Sudden loss of power in 2016, what am I looking at?

yeh, I saw. And the first thing a tech would do at the dealer if towed in would be check the battery. Especially if OP didn’t have the codes on startup after disconnecting it.

 

Sure? They will pull a health check 1st and battery won't be on the list of problem codes.

 

codes obviously going to be an advantage here, but if you think the original battery is staying after all of this, I just will say I disagree.

 

OP stated he just started the engine and it is running. How is battery affecting CAN when the engine is running?

 

Remote diagnostics is only slightly less effective than remote bickering. The cause of the issue could be many things, but I'm thinking not the battery, it runs rough maybe not firing all cylinders...but it still starts. Bad gas? Fouled injectors? Mice ate the wiring? Any number of sensors puked? Following for hopefully not-too-painful resolution

 

Fruel pump?

 

It's misfiring. Reading the codes would tell you which cylinder, unfortunately you pulled the battery cable which cleared the codes. Now you have to drive until it codes again.

All manufacturers make the CEL flash during a misfire situation to get your attention and get you to stop driving asap. The reason is because during a misfire you've got unburned fuel going down into the converters. Converters don't like raw fuel. If the vehicle is under 8 yrs/80k miles the manufacturer is legally responsible for the converters so they make the light flash to get your attention. They've been doing this since the 90s

Forget about limp mode, forget about the heater. Drive it until the light comes back on and then get it scanned. Or take it to a shop and let them troubleshoot it. They'll likely try to sell you plugs and coils.

 

Op mentioned blinking MIL light. It is associated with misfires. So it could be: wiring, unplugged connectors, vacuum hoses, ignition, injectors, fuel pressure, maf, coolant temp, compression, valve timing, intake, pcv and ecm

 

And don’t forget voltage surge/drop

 

That would be OPs least worries.

 

Almost narrowed it down.

 

What’s the over/under for Cylinder 2 misfire ? I’m all in

 

Plugs and coils are the low hanging fruit. But a good shop should be checking compression (to rule out a mechanical issue) before throwing parts at it

 

Good...don't drive it.

When the check engine light is blinking...STOP. That indicates a catalyst damaging event...severe misfire typically. Keep driving like that and you'll be buying some very expensive cat converters.

 

Update?

 

So I wasn't able to get it towed in until today, they said it was an error code P0301 cylinder 1 misfire, but that the sparkplug in cylinder 2 was bad?

Anyway, no damage anywhere and they're going to swap out all of the plugs. Bad plugs at 31k seems weird, but it's not a disaster.

 

I'm Skeptical of that diagnoses, if you are so remote, you might ask them to keep and drive it for a few days and verify no codes or issues.

 

They're going to.

Fixed for fat finger typing.

 

OP, was your problem ever resolved?