Fresh air fan clicking when orange light is off

Seems real odd. When recirculating air light is on all good, when that light is off, constant loud clicking sound. Sometimes light is off when I start the eng., though I know it was on and no clicking when I parked the truck, and clicking starts as soon as eng starts, push button to turn light on and clicking stops. Other days light is on at start up and stays on constantly, no clicking, can go a few days before light goes off and clicking starts again. Some days the truck turns that light off by itself, I'll push the button to turn light on, clicking will stop then a few minutes later the light will go off and clicking starts again, I'll punch the button, turn light on and clicking stops... What the heck is happening? why does, some days, that light go off without me punching the button, why won't it stay on when I turn it on? and what the heck is that clicking when the little orange light is off????? So aggravating

 

Most likely the recirculation actuator (Air Inlet Servo), the plastic gears strip and it will make noise.
Be aware the aftermarket ones are hit or miss on weather or not they will work and not do the same thing within a few days.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2nd-gen-information-diagnostics.784008/#post-28042158

 

OK, thanks for that, it does kind'f sound like maybe gears slipping while trying to move something. Why does sometimes the Taco turns from fresh to re-cir by itself and other days it stays the same all day. Not sure which way the orange light means, but some days the orange light stays on constantly, while other days, as today, appx. every 5 min. the light will automatically go off & clicking will start. I push button to turn light back on & clicking stops. Another 5 min. the orange light automatically goes off again and clicking re starts, over & over & over. Why so different on some days than others? I've tried it on A/C, Heat, Def., it does the same on all settings.

 

Certain years had a "feature" that it would change the recirc setting based on ambient temperature, it will also be forced on when the temp knob is set to max A/C and forced off if the mode selector is on defrost or defrost/foot unless you have done the relevant mods to disable that.

Light on is recirculate, light off is fresh air.

The recirculate actuator itself is nothing more than a motor and some gears, no feedback at all. The A/C Amplifier supplies power and ground to it at all times when the key is on and just reverses the polarity to change the direction it moves, a broken tooth at one end or the other will cause it to ratchet or click constantly whenever it is in that position.

 

OK Thanks, Any idea of how expensive should I expect to have fixed?.. Not at a dealer !!!

 

My work around was to let it close and then unplug the motor...It's quick little clip on the left side of the actuator behind the glove box...That means it's always on "outside air"

 

Whatever the cost of the part is and maybe a half hour labor, you should be able to do it yourself. I can't remember for sure but I think the screws are 5.5mm, it's right behind the glovebox.

 

Dang-it, I messed up. Ordered blend door actuator motor (Dorman # 604-332). Got glove box out, saw the motor, got the screws out and motor off, just to check, pushed the REC button and shoot, still clicking with motor out in hand. I'd took off the wrong motor, this motor faces the middle of the truck, slides on a shaft coming from the center of the truck. Looking farther I found the motor on the rec. air, it is up higher, lot harder to get to, facing the opposite direction, it goes on something coming from the right side of the truck, pointing toward the center. I can't get to those screws with tools I have, going to buy a finger ratchet, think maybe then I can reach up in there with that... Question, are both of these motors the same, just flip it the other way and slide it on a shaft? or does the one I need have a little lever or gear as I've seen on some others I've looked at... Read on another thread, here at TW, either a Dorman #604-109, a Delco #

$46 15-73513 Heating and Air Conditioning Air Inlet Door Actuator

15-73513, or a Toyota # 52494371 is what I need, but when look up and see them, they look "exactly" like what I have now, a Dorman #604-332 . I guess I can wait to see if I can get it off, but would rather know, ahead of time, what little actuator motor I will need. Any help appreciated.

 

Usually if they have different part numbers, something is different. Sometimes it is as simple as the angle or clocking of the attach bracket, bit something makes it unique. Most any manufacturer would rather reuse parts when they can

 

Well, thanks but it seems it isn't going to matter. I've spent several hrs. and so far I can't get my big stiff hand and the 1/4" dr. ratchet, nor my finger ratchet in there to get that top rear screw out. Seems I need to find a mechanic with smaller, more flexible hands for this job... I've thought about post # 6, TreeFortRichard said let the flap close then unplug the wire, outside air will be on all the time. (I'd have thought with the flap closed the outside air would be "off" all the time).. Would there be any "NOTICEABLE" drawbacks if I did that?