El Taco Diablo... Mall Crawlin, now with LT for tall curbs

I don’t have c clips on my ff axle

Which makes me no help.

 

4340, 4340 Alloy, or 300M?

 

Usually its:
4140 - Entry (lowest of 3 strength tensile/psi rating)
4340 - Standard (mid range strength good price point/ strength)
300m - Extreme If you have the money to spend. (Increased strength from other two/ highest price point.)

4340 was/is the standard until RCV came in and released a 300m.

 

RCV doesn't have 4140 as an option. Just the one's listed above. I'm reading a lot of people think 300M is more brittle, and while stronger, more prone to catastrophic failure. I'm thinking I'll just go 4340. It's not like I have a thousand HP LS motor, it's a 3.4 lol.

 

Fuck, this is a pain in the ass.

So... anyone know what the width of a Toyota 30 spline C clip is off the top of their head?

This would be so much easier if Front Range would just answer their fucking emails.

 

4340 is the way to go, my front birfields are 300m but thats a seperate reasoning. Rear shafts are 4340.
300m full length shafts are not worth the extra price.

C-clips:
https://www.yotamasters.com/shop/axles/seals-gaskets-misc/birfield-snap-ring/

 

Ya, I need the actual thickness of the c-clip because I have to put that in to the build sheet for RCV. I was hoping RCV would be able to fill that in for me (they should be able to look that spec up) But that was one of the things I asked when they told me to just order the axle shafts through Front Range.

I'm trying to see if anyone, even on Pirate, or others, have said what the dimension of that clip is.

 

These are the dimensions I need




I have everything except for "G"

But if I don't have "G" I also don't have "A" or "F" or "E"

 

They are .125 (1/8") so error on caution at .20

 

Let's maybe check my work here.

I'm measuring with Ruff Stuff's axle guage for a 9.5 housing/3rd member.



My overall measure to the outside face of the drive flange body is 34 1/8 (34.125)

Here is the RCV diagram.



If I add 1/8 (.125) plus and 1/4 (.250) to the outside of the clip groove it makes my overall length 35

A) 35
B) 6
C) 4.5
D) 1.125 this makes the splines approx 1/8 (.125) longer than the splines in the 3rd member.
E) 1.375 (1 3/8) body of the drive flange is 7/8 (.875) + .20 for clip groove + 3/16 (.188) outside of clip groove (+ an additional 1/8 on the inside of the drive flange)
F) 1/4 (.25)
G) .20
H) 1.31 standard Toyota 30 spline seal surface
I) 30 spline
J) 30 spline

 

I mathed wrong on E)

.875 - 7/8 body of drive flange
.20 - 1/8+ clip grove
.188 - 3/16 outside of clip groove
.125 - excess inside drive flange body

E) 1.313

Also fucked up on A) Should be 34.5 not 35

 

Apparently no one wants to sell f'n axle shafts now days.

Been emailing Front Range since last week. No answer.
Emailed RCV yesterday. No response.

I guess I'm pretty impatient too lol

 

Man I waited 10 months for my rcv’s ordered through Solo. Luckily for me the truck has been waiting longer than that for an engine, brakes, fuel line, limit straps,…

 

I'm not waiting 10 months. I'll order something else before I do that.

 

4+ pairs of oem tundra axles

 

How much less did it cost you to DIY vs buying from Diamond minus the third? I know RS don't sell complete.

When I calculate DIY vs complete minus third, it was cheaper to buy complete than source parts from multiple suppliers and pay different shipping cost. No headache on measurement or having different people touch different parts etc.

 

The cost savings wasn't really a major factor. I wanted to build the axle, to build the axle, because I had never done one before. I've basically done everything on this truck myself. I wanted to keep it going. But... a Diamond finished axle would have been about 6700 before tax and shipping. I'm still actually under that, and that's with extras the Diamond axle wouldn't have had (I.E traction bar, bump pads, brake lines, diff skid, etc)

And I didn't want a Diamond housing. I think the RS housing looks better lol.

 

LOL. Giving money to business you don't want to is hard, especially when you don't want to do business with them to begin with but can't find an alternate.

Covid pricing skyrocket. I got the housing w/ FF end and hardware, RCVs shaft and a few other small items for the housing just shy of $2000 shipped.

 

When I ordered my crap, RS was no help. The most useless business at the time, can't even answer basic questions. RS kept referring to "well, you can check with marlin cralwer, trail gear, front range, bla bla bla". That was fine by me, I gave my money to Diamond. Glad I did, no stress to complete the build. Since then, I haven't order crap from RS. Same for Trail Broken Gear.

 

I've pretty much gotten to the point that I try and figure out what I need, on my own, (with help from this forum a lot of the time) before asking anyone.

Ruff Stuff is not much help (and they take forever to f'n ship items) But their stuff is quality and they are somewhat local.
Front Range / Diamond isn't much more help than Ruff Stuff... except the thing that pisses me off about them is they know the answers, they just don't really want to help. (And they don't have a phone, and they don't answer their emails very promptly)

Others... Deaver... fuck them, they don't communicate worth a shit.
Marlin... I just don't like them, I have my reasons.
JD Fab... they will sell you shit, that doesn't fit, and then tell you that you're wrong when you're looking at the f'n part... that they redesigned... and didn't up date their web page... then when they update their page, it's with a picture they stole off your build page.

LOL... I can keep going, but I digress.


P.S. I would like to honestly thank @foxrcing07 @Speedytech7 @ToyRyd04 (you) @02hilux @nDub @Tour991 @betterbuckleup @Dan8906 @cbechtold @Bandido @Robmonster117 and a bunch of others. Over these past few years all you guys have played a significant role in keeping this build moving in the right direction. Through direct interaction or just finding answers in your build threads.