Switch help

I'm planning to do the DTRL off switch (stealth mode) mod.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/85326-dtrl-toggle-switch-mod-stealth-mode.html

I'd like more of a flush mount switch. Something like this:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=060-662

Unfortunately, while this switch has the look I'd like I don't think it is suited to this application. I need a switch that you press and release to open the circuit - then it stays open until you press and release again to close it.

This (The switch I linked to above) is a momentary n.o. switch. I think that means unless you press it the switch is normally open (DRTL would be off), then when you press the button they would come on only as long as you were pressing the button to close the circuit. As soon as you let go the lights would go off again. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

I can't find a flush switch like this that clicks on and off. Can anyone tell me where I might find this?

This could work:

$11 JT&T Products 2700J On/Off Round Rocker Switch

http://www.amazon.com/JT-Products-2..._4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1297026418&sr=1-4

They also have them with a little LED indicator:

$14 Best Connection - 10 Amp 12V Led Round Rocker (2701-5J)

http://www.amazon.com/JT-Products-2...7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1297026480&sr=1-17

I don't know how complex it would be to wire it so that the LED came on when the DTRL were off.

These are some cool switches, but I can't tell if they would work:
http://www.apem.com/pdf/LPI_series.pdf

Any help would be appreciated.

TL

 

Bump?

 

Hey - thanks for the reply.

I assume you mean this one:
http://www.amazon.com/JT-Products-27...026480&sr=1-17

I'll probably go ahead an order it. Does anyone know where I can find a diagram of how to wire this though? I'm not an electronics guy. In my defense - I can follow instructions. I put LEDs in my 4X4 switch back when you had to do it all yourself. Took me a week of trial and error, but finally added a variable resistor that allowed me to get the color match just right.

Thanks

 

\

Been working (slowly) on my Satoshi instead. But this too will get done.

TL

 

OK. I think I'm gonna go with this switch:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8...using_-_Ring_Illumination.html?tl=g52c343s894

It has 4 terminals on the back. Can anyone tell me which wire to put where to break the circuit?

 

Thanks a ton for the quick reply.

I saw the diagram - but I wasn't sure I understood it. Better said - I was sure I didn't understand it.

Tell me if I have this correct:
There is a row of three contacts that run vertically in the center. I use the center and the lower one (shouldn't matter which wire toes to which). Correct?

If so - why even have the third (upper) contact. On the left diagram it looks like perhaps you use that. Clearly I don't understand.

I assume the other contacts on the left and right are just for the LED.

Thanks again.

TL

 

Makes sense now. If I understand you correctly you could also connect to the top and bottom contacts and it would be closed (on) until you pressed the button.

I'm excited to do this now.

TL

 

Perfect. Thanks again.

TL

 

You're over my head. I think I understand what you're saying. This would be a way to easily bypass the switch and close the circuit if I remove the switch.


This is the fuse tap?

$16 3M Scotchlok 972 Self-Stripping In-Line Blade Type Fuseholder 18-14 Gauge (Blue) - 10 Pack

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotchlok-..._1?ie=UTF8&s=industrial&qid=1301270621&sr=8-1

The way I see it you'd need a fuse tap on both sides of where you cut the wire. Then you put a jumper b/n the two fuse taps. Correct?

 

Is this it:

Put the fuse tap on the wire and close it. That will cut the wire and break the circuit. To the terminals of my switch I'll connect short lengths of wire with male spade connectors attached. The spade connectors will go in the fuse holder - allowing the switch to close and open the circuit.

If I remove the switch I can just put a fuse in the holder and that will close the circuit - unless the fuse blows. (10a fuse ok?)

That it?

 

Got it. Thanks. I assumed the fuse holder would cut the wire itself. Hopefully I'd have figured that out - but I'm glad you clarified just in case.

Do you know what gauge wires these are so I can get the right size fuse tap?

Thanks again.

 

Thanks

TL

 

Included for reference:

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...MXEVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--&fn=972_instrs.pdf

 

Actually - I think I want this button to be kinda stealth anyhow. My not light it at all. If I did I think I would want it on only when the DTRL are off. I'm not sure that is possible.

TL

 

Hey thanks.

Am I correct that in the second pic when I press the button the DTRL will be off, but the switch light will be on - then I press again and the DTRL will come back on but the switch light will go off?

Thats what I'm after.

TL

 

Great, thanks.

The ground wire can go to the frame or steering column or something can't it?

 

Thanks.

Looked for the fuse taps at Home Depot and Pep Boys without success. I'm going to try Radio Shack this weekend.

I can order from Amazon or a few other places. Any idea who might carry them locally?

 

A few roadblocks today. Biggest one was my soldering iron died. I've got most of it done but realized my switch doesn't look like the pics. I'm not sure how to wire it.

I'm assuming the + and - are for the illumination like in the other terminal pattern. The group of 3 aren't labeled. Should I assume they are the same?



Thanks

TL

 

WHAT?! No spoonfeeding?

Just kidding. You've spoiled me up to now.

I think I understand what you're saying. I set up a small 12v battery with an LED in a simple circuit so that I could test a variable resistor when I lit my 4x4 switch. Here I just need to insert the switch in the circuit and see what arrangement works.

Do I need to put a resistor in the circuit to prevent damage to the LED in the switch? I assume there's nothing else I can damage.

Thanks again.

TL

 

Great. Thanks