Block swap.

Ok. I have a 96 4x4 3rz AT. I. Had a rod fail and couldn’t find a replacement 2.7 block. So I used a 2.4 and used all my old components including ecu. It has a miss in the 2k rpm range and sluggish to accelerate. Has anyone done this swap and do I have to have the 2rz ecu due to the difference in the block stroke? Pretty had a new rebuild lots of new sensors and spark department that would cause missing. Any info is gold thank you!!

 

I had a 2rz ecm......running a 3rz A/T without a hitch....98....

I think the ecm hand shaking with the maf sensor and O2 sensor 1 made the fuel adjustments just fine...
so I'd look elsewhere.....

If you'd just jumped from an auto to MT would/could cause problems....


I have a brandnew 2rz block and head......and its a grandpa special...
its gutless......and cant get out of its own way....

And that's on a RWD......I would never put one in a 4x4...

supposedly 2rz's work much better with a MT......many have complained about the 2rz/ auto tranny combo.....and its not just the engine.....its the auto tranny's gear ratio...
in order to get to top highway speed....its not geared for low hp or torque...

It gets 147hp.......but thats at 4000rpms....
these engines can last for ever.....but they are not winning any races...

mines a work truck....and I'm a social security recipient....so we get along...


These are very prone to head gasket leaks.....thats how alot of em here got theirs...
in rare cases where there is a gasket leak....or a crack in the head between the valves....they hydro lock and ruin the block.....

 

I tell everyone who wants to buy a replacement....dont mess around and buy from these guys...

5yr standard warranty.....upgradable to 7yrs....1 million miles...

Toyota 3RZF-E 2.7L L4 Remanufactured Engine - 8/96-8/00 - Powertrain Products

 

All BS a side....I'd hook up a scanner and run live data.....at idle and then driving around....

and see if any of the engine sensors are wacko, unplugged, bad ground on the harness somewhere, or way off, out of spec.....

If the right sensor goes wonky....the ecm usually has an emergency or limp mode.....like if the maf gets unplugged...

alot of times one or more sensors didnt get plugged in when replacing engines...
way more common than you think...bad grounds right behind that...

same with the vacuum lines and fuel evap system leaks/bad vsv valve....pvc hose leak....
even the brake booster could be a vacuum leaking sib....

assume its something stupid simple.....instead replacing this and that...and you still get no where...

Poor battery cable connection and its ground can cause misses at higher rpms...
I ran new heavy duty grounds from my neg post to both head and block....
this can be just as problematic as a vac leak or bad sensor....injectors, coils, ect need good current flow...

again simple stuff first.....