Mechanical limited slip recommendations?

so the will computer still try to activate the "stock simulated LSD'? just curious if you will get some lights on the dash and go into limp mode,LOL.
would like to do the same to my 2016.

 

The TrueTrac will either prevent you from needing the brake limited slip, or they will work together. TrueTrac will work well until a tire is lifted. If a tire is lifted, the factory brake limited slip will actuate the brakes to help what it thinks is the stock open diff, but that actually helps the TrueTrac even more because of the TrueTrac’s torque biasing.

 

doesn't matter to me, as the 'simu-lsd' mode kicks off as soon as wheel spin is detected, so i'm long-pressing the TC system off anyways.

 

I liked the TrueTrac I put in my previous 2021 Tacoma SR 4x4, "always on" and worked well in unison with the car's stability control. Someone out there now owns a Tacoma not knowing they have that unit installed

 

I have a Detroit true track and absolutely love it. I prefer it over my Elocker in my OR I had before.

It will do anything you need it to do.

 

Do you find it "works independantly" or does the traction control also kick on when a wheel slips

 

It works seamlessly with it, most the time when it’s being used I have TC off.

You won’t notice it there until you need it if that makes sense.

 

As stated, traction control, autoLSD, A-TRAC, etc. work as normal, on top of, and in addition to any LSD. These traction control systems actually become more effective when combined with the characteristics of an LSD.

 

I had a 2000's GMC Canyon a while back. I believe it had a factory installed Eaton G80 auto locker after looking it up. While it was a mostly hands-off system, and I did get used to it and liked it, there are some quirks.

If you're in a situation with one rear wheel without traction and the other firmly planted but the diff isn't locked up yet, it's best to really slowly EASE into the throttle. Back off and go easy when you hear or feel it engage! Otherwise you cause both wheels to break traction with the ground and might dig yourself a nice hole with both wheels.

That, or all of the sudden you realize just how much of a cross slope you're on when your ass end starts heading sideways toward that cliff...

Accelerating to a certain speed disengaged it. Until you were able to reach that speed, you had a locked diff that couldn't be unlocked.

All of this was a long time ago so I hope I'm recalling the details accurately.

Practice in a safe snowy flat open space until you get the feel of it.

Interesting video showing a split track and various vehicle configurations. Notice the truck with the auto locker kick sideways when it engaged. This is much worse on slick surfaces angled to the side.

https://youtu.be/q-rQTHMVAuw?si=LA1vLrUHZ4-QT_Js

 

In my experience it's independent and then if TC kicks in it just helps it further. In sand, snow, dirt, mud ect I found both wheels are essentially locked together. I don't offroad hard enough to lift a wheel so the TT works great, I can see as I go harder a locker will make a massive difference

 

Hehe, we used to call the G80 a coo-coo clock diff. They still use it in 2500-up vehicles for chev. They work good (unless you have a power modded diesel), but I also thought they could get you in a pickle when they locked. Especially on a slant as you mentioned