Cold Starts

7600 miles and I will say that I love not hearing valve clatter. Yeah, I know, I am a freak of nature, but if it’s preventable and majority of engine wear happens at this critical point... 29 degree, not garage kept nor a pan heater. M1 euro 0w-40

https://youtu.be/tkaj9jqa0Xo?si=zW3dM1l3lYS_5Voc

 

i agree, that is quiet and sounds great.

 

CeraTec my friend. Without it I would always hear a second or two of clatter as the oil is making its way to the heads. Fantastic product. Even after oil changes, no valve clatter. I treated my engine from 1k - 5k, current fill is just 0w-40. I treat every 15k miles or so.

 

Both my 15(2nd gen) 18 and 23 are quiet on cold start with whatever bulk syn that toyota uses.

It at warm idle where these motors are noisy.

Your oil has nothing to do with it.

 

Cold start valve clatter happens because of lack of oil in the valve train for those first few seconds during a cold start. Particularly notable in cold weather. Winter oil weight rating can absolutely affect this, but that is not the point of the point of the post. What keeps my valves super quiet for those first few seconds as the pump is pushing oil to the heads is CeraTec, not the oil itself.

 

I don't have any cold start chatter on either of my 3rd gens. They sound they most quiet at cold start. Last week temps here where in the low 20s in the morning.

I also wouldn't run 40w in the winter in a motor that is designed for 20w.

 

You probably do but can’t hear it, especially from inside the cab. I suggest you pop the hood, record a video of your cold start and you will hear those valves taping for a few seconds. Again, this happens for usually only 1 - 3 seconds right after the engine cranks.

2gr-fks is rated from 0w-20 to 15w-40. The engine is not designed for any specific oil weight. This has been covered over and over in many threads. Check page 546, paragraph 2 in your manual.

0w is the winter rating, 40 is the viscosity at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. 0w-20 and 0w-40 flow at the same rate on cold starts. I choose a heavier weight oil as I like the protection at hot temps inside the engine plus the high content of ZDDP.

 

My '20 with 63K is just as quiet with no valve clatter on cold starts or even warm idling. People keep talking about this engine being noisey or sounding like a cheap mini van and I guess I am lucky then.

 

When I cold start my truck the driver door is open as I usually warm the truck up for a bit on cold days and run back into the house.

Again. I get no "valve clatter" on either one of the 3rd gens I drive.

I'm OCD about noises in my trucks and they make plenty of odd noises, but cold start valve chatter is not one of them.

 

Damn corporate average fuel economy regulations screwing everyone up and removing the standard oil chart from the US oil manual. It’s a shame. Anyway, if you guys want a smooth running engine I absolutely recommend the product.

 

Have a look at how the valves are actuated the clearance is pretty much by design it change very little hot or cold.

 

You shouldn’t need to change the oil every 100 miles or use oil modifiers to prevent the engine from sounding like crap.

 

In reference to oil weight or CeraTec? I’m confused. CeraTec coats the internals with a ceramic based coating. It’s purpose to provide an additional layer of wear protection, particularly on cold starts. The product is not for changing the oil properties themselves but it does have a healthy amount of Moly. It’s the ceramic based coating that I’m after and why users rave about it.

This guy did a pretty good review and I can testify how it also reduces vibrations and gives a smoother idle on my 2gr-fks. We all know the idle on this engine is not the best… lol

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/tech...era-tec-friction-modifier-my-skoda-laura.html

 

there are no oil passages that deliver oil directly to the valves. It's just a valve sitting in a valve guide.

You're thinking of bearings like at the crankshaft or connecting rods. they each have a oil passage that delivers oil directly to the bearing surface.

On startup the timing chain can rattle for a second if the chain tensioner is weak. Then oil pressure shows up to help push on the tensioner, and the noise quiets down..

 

You're wasting your money.

 

Dude, the fact that you thought this engine was designed for 20w speaks for itself. Feel free to part from this discussion unless you have anything intelligent to contribute.

 

I had never heard of ceratec and while looking into it found this in a mustang forum. Tacomaworld - "The color temperature of my dome light isn't right, should I sell it?". Apparently the rest of the world - "My engine is a year old but only burns a quart per 5,000."

 

The fact you have no idea how the valvetrain works in these motors, and that your Magic fluid quiets them down speaks for itself.

 

An engineer should be able to explain to everyone how the valves get their oil supply

We're waiting

 

The product coats the internals with a ceramic based material, this is the point. The protection as already on the metal itself and is not reliant on the oil supply. Yes, it’s an oil additive in that it goes in the oil, but it uses the oil as a delivery system to coat the internals. I hope this makes sense. I would not recommend something that I don’t believe in and have used for many different vehicles over the past 10+ years. It works and everyone that uses it give great reviews. Try it for yourself, don’t take my word for it.