SR to OEM LED Conversion Harnesses V2 (Most current thread Dec 2023)

I am starting a new thread for these, just to clear up a few things and try to get all the relevant information condensed a little.

These are the V2 harnesses for adding OEM headlights to the SR and SR5 with halogen headlights.

They are $200 shipped in the States. I can do Canada as well, but shoot me a PM first.

If you have a TRD trim truck, hit up @daveeasa or visit his website Headlight | FBC Harness Solutions (square.site) for the harness you need. These are for the trucks without the "L" shaped LED DRL.

The V2 is universal for these trims (SR, SR5, Limited, Trail Edition), fully plug and play, simple to install, and work regardless if you have AUTO or DRL on the headlight stalk switch.

BENEFITS of the V2:
-Universal, no need to disable anything.
-Will retain the functionality of the stalk switch. They will turn on and off with the appropriate stalk setting. Unlike running a fuse to the fuse box, where the DRL will be on whenever the truck is on, regardless of stalk setting.
-They will dim when the low beams are on (like they are supposed to).
-easy to install. If you can match colors and put the square block in the square hole, you can install these.
-The electromechanical components are replaceable. If you need to replace something down the road, and I am not around anymore for some reason, you can. The relays are obtainable (though sometimes for more money than they should be) and the timers can be ordered straight from the manufacturer. He will even program them for you. You will just need to splice the new ones in, which isn't hard.

CONS of the V2:
-While they do perform like stock TRD as far as function, they do have a slight delay. This delay is about an additional second (0.8s to be exact) when switching the DRL on. So going from off to DRL/AUTO, there will be an additional delay. And when going from low beam back to park, there is the same additional delay. I am saying additional because the stock TRDs with these have a delay as well, they are a switchback after all, so it is built into the headlight. These have additional logic though, so it takes that extra second. It isn't very noticeable though, and I don't think anyone has ever complained about it. I just want to be as transparent as possible here.
- Price. I know these are pricey at $200 for the set, I get that! If I could make them cheaper, I would. Hopefully my reputation precedes me here that I try to off the stuff I make at a fair price. Dave and I have discussed this quite a bit, and we are seeking ways to lessen the cost. But in order to make them where I am comfortable with the durability and serviceability, that price is where I am at for now.
-These usually require a set of resistors to function correctly (they are included). More on that below.

WHAT IS INCLUDED: For $200 you will get (2) harnesses. One for the drivers side, one for the passengers side. They are the same thing, just color matched to their respective sides. (2) resistors (VLED VLR25 resistors). I like their stuff as it is well made and has great heat dissipation. Also, if you have one fail (it's rare, but it can happen), they are easy enough to order from VLEDs direct. You will also get the necessary hardware to mount these up by the fender, and caps for the unused side marker plug just to keep it clean if you ever need to use it again.




Okay, before I get to the FAQ, let's talk resistors and hyperflash. First, let me just say that these trucks are super temperamental when it comes to hyperflash. Like stupidly so. Usually when swapping from an incandescent bulb to an LED, you just replace the load of the bulb with the same load of resistor, and you're good to go. These get a little more complicated though.
The biggest issue seems to be the ECU is looking for the resistance right away, as in faster than the 20ms it takes the relay to switch over. So if there isn't immediate resistance, it will sometimes hyperflash. Sometimes. Not all the time, but sometimes. Why only sometimes? I HAVE NO IDEA! It's frustrating for sure. But by adding a small load (the VLR25) of 25 Ohms, it adds 0.55A at 13.8V, or about 7.6W. This has proven to be a sufficient load to stop hyperflash. If you are running additional resistors for taillight turn signals or anything, there is a chance that it can create too much load. Is how this manifests itself is the turn signal will flash one single time, then not at all. If this is the case, usually reducing the load on the taillights (or eliminating it all together) can correct the issue. 6 Ohm resistors are very popular for LED bulb swaps, so going to a 15 or a 25 will usually be enough (remember, the higher the number of Ohms, the less the resistance, so a 25 Ohm is less load than a 6 for example). If this is the case, I am happy to work with you on it, but I do want to warn everyone of the possibility of this. In theory, load is load, and running 6 Ohm on the back should mean you don't need anything on the front or vise versa, but these trucks are not only really sensitive to the amount of load, but also the location as far as front to back. So if this is the case for you, feel free to shoot me a PM (or ask here) and I will try to walk you through any potential issues. You may know that Dave and I were running into some issues on some trucks for a bit (which is why Dave doesn't want to deal with these anymore, but I can't blame him). Almost all of the issues that I was made aware of though were being caused by either A) using a 15 Ohm resistor, or B) having additional resistors in the rear. There have been a couple relay issues, and even a few timers gone bad, but those are thankfully rare. I just want to make sure everyone understands the resistor issue and potential complications. But also know that so far, it isn't an issue we haven't been able to correct, and I hope it never will be.

HYPERFLASH TLDR: There is a chance that you can still get hyperflash, and having additional resistors in the rear can complicate it. While using the supplied resistors eliminates the VAST majority of hyperflash, you may get it every once in a great while if the conditions are right (I see it on my truck maybe once or twice a year, and I drive 15K miles/year). It is a temporary thing and has always corrected the next time I use the turn signal.

 

Ordering-

I don't have a website or marketplace or anything, so shoot me a PM or reply here and I will get back to you.
I tend to do these in batches, so sometimes it can be a bit.
I accept PayPal, Venmo, or Zelle. If you don't have any of those, shoot me a PM and let's see what we can figure out.
I will try to keep a running list on here, but that might not be the most current thing either. I don't collect money until a few days before these are ready to ship. That gives everyone a few days to reply, and me a few days to pack them up. So the way I have always done it is send out notices when it is close to time with the instructions.

 

FAQ-

Now, for the FAQ and related info:

-HOW MUCH FOR A SET?: $200.

-HOW TO ORDER?: PM me on here is the easiest way. I take PayPal, Venmo, and Zelle. Whatever you are most comfortable with.

-WHAT IS THE WARRANTY?: On the actual harness itself, lifetime (mine or yours, whichever ends first I suppose). On the relays, timers, and resistors, one year. These are third party parts, but I have chosen them for their dependability. But stuff can fail.

-WHAT IS YOUR RETURN POLICY?: No returns or refunds. I will exchange anything that is bad for sure, no problem. I am also happy to troubleshoot with you, no sweat. But ultimately, I am one guy making these in my laundry room. Your purchase goes to fund the next round of parts, and in order to keep the price as low as I can, I don't make a lot on these. So if you are buying a set in anticipation of getting headlights, and change your mind, I encourage you to resell them here on the buy/sell/trade forum. Also, know that I test each one on my own truck, so I am not sending anything that shouldn't work if it sits for a while before you get headlights. If by chance this is you, and something does go wrong after waiting for a while, by all means PM me and I will do what I can to make it right.

-I WOULD ALSO LIKE MY GRILLE LIGHTS/BACKLIGHTS/WHATEVER LIGHTS TO BE CONTROLLED WITH A DRL SIGNAL. IS THIS POSSIBLE?: Yes. I can do that with these as well. There is an additional wire that runs from headlight to headlight involved. Also, depending on what you are lighting up, you may need an additional relay. I will approach these as special order, so hit me up for pricing and lead times.

-WILL THESE WORK WITH AFTERMARKET BRAND X HEADLIGHTS?: Unless those are direct replacements for OEM LED, probably not. I do make SR to TRD conversions, and have made quite a few one offs for Morimoto and some other brands, so shoot me a PM if you aren't sure what you need.

-WHY SO EXPENSIVE?: Parts and labor. These are not just wires with different plugs on the end like the TRD ones. These use resistors, relays, and timers to drive it. All those cost, and I like to make a little for my time as well. I am an unapologetic defender of capitalism, but I am not getting rich.

-CAN I PREORDER?: No. I don't take money until these are ready to be boxed up. I work in small batches, so the availability can be random. I do keep a list if you are looking to get a set though. It's not a guarantee but shoot me a PM, and I'll add you. Then, when the batch is close to ready, I will give you a few days heads up to make sure you still want them. I go first come, first served for that. Sorry, I don't have a website or anything, so that is the fairest way I can think of.

-HOW MANY OF THESE WILL BE AVAILABLE?: I am aiming for 20 sets every month and a half or so? I am committing myself to 50 sets for now. After that, I will see how I am feeling. The time spent on these combined with trying to get parts and stuff gets to be a lot for one guy who still works a regular job. But I am committing myself to 50 sets, so don't worry if you miss out on a batch. I'm sure I'll keep going, but who knows. I will however always be available to troubleshoot or answer any questions, so no worries there.

Hopefully that covers everything? Feel free to ask anything below, or PM me.

 

Now, on to installing these harnesses.

First thing I always recommend is testing the new headlights and harnesses before tearing the truck apart. So run through steps 1-6 real quick. They are super easy, and worth the extra few minutes. If you get hyperflash during this quick test, I wouldn't worry. When you do the "official" install and add the resistor, that should go away. Also, you may want to use some dielectric grease, but it isn't necessary.

PIC0-coming soon

After the initial testing, go ahead and install the headlights themselves. There are some really good instructional threads and videos (I like Chloe Kuos video, but there are a lot more out there as well)
https://youtu.be/lPvuQG-y4os

1. You will notice four plugs going to your existing headlights. Those plugs are Low beam (black plug with the green inside), High beam (black plug with the yellow inside), Turn/DRL (grey plug with 3 wires) and side marker (grey plug with 2 wires).



2. You can take the supplied caps and snap those into the side marker plug. That plug won't be getting used anymore. So cap it and zip tie it somewhere just to keep it from flopping around.

PIC2 (coming soon)

3. Next comes the turn/DRL plug. This will go to the grey plug on the harness. It can only go in one way, and the colors should match (I use blue with a white stripe on the passengers side where OEM is blue, but that will be the only difference). Make sure it clicks in tight.



4. Now on to the low and high beam. The low beam will have two wires on the truck (red and white/black stripe on the drivers side; blue and white/black stripe on the passengers side), but it will only have one wire on the harness. This is how it is supposed to be, so don't worry. Just make sure when you are plugging them in, the red goes to red, and the blue to blue. The wires on the harness are labeled "LOW" in addition to color matching. The low beam is also designated with a green band on the plug.



5. The high beam with be close to the same thing, but there are two wires on the harness for high beams. Once again, make sure you are on the right plug (yellow inside) and using the harness plug with the wire marked "HIGH" as well as being marked with a yellow band. On the passengers side, the wires will be yellow and white/black stripe, so make sure the colors line up. The drivers side is where most mistakes are made, so pay close attention. The wires on the drivers side are white and white/black stripe. So make sure the wires with the black stripe match each other.


Again, make sure to verify it is striped wire to striped wire. It is a little less noticeable in the truck.



6. Now, the last plug on the harness goes to the headlight itself. It can only go in one way, so just pay attention to the tabs on the connector.

PIC6 (coming soon)

7. If you want to use the resistors that are included (I recommend you do, see first post where I babel on about hyperflash), these will need to mounted to a flat metal spot, with at least an inch of clearance from wires or hoses. They can get hot. Here is the spot where I mount mine:



The passengers side is little hard to make out. But it is behind the reservoir.


8. Almost done! Now we just need to deal with the relay on the harness. I have included a couple of U-nuts. The best spot I have found is on the fender, just behind the headlight. Here:



Now you can take the supplies screw, add the lock washer and a regular washer, and insert it through the hole on the mounting tab of the relay. Then add the black tube spacer and the other washer. Now you can take a 4mm hex key (allen wrench) and screw that whole thing into that U-nut. No need to go crazy, just snug enough to flatten the lock washer will do it.




9. Lastly, there is a timer hanging from that relay (black heat shrank thing on a plug). Use another zip tie to secure it. It can be most anything you want, it's just best to not have it bouncing around.



That's it for the install! Recheck them to make sure everything is still working and go out and enjoy your new headlights!

 

Troubleshooting

 

SPECIAL NOTES?

 

@Puppypunter v2 harness has been nothing short of amazing. Have had absolutely zero issues first 8 months. Worth the money IMO, harness is quality and you can’t beat the output of the oem led’s

 

Thank you! I’ve been meaning to do this post forever. I never really did a good thread on these, so hopefully future buyers will have better guidance than you guys got

 

If I was interested in changing my 2020 SR5 to the OEM LED headlights what are the part numbers for the Oem headlight assemblies needed?

Also in my case I have the Meso customs total tail stage one installed with resistors back there already that look like the same ones in your kit. would all that be compatible?

 

I have a 2020 sr5 and I used the links from Chloe
https://www.sparksparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-led-headlight-left-8115004290?c=az0x


https://www.sparksparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-led-headlight-right-8111004290?c=az0x


I also have the meso stage 1. When I used the headlights without the included wiring resistor, I would occasionally still get the hyper flash. But after installing them, they have ran completely normal like factory . No hyper flash, nothing weird.

 

Johnny, you ever get around to assembling my modified harness?

 

Always appreciate your stuff. Still sitting on my "Legacy" v1 version

 

Hi,
Just posted my harness for sale for a sr5

link: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sr5-led-headlight-conversion-wiring.840927/#post-30093733

 

Am I finally in the right place? Ive found the current thread!

Are these still being made @Puppypunter ?

 

You found it! I do still make them. I can send you a PM. If you don’t see it, just reply here

 

These still being made? I’ll take one if so. Feel free to PM!

 

Hello Dave I have a 2021 trd sport and got the led Trd Pro oem led headlights # 81150-04300 left and 81110-04300 I have (5) plugs on the truck harness from the projector and only (4) on the regular after market harness can you please advise Thanks!

 

Wrong thread, this is the SR which is significantly different thanks to Toyota’s decisions.

TRD thread is here:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-led-headlight-conversion-harness.719405/#post-25609790