The SKINNY on skinny tires

You know, you might be on to something with that. I'd been ruling out the 35's as just being too big but the 34x10.5 Toyo's have started to look very appealing. But going bigger and then having some shrink may be a good compromise.

That said, I'm still interested to learn more about how the dynamics change when comparing differences in wheel/tire width. I've searched a decent amount and info is super sparse. I've heard a couple rumors that stretching offroad tires can lead them to being more prone to de-beading but haven't really been able to find confirmation on that. I have a good idea of how tire width on smaller/larger wheels changes dynamics when it comes to sports cars but I'm out of my element when it comes to offroad stuff.

 

Not sure if these are still available anywhere, but I bought these wheels when I first bought my truck and have had various 285/70s on them ever since. They're 8.5" wide so not quite as skinny as stock, but they will be the wheels I will be using for the 35x12.5 Nitto Recons I recently purchased. I would've bought the 35x10.5 Kendas if I didn't find such a good deal on the Nittos. I'm interested to see the clearance difference between the 2 once I get to that point. I'm already regeared on 4.56s with a manual so testing out the difference between 12.5s and 10.5s will be fun.

 

And just to be clear an 8.5" wheel was within the Kenda 33x10.5 wheel width range per Kenda's site. so the tire is still mounted within safe limits of wheel width. You could get super technical on how much it adds to being de-beading prone and the actual force needed to apply. I wasnt too worried and always carry re-beading equipment in the event I de-bead a tire when wheeling.

This is why everyone always says "it depends" when people asking if a specific wheel tire combo will rub in the hundreds of those threads. So many different factors. I do know at 32" total height of my wheels/tires I dont rub on my cab mount unless fully flexed but I keep my sway bar on 99% of the time cause shes daily driven. If I went 35s stretched to 34 I would have needed the cab mount chop.

 

Yeah, I'm also only talking about "approved" rim widths. Just wondering how the performance of the tire and any other variables change within that range as the range is often quite wide. I know with sports car tires just because it's approved or safe to mount doesn't mean it's actually a good idea to run that size.

 

I ended up having to put in 1.25" Spidertrax spacers with those wheels in order for the 35x10.5 Kendas to clear the SPC uppers at full droop. As a result of that, I was rubbing along the fender flare to the point that I ripped the front end off on both sides. I ended up trimming the metal fender and fender flares, and losing the plastic fender liners after I setup my cowl snorkel. The only rubbing I have now is against the metal fender under the battery tray /washer fluid reservoir when the wheel is stuffed. I tried preventing that with a 3/8" thick spacer for my Superbumps, but, when the tire was in contact with the fender, the bumpstop was just barely not in contact with the bumpstop. I ran several trails (including Rubicon) with it like that without too many issues (since I was driving slow), but added a 1/4" spacer a couple days ago. I haven't had a chance to flex the suspension with it yet, but I'm 90% sure that I'm going to need to either pull those off and just deal with it for the time being or have a 7/16" or 1/2" thick custom spacer made, because a simple "jack the truck up by the LCA" eyeball test makes it look like that 1/4" spacer is actually going to result in a lot of lost uptravel. I suppose it really depends on just how compressible the Superbump is in practice.

 

What’s your rims offset?

 

17x7 +4

 

I have T4R Pro wheels, Kenda’s and SPC’s and have never had any rubbing on the UCA. The wheels fit perfect and I can only see a 1.25” spacer causing more problems than it could solve. What position are your upper ball joints set to?

 

I have a very similar setup with a zero offset rim, SPC, aggressive CMC. Currently have 255/80r17 falken wildpeaks. Was planning to go with Kenda 35x10.5 or Mickey Thompson Baja boss 255/85r17. I don’t want spacers

 

It's not much of a rub on the UCA (no clue what setting it's at, and I won't have time to check until late next week), and I only noticed it after several months and a lot of driving. The outer fender and flare issues were 100% related to the spacer addition and really wasn't that big of a deal for me because I'd always planned on trimming the outer fenders and flares to match the contour of the front bumper.

The real issue is the inner fender limiting uptravel. At some point, I'll probably end up moving my OBA to a bedside cubby, move the starter battery (and a house battery) to where the OEM intake used to run, get a smaller wiper fluid reservoir, and then trim the inner fenders so I can get more room for tire movement.

 

Lose the spacers, cycle the suspension and use a hammer. You don’t have to cut anything to get full compression with this combination. Just takes some time to keep cycle and hammering and don’t forget to go lock to lock on your steering as you do it. If you don’t like the results, you can still just do all the work you were going to do anyways.

 

Bumping this thread back to the top since it came up in a separate thread again.

 

I run nitto ridge grappler in the 34x11.5 slightly taller but skinnier. I like them

 

I made the jump to pizza cutters thanks to this thread! Thanks to Jordan @Discount Tire for hooking me up with 255/80 17 Falken Wildpeaks AT3. I also took advantage of the 25% off & free shipping from Toyota’s Black Friday/ Cyber Monday deal. The rims I got are the older style 4Runner

$280 PTR20-35110-BK Toyota 2010-2024 4runner TRD 17" Matte Black Wheel PTR20-35110-BK

PTR20-35110-BK. I absolutely love this setup but I’m still battling some rubbing issues when turning. I had an alignment done at Firestone & it wasn’t out by much but they said they adjusted the toe & said it was good. The technician told me the only way to fix the rubbing is by lifting the truck. He said an alignment will never solve rubbing issues. I’m thinking BS on that because of this thread. The suspension is the stock off-road & I know others have done it this way & I really hope I can to. The only place it’s rubbing from what I can tell is in the back of the wheel well. I have heated & pushed in as much plastic as I can. It’s definitely not rubbing on the RokBlox mud flaps. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I REALLY love this setup and would like to have it with no rubbing.

Before


After


What I’ve cut & melted to date

 

Take off the mudflaps and see if that solves it. You can put them back on if it doesn’t.

 

I tried that & it didn’t make a difference. I was able to get the plastic from the fender liner shoved back a tiny bit more so maybe that will do it . Thanks for the suggestion though!

 

Alignment noob is wrong, a lift will not solve the rubbing. Look into doing a pinch weld fold. Pretty easy to do

 

Ya that’s what I thought too. Later today I’ll take a picture of what the technician wrote on the alignment paperwork for his recommendation. You guys will have good laugh about what he wrote. I’ll look into the pinch weld fold, thank you! Any chance you have a link for it? Sometimes it takes forever using the search function on here to find what you’re looking for. I appreciate the help!

 

Probably just need to push the wheels forward with alignment, no need to do the pinch weld with skinny 33s

 

Depends on wheel offset too, cant just generalize a tire size fitting without all the parts of the equation. I 100% had to do the fold the tire did slightly rub the cab mount with my 0 offset wheels.