Unclearable code

So the OBD system is playing on and off for me now on the 95.5 4wd 2.7.
Code po115. Sensor checks as good over a couple heat ranges and line is receiving 5v. I have even replaced the sensor for kicks.
Disconnected negative battery cable, waited an hour then reseated all ECU connectors. And code returns and get this freeze frame. I have tried to clear code both by repeating this and deleting with scanner but it comes back with same freeze frame even though I have never started the engine.
Is this a code that I will have to drive a couple times to clear?
BTW, still have miss and once the vsv for egr starts clicking the OBD quits talking.

 

You diagn’d everything but the reasons dealing with wiring
IMO the ecm is rarely the issue (scratch that one off the cause list)

Temp sensor pigtail or the actual wire(s) coming off sensor

keep everyone posted
There are some BIG time electrical/wiring gurus here
(I have been assisted by these guys on my electrical issues)
I HATE electrical btw
GL

 

Based on the 284*F temperature reading of the freeze frame I would predict you have a short between wires.

If you have access to a wiring diagram pls post and I can offer assistance better. I'm not a Toyota mechanic so I don't know these trucks.

If you don't have a wiring diagram then first verify the other wire is a ground.
***Don't check this circuit with a test light, multimeter only***
My quick check for sensors/wiring like this is to unplug the sensor and watch the temp gauge then short the two terminals together. The gauge should max out in both directions depending if it's shorted or not. If that doesn't happen then you have a circuit issue.

With the key off resistance check the wires to each other at the sensor connector. You should basically have an open circuit. if you have continuity between the wires then you have a short.

If you detect a short then start with a little wire tug at the connector to make sure they aren't messed in the there. If not then a helper would be good to watch the meter as you follow the wires and shake the harness and look for a change on the multimeter. If nothing there then try unplugging the appropriate ecm plug and repeat the test.

 

I hear you on hating electrical and this truck is an old beater. Half the covers are disentigrading and taped up. I have gone through and added shield tubing and checked exposed areas for any sing of melting. But nothing is visibly melted. The pigtail was changed out this weekend when I put the new sensor in as it was no longer clicking into place.
I believe it is somehow stuck in memory as the iat temp is still the same as yesterday but it is cooler today.

 

Take the positive and negative cables off the battery and with a small guage wire, 16-18 ga jumper between the disconnected cables for an hour. This will bleed all voltage stored in all capacitors in all control units. Tell us if this works.

 

The reason your code keeps staying set is because it's an active issue. Did you wire the new connector to the same terminals they were removed from?

Typically low voltage circuits wouldn't arc and look melted. Could even be shorted via getting pinched between something or rubbed through on something

 

I was thinking about an issue I had

I installed an in-line coolant sensor in radiator hose. Sensor was for a dash temperature gauge.
I wired everything up, and gauge pegged at max. (Autometer gauge max reading was 250)
Took sensor out and was covered with electrolysis. (Like green crystals that could be wiped off easily)
After discussing with race friends, my idiot ass did not wire a ground for the sensor.
Added a ground wire…...gauge worked perfectly.

 

There are now two wires on tht sensor

 

Trying this tonight but as daylight is dwindling will have to check when I get home tomorrow but will report back.

 

resistance check of plug with key off and battery disconnected gives me a reading of 3.03 k No fluctuations when pulling and shaking wires.
Once I am out of checking voltage and continuity I am lost but can say that continuity gives no beep.

 

I don't know those trucks but 3k ohm seems like there is a corroded connection somewhere... did you do that check with the ecm plugs disconnected or just from the sensor?

 

IF i knew where all ground wire bundle locations were............i would def check those

 

Just at sensor. Only get about 1/2 hour of daylight time that I can mess with it each day right now

 

Thats understandable, you must also be up north aha

 

So this did work to clear the code as it was and now freeze frame shows current temperature.
Will have to get everything back together and see what happens.
Thank you for that suggestion, may not have fixed the primary issue but at least it confirmed my suspicions of the stuck code.

 

This apparently stopped the vsv from ticking. Usually it starts after about a minute in the on position and it has now gone 10 minutes 3 times.
Just need the time to button it back up and drive a while.

 

So far so good, cranked truck today and let it warm up. Got no codes, no miss, and vsv quit clicking. Will run a couple errands in the morning then Have 200 mile round trip to the woods for weekend and we will see what she does. I do expect to get a CIL for the cat as I can hear it rattle but we do not have emissions testing here but it’s not clogged so shouldn’t be an issue and it’s a way to test the computer. Will report back when and if (haha) when I return.

 

hells yeah!
Glamisman FTW!!!!!!!!!

 

Won’t go there yet but sure removed a roadblock to finding the underlying issues.