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1998 Taco… electrical system not working at all

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by jmreeder, Dec 27, 2023.

  1. Dec 27, 2023 at 12:19 PM
    #1
    jmreeder

    jmreeder [OP] Active Member

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    Hey guys, my 98 regular cab won’t even budge when I turn the key in the ignition. Won’t try to start, no lights come on, nothing happens whatsoever. The batter is fully charged, and I never had a battery light come on on the dash. Any ideas what could be happening? Is it a wiring issue or blown fuse?
    Thanks in advance for your replies
     
  2. Dec 27, 2023 at 12:23 PM
    #2
    fxntime

    fxntime Well-Known Member

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    Check grounds [at frame and battery] and check main fuse. No one jumped it with the cables backward did they?

    You can check the + side also at the battery but it's usually the grounds.

    Or, you have a dead battery if you didn't check that first. I mean actually hook up a voltmeter, not just charge it and think it's good]
     
    jmreeder[OP] likes this.
  3. Dec 27, 2023 at 12:55 PM
    #3
    jmreeder

    jmreeder [OP] Active Member

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    Checked with volt meter and it’s at 12. Fully charged, nothing happens at each key location turn. Headlights don’t come on, no dashboard lights, horn doesn’t work, ignition doesn’t try to start the truck at all
     
  4. Dec 27, 2023 at 12:56 PM
    #4
    OpeCity

    OpeCity Well-Known Member

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    Did you check the actual battery connections? Not just the terminal voltage?
     
  5. Dec 27, 2023 at 12:57 PM
    #5
    ace_10

    ace_10 Well-Known Member

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    If you're putting a decent voltmeter on the battery and you're getting 12.0v... you're not "fully charged."
    You should be seeing 12.8 at the very lowest.

    But that's not a reason for no lights, etc...
     
  6. Dec 27, 2023 at 1:12 PM
    #6
    jmreeder

    jmreeder [OP] Active Member

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    upload_2023-12-27_14-11-22.jpg
    upload_2023-12-27_14-11-39.jpg
    it’s right at 12.8 without switch on, and 11.2 with switch on, using this Schumacher volt meter
     
  7. Dec 27, 2023 at 9:01 PM
    #7
    Glamisman

    Glamisman Well-Known Member

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    In the engine compartment fuse box there is a large amperage fuse, some trucks its 60A, others 80A, anyway I would check that first. If it is open it bolts in from underneath the fuse holder… not too difficult of a job. The problem is this is a dealer only fuse and they NEVER stock it.
     
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  8. Dec 28, 2023 at 7:55 AM
    #8
    leid

    leid Well-Known Member

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    Yes, that ALT fuse in the engine bay fuse box is critical. If the battery cables are all tight and not corroded, I think you are probably correct. The ALT fuse is really THE power distribution fuse. If it blows due to reverse-current/over-current/fault/etc., you are left with a dead Tacoma with no way to get power out of the battery or alternator. About the only system that might work is the emergency flashers, but I have not verified it. Virtually none of the normal electrical systems will be powered including the dash lights, which is actually a pretty good indicator that you have blown the ALT fuse. But those FLM type ALT fuses are readily available from NAPA/RockAuto/AutoZone/O'Reillys/etc. Both Bussman and LittelFuse make them in variety of sizes. The Bussman FLM80 or LittelFuse PAL 180 is the 80A fuse, which is probably the most common size in the pre-2000 Taco including the OP's '98 (hint). If the 100A alternator from the optional tow package on the early 4 banger Taco was retrofitted, then you need the Bussman FLM120 or LittelFuse PAL 1120 which is the 120A fuse. In any case, the correct size will be written on the old fuse. They are about $3-$6 depending on where you get them. I now have a spare FLM fuse in the glovebox to help keep my '97 V6 Taco 4x4 wheeling. .02

    EDIT: OEM Toyota ALT fuse part numbers: They are available from Toyota online vendors.

    40A: 90982-08257
    60A: 90982-08202
    80A: 90982-08203
    120A: 90982-08254
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2023
    jmreeder[OP] and ace_10 like this.
  9. Dec 28, 2023 at 8:15 AM
    #9
    LanceRN

    LanceRN Well-Known Member

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    Bought mine from Amazon. I did upgrade my alternator, so that's why it's a 120 amp, but there are many other amperages available. Amazon.com: New 927-2120 9272120 120AMP Slow Blow Fuse - Compatible Replacement for 90982-08274 90982-08254 18980-00059 18980-00060 MU840023 J00167099 8JS740026-271 9098208274 9098208254 1898000059 etc : Automotive
     
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  10. Dec 29, 2023 at 12:36 PM
    #10
    jmreeder

    jmreeder [OP] Active Member

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    It was a battery terminal new truck owner here and this is pretty much all new to me. Thanks for your guys’ replies
     
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  11. Dec 29, 2023 at 3:02 PM
    #11
    ControlCar

    ControlCar My Moto: Help & Learn…period.

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    Clock Volt meter/LSPV Delete/Hyundai 16’s/FP gauge/after 9months of wrenching ZERO oil leaks
    can of Pepsi to the rescue!!!!
     
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  12. Dec 30, 2023 at 11:46 AM
    #12
    badchad

    badchad New Member

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    quick and easy fix :thumbsup:
     
  13. Dec 30, 2023 at 11:49 AM
    #13
    Clearwater Bill

    Clearwater Bill Never answer an anonymous letter

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    Keep in mind this is not a 'truck thing'. Almost every conventional battery start vehicle can have the exact same issue.
     
  14. Dec 30, 2023 at 12:28 PM
    #14
    Jakerou

    Jakerou Well-Known Member

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    I recommend cleaning with a purpose made battery cleaner. This will neutralize the acid. Pepsi is acidic and won’t be a long term fix.

    Then coat with battery terminal grease.
     
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