs don't even work.








Headlights (i know, i know, they suck according to most - haven't run into any problems until now (2 years in)):

https://tacomabeast.com/products/20...Mc0ePUf_4R4m9GpSjeXvDTyf4wE8HSjBoCkEgQAvD_BwE

(NO I did NOT pay $300 and no I absolutely did NOT get these from TB (fuck them lol)

Bulbs I bought to test:

$6 SYLVANIA - H1 Basic - Halogen Bulb for Headlight, Fog, and Daytime Running Lights (Contains 1 Bulb)

https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-Bas...2905655&mcid=d13c7c616e6732778a916aa6245ea41e

 

Congrats on realizing the terrible quality of Spyder lighting products.

Sounds like your problem exists between the OEM harness plug and the bulbs, aka the janky Spyder adapter wiring harness. While you're looking at that compare the wiring gauge size to your OEM. I honestly wouldn't even bother with it, I'd pull those assemblies, put them in the trash and upgrade to OEM.

HID lights should never be run in the fogs, and I really hope you don't mean the stock halogen reflector fogs. That will just create blinding glare and a botched pattern without cut offs which makes it worthless in fog in addition to dangerous to other drivers. Cheap aftermarket Chinese ballasts are often not properly shielded against EMI and can back-feed EMI into your electrical system. Rather than spend more money investing in terrible and dangerous lighting products, I'd strongly recommend replacing your fogs with much higher performing LED assemblies that will have an SAE compliant pattern, not blind other drivers and actually perform well in the conditions which they are intended for.

Diode Dynamics SS3 Sports or SS3 Max are what I would recommend:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-led-sae-j583-fog-pod-fog-light-review.554813/

 

You really need to stop sugar candy coating your real feelings about cheap Chinese lighting products.

 

Tell me I’m wrong. Open main plug, not weather proof. Loose band around the ground split, not weather proof. Undersized wires to save cost and reduce output.

 

Aw, come on. That's just a headlight out of one of Kitzy's Power Wheels.

And you forgot the part about separate adjusters for high and low beams. Words fail me.

 

Not going to bust your balls for the headlamps, but if there is power *to* the headlamp plugs, I would check for continuity between the headlamps pigtail and the bulb socket. A too-thin wire may have broken inside the insulation or may have broken off where its crimped into the bulb socket.

And please do not reinstall and/or keep using HIDs in your fog lamps.