reh5108's 4 Banging SHITBOX tUrBo 4x4 Build

Anything going on in here besides returning this jalopy to its rusty, east-coast roots?

 

Just arcing batteries, worn out bushings and annual bj replacements. Ya know, the usual shitbox being shitty stuff.

 

Well, pretty confident the shitbox finally shit it's head gasket. Getting a cylinder 1 misfire and was a few qts low on coolant.

Time for some decision making...

Rebuild?

Swap in used 3rz

Or a BHW tdi.

Was hoping to finally put a stand alone in this thing this winter but I guess it had other plans. Diesel makes the most sense for what I do with this thing but that's going to take significantly more time to get back on the road than putting another 3rz in.

 

Start with a scope into #1 and see if you have coolant in it. If you do, I’d yank the head and see what it tells you. Decent chance the head is cracked between the valve seat and spark plug hole. Especially if the valves ever got tight from lack of adjustment. But if the head is in good shape, I’d just throw a gasket at it

 

Planning on doing a leakdown test when I get chance. My cheap scope should work well enough to see coolant in there too. I checked valve lash probably 60k ago.

Would be nice if all it needed was a gasket and toss some arp studs in while I'm at it.

 

My 3RZ bottom end was in great condition when I tore into it the first time at 256,000 miles. But the head had cracked in two cylinders between the spark plug and valves and was letting in coolant. I'd almost put money on it being a cracked head it's a pretty common problem even without boost on these engines.

 

Could drop a used engine in for the cost of a new head. Always a gamble though.

 

I had my cracked one welded up and new seats put in it for like $500 but that was 10 years ago at this point. Currently have a donor motor in mine from a parts truck after I wasted the bottom end

 

Well, confirmed with the scope that there's water in cylinder one. Spark plug had signs of detonation as well.

 

Anyone have a preferred valve spring remove/install tool? I'm seeing two types, the c clamp style and then the punch style. The punch looks faster but reinstalling the keepers looks troublesome.


Found a used head for cheap on the other side of the mountain from me. Going to put a new gasket in along with headstuds and send it until I can gather parts for an engine swap.

 

I have this (if I can find it) and took apart an 3.4 with it... for science. If I can find it, you can have it for shipping cost. Just give me your info if you're interested in a PM.

$58 Lisle 36050 Valve Keeper Remover and Installer Kit

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-36050-Keeper-Remover-Installer/dp/B0012S61IO

 

Appreciate the offer but I will pass. Ended up ordering the c clamp style.

Made some progress on pulling things apart. Pulling this turbo setup off is not fun. Things need to be done in a particular order or there isn't access to the bolts. Most are a 6th of a turn at a time with no room for a ratchet.



A few more things to remove before the head comes off and I find out what damage there is.




Also discovered the head I picked up is warped. May make a straightener plate to bolt it down to and toss in the oven for a few hours and see how it turns out. Can't hurt right? Maybe I'll get lucky and my head will be just fine but I doubt it.

 

Well, so far I haven't found any cracks in my head. Think it may have just been a failed gasket. Small spot above the number 1 exhaust valve. I'll take it to work and toss it in the parts washer to clean it up and then dye penetrant for cracks. Hoping it's not warped either.

 

Sure looks like a crack between the valves on the photo.

 

It definitely does in that picture but I cleaned off the carbon and it looks fine.

 

Well the shitbox has been back on the road for about a month now and everything seems to be good. The reman head has some issues that needed some attention but I guess that's what I get for trying to go cheap. One of the cam cap bolts pulled the threads and the valve lash was off on a few. Nothing to serious but I was expecting to drop the head on and go. About to embark on a roughly 6000 mile trip in a week. Hopefully everything holds together.

Finally happy with my intake routing. Don't think I could make it any shorter. I played around with having the MAF in the charge pipe but was getting some erradic fuel trim so I went back to preturbo. I'm guessing it was because it was right after a 90* turn. Pre intercooler temps would get up over 150*. I was always curious what they were. The stutututu noises were kind of fun running without the recirc valve and I was surprised I didn't encounter any stalling issues when the throttle plate slapped shut.



Had a super annoying squeak coming from the back seat and found this.

Wedged a screw under it for now to stop the noise. Might throw some quick tacks on it before I leave.

Unfortunately, I had to bring the fridge back into the cab. Things are getting a little tight with a toddler and pitbull in back seat. It seems to get shaken up to much in the bed and stops cooling. Anyone else ever have this problem?



Replaced my spc ball joints again. This has been an annual item. The replacements I purchased have no zerk to grease them so I'm curious if I will have a different result. Pulled the boots off the old ones and there is lots of pitting on the ball. Not sure where the moisture is coming from to cause that. I haven't done any deep water crossings in awhile.



I was keeping a close eye on my coolant level and was losing a very small amount each drive. I'm glad it turned out to be this and not the headgasket again. Expected the radiotor to be an hour job but all the turbo stuff made it a little difficult to access some of the bolts.


And that about sums it up where things are at with this shitbox. Hopefully I don't beat it up too bad in Moab and not be able to make it to Pennsylvania.


If anyone happens to stumble upon an 05-06 Tundra limited double cab 4x4 with less than 200k on the clock please let me know. Willing to travel for a clean one.

 

I've been thinking of ditching the Spcs. I don't want to do ball joints every year. And uniballs would last longer even.


Also I've never seen maf post turbo due to the pressure difference. Has to be pre boost to be accurate. Or you could convert to map which is generally better. Not sure you can without some kind of piggy back or sand alone.

 

There are a number of people doing it with seemingly good results. Usually post intercooler and in a long straight section of pipe. I couldn't tell a difference on how it was running. It was pulling on avg 14% fuel on long term fuel trim. When in boost I was seeing afrs that were very rich, in the 10s. With it pre turbo I'm usually around 12-13 depending on how I accelerate.

 

That purple bling though. Also WHERE DID THE TODDLER COME FROM?

 

Long story lol. She's been a blessing though.