Testing chipped Key 2012 4Runner

There must be a way to test chipped keys??

Will a strong enough magnetic field cause them to be fried ?

I have had credit cards get zapped they would no longer be able to be read.

All 3 keys had been working now 2 of them will crank but fail to start the engine.

I am going to have the working one cloned ( $120.00) so at least have 2 that work .

Any ideas would be a great help

Any schematics would also help to I track down a hard Copy of the FSM

 

Security light will flash until a registered key is inserted. You don’t even have to turn the key. If it flashes, the key isn’t programmed

 

Yes a locksmith or any shop/mobile mechanic that makes keys as a service would likely have the tools to read/write keys but if they won't start the vehicle most likely they are dead.

I would have to assume since it's an electronic device a strong enough magnetic pulse could kill it although just having it next to a magnet shouldn't.

Just note that a cloned key as far as the immobilizer knows is the same key which is fine as long as you don't have a situation where the immobilizer has to be reset or replaced as you typically need to register a minimum of 2 keys to set up an immobilizer.

What diagrams are you looking for? Immobilizer I'm asuming?

 

Thanks but what would cause 2 keys that worked to no longer work was the real question?

How to keep it from happening again?

I would love to know just what stupid thing i must have done . So as to not do it again.

 

Thank You Sir .
The immobilizer needs to go away for good . With only one key left my luck that might get fried.

I never gave it a thought walking into the welding lab with the 2 keys enough magnetic flux to cause arc blow would very easy fry the keys

As the 4Runner came with nothing that will unlock the doors but to unlock the drivers door and use the master switch or leave the windows open.

Thank you again!!

 

Well it's not really possible to eliminate it, I don't think I'd want to anyway. Factory immobilizers have proven to be quite reliable for the most part and while alot of the older ones can be relatively easy for would be thieves to get around if they have the right equipment they do add another layer of protection against theft vs a vehicle not equipped with one.

Shouldn't cost too much to get a couple keys cut and programmed to the vehicle (as long as you don't go to the dealer), with the right scan tool you can program them to the truck yourself unlike alot of the newer stuff where you have to be a registered locksmith with an LSID to access security functions.

Yea EMF from welding in close proximity to the keys would likely be enough to render them inoperable.
If you are going to be carying them with you you may consider putting them is some sort of RF blocking container/pouch to shield them from the EMF, RF blocking key holders have become readily available now as vehicles have transitioned to smart keys and the vulnerabilities they have.

 

This post on t4r has an FSM that should have the info you are looking for. There's a little bit of a learning curve to navigating it. I doubt there is much of a difference between the 2012 and the 2016 therwise I saw some eBay listings for the books, around $900 all together iirc

 

From n

From now on the key stays in the ignition that way nothing should cause it to get fried .

i will figure out how to by pass the stupid thing as all I have is the flashing light .

No way to turn it on or off .

Comes down to which wires to cut out.

Till I get it able to be inspected I should have enough time to figure it out.

 

If all keys no longer work, then I'd do the immobilizer reset by jumping the dlc3 (odbII port) pins. I think it was pins 4 and 13 for 30 minutes

But the 3rd working key is kinda throwing me off, I wouldn't want to risk something where now none of the keys work. Depends how much you trust the reset

 

There isn't a way to remove/bypass the immobilizer that I know of like you can with GM VATS and Passkey systems because the PCM sends a challenge to the Immobilizer module each time the vehicle is started and if it sees no response or an incorrect response it will not allow the vehicle to start, not as simple as cutting some wires and tying in a resistor or.

The only thing I know of you could do which wouldn't really bypass it but would effectively neuter it would be to attach a transponder from a working key to a spot near the transponder key coil around the lock cylinder, as long as that transponder stays there you can start it with any key that turns the lock cylinder.

That reset is to register communication between the Immobilizer module and PCM when one or the other is replaced, it does not reset/register keys.

 

I tried that already for some reason it still would not work ,

It needed the key in the lock cylinder to start.

I will get it figured out or do all these V8 engines have the same immobilizer I could go back in time far enough .

 

I'm not sure I follow what your trying to accomplish?
Your asking whether or not the immobilizer that prevents the engine from starting can be bypassed/eliminated are you not?

 

Use a engine harness and ECM from before all this chipped key progress started.



i have decided what I am going to do .

Completely strip the wiring harness out of the whole vehicle .

Start from scratch .

Last night one of the door switches decided it was no longer willing to stay closed .

The door ajar alarm blared till I disconnected the battery.

 

Good luck with that.
I'm pretty sure all 4 runners from that era (except maybe the 4cyl ones) have an immobilizer.

Door ajar switch is pretty simple to troubleshoot, they do nothing more than ground the wire coming from the body ECU when the door is open.

 

What about Tacoma's or Tundras ??
No reason it needs to stay a 4runner.

 

As far as I know all 2nd and 3rd gen V6 Tacomas have an immobilizer, not sure about Tundras but I suspect they do.

Seems like alot of trouble to me just to avoid getting a couple keys cut and programmed.

 

Thank you for all the help!!
100 % my fault being in a spot and needing a vehicle in hind site I should of bought a Ford.

That is the thing my dealer could not program new keys due to parts of a remote start system in the vehicle.

They quoted all new parts to be able to.program new keys . NEW ecm starting and engine harness a tad to.expensive .

So it is sitting till I get the Hard copy of the FSM and educate myself in this year.

I admit I was really stupid to trust a sales person. After it was inspected in the dealers shop.

Seems some junk yardlng ls in my future.

Worse case a it could become a 2000 Tacoma . With the manual transmission that needs some serious thought.