How much should I demand from a dealer who screwed up?

I have never met a dealer who hasn't "lost money" on a deal. Its a miracle they are all in business considering the charity work they are doing.

 

Convenience sells a lot of stuff... at higher prices.

But people that take the time to negotiate prices have more money to spend on their kid's educations, on their retirement, and they get the benefit of cultivating some self confidence that translates into other aspects of life.

 

I love this place.

 

My other vehicle is a Tesla Model Y, I love that vehicle. A computer that goes down the road quickly and efficiently, it cost .08 cents per mile for electricity, (it would be a lot less but electric rates here in the Bay Area are horrible) my 2019 Passport was .25 to .30 per mile for gas alone, not to mention normal maintenance.

Tesla's have no maintenance schedule unlike all ICE vehicles, Tacomas get oil changes every 5000 miles among other items which add to the per mile down the road cost.

That said, Tires, windshield wipers and windshield wiper fluid is it for the Model Y. And since I have a lead foot the tires do get worked out a bit more that a "normal" ICE vehicle, that's why I get 80,000 mile tires so when I wear them out before the warranty I get a pro rated discount on my next set.

The buying experience was all online and there were no options except for Long range or Performance models for about $5000 more than long range.

No "dealer" to deal with was fantastic!

 

That's just it. I already have my hot rod for fun and the Tacoma for house errands. The idea of picking up an EV for a daily, being able to charge it at home and not having to wait in line at the Costco gas station is certainly appealing.

 

I must admit, it was a little strange going to the Costco gas before my trip inside, I haven't missed it, but for my Taco I will get use to it again.

I was driving 2500-3000 miles a month for the last 30 years for work so I was filling up my various vehicles 2-3 times a week, I don't miss that!

Pulling my Y into the garage and plugging it in is so much better!

 

Dealer doesn’t really owe you anything, they found you a truck is a reasonable amount of time all tho the lost “forgot” about you 1 st order. Let them quote you on your trade, if you don’t like the numbers get your deposit back and walk.

 

also side note carmax is the only obe that will respect the offer , i believe up 7days

 

loyalty...hahahaha.

 

Flow BMW in Winston Salem was/is great.
They never jerked me around, their service department was always very transparent.

I took two cars back there for warranty work (airbag recalls) even though it is a 1.5 hr drive for me vs Performance in CHill/South point (now) which was much closer - Performance was awful!

 

way too many rational answers here.

KICK THEIR TEETH IN. STEAL THEIR KIDS ENTIRE CHRISTMAS, THE TREE, ALL THE PRESENTS, EVEN THE FIREPLACE AND STOCKINGS.

CHAIN YOURSELF TO THEIR DESK WHILE WEARING A BANANA COSTUME AND DEMAIND TO BE UPGRADED TO A PAIR OF TUNDRA'S FOR THE ORIGINAL PRICE

CALL EVERY SINGLE DAY AND ASK IF THEY REMEMBER YOU, DON'T WAIT FOR AN ANSWER, QUICKLY HANG UP, CALL BACK, AND ORDER A PIZZA

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmvSgvy7a34

 

laughing about the credit union “expert”. 15 years experience with 10 in new car sales with 5 as internet director (all domestic except for 18 months with Mazda). I’ve since left the game but am very knowledgeable about the ins and outs.

• Invoice is a real figure, if the vehicle is traded from another dealer you don’t get the holdback on it so invoice is your dead cost on payable gross commission before pack
• Dealers don’t get better pricing for getting together with others and doing a group buy. Where the fuck did he make that up from?
• In domestic world (Mazda too back in day) there are volume bonuses paid retro per vehicle. So let’s say Ford sets our December goal at 150 units. If you hit goal you receive $300/unit retro to 1st. If you hit 125% it goes to $500/unit, etc. These numbers are made up but usually it was $300/500/700/900 for stair step program.
  
• Dealers absolutely make money selling at or below invoice in a unit in stock not traded for. I advertised Super Duty trucks $1,800 back of invoice. We had a high dealer handling fee of almost $700, plus we pre-loaded with some BS theft for $355 ($283 profit on that). So even though I’m giving all holdback on the truck (maybe making $250 on a loaded unit) I’m still making $1,000 from my D&H. Then Ford throws out rebates for captive financing which will yield another $1,200 flat to $2,400 in reserve (possibly more depending on amt financed).
  
• So on my $70,000 Super Duty I’m making $1,000 on the front before monthly stair step, and another $1,200-2,400 on the back end. Steal their trade, sell a warranty it’s all extra.
  
• Advertising costs big bucks though. I was spending $30,000/month just on internet advertising. Then you have commissions paid out, having to pay for the finance guys coke habit, etc. shit adds up but in the end the owners are still making insane money.
  
• We sold 150 new/100 used a month and made 1.0- 1.5m in sales gross a month. I made okay money, $12-18k month. Finance guy killed it making about $25-40k month. These are top guys, most dealer personnel don’t make this dough. Average income for sales is 7 units/month and $50-60k year.

 

Yeah so he kind of sounded like what you are saying here which pretty much I really don't understand and it sounds totally confusing - so if try in a year or two repeat what you say here . . . yep I will get it all jacked up and then he would probably react the same as you. But I do remember he defiantly was a finance guy for a Benz dealership. I don't think he said invoice wasn't a real number but I'm pretty sure he said invoice is not necessarily what the vehicle ends up costing the dealer. And it did seem he was saying there were group buys or whatever and I'm pretty sure there were dealer incentives from the manufacture. But yeah I tried to be clear I really didn't understand how it all worked, which is why I asked. And again I'm sure I jacked up what he told me. Again I think you tried but honestly it really didn't clear up the sales process and what in the end a vehicle cost the dealer - just more convoluted confusing ins and outs and cryptic jargon . . . . it's why most people hate dealerships because they never give it to you straight. It's like some of the charges you point out - they say I giving you the truck at below invoice or whatever like they are really giving you a deal and then the rip you off with bogus extra charges.

 

Lol

 

No.... The salesman is Named Dakota. He works at a toyota dealer in North Dakota

 

Dammit, I had Durango on the mind.

 

I'm sorry there is roughly 0% chance you got 25% off new tacoma. A 40k MSRP new taco for 30k OTD?

 

There is a lot of ways dealers make money, mostly not the way you would think. The front end gross(what they pay vs sell car for) is minimal. Japanese cars have very low margins. The money is made on trade ins, adding points in loan(you get approved at 6.3% dealer signs you up at 7.9%) and selling warranties and service contracts which typically have about 100% markup. Yeah it's crazy to think they may make 800 selling you the truck but then 4k in loan and another 3k in warranty profit. Hold back is typically 2-3% of invoice given to dealer from manufacturer for moving in stock vehicle.

Then there is bonus from manufacturer which can be big money. It has lots of tiers and metrics that include things like % of new car surveys completed, service department customer service surveys, parts special ordered etc. If stars align a half decent size dealer can hit over 100k/month in manufacturer bonus. Last audi dealer I was at got 400k for top tier performance for a quarter.

Service department typically makes as much profit as sales and finance at a much higher margin.

TLDR; everyone negotiates the truck price, it's the trade, finance and warranty/service contracts that you should focus on. Shop your own finance through credit unions to keep them honest and dont buy that 9k package of wheel and tire warranty and 100k extended warranty at full price.

 

I never said MSRP... I said, "Dealer asking price." Of course that was more than MSRP. After you subtract deal add-ons my deal was about 15% under MSRP.

And per your following post... People shouldn't be trading in, financing, or buying extended warranties if at all possible, and certainly not at the dealership. Sell you own older vehicle, find your own financing or pay cash, and extended warranties are bogus on their face, and terribly expensive for what you get.