Have You Ever Tried the Search Function Build Thread

Awesome build man. I saw your build thread title and read your first post and audibly laughed out loud. Couldn't have said it better myself and appreciate you calling that bs out. One of my biggest pet peeves of forums.

I also decided to start a build thread for my truck for very similar reasons as you. I wanted a place that I could provide some (hopefully) useful information to others & document my truck's build progress & outings I take it one in a single location. Thanks for the laugh & looking forward to following along!

 

So I made a big mistake. I have heard people talking about the bad design on the cam bolts. I was fully aware that the prevailing wisdom stated that you need to take the LCA bolts out of your new truck and grease or anti-seize them or they will rust solid. I figured I had time. My truck is a 2019 and until recently I had a winter beater. I just installed my new Iron man UCAs that were sent to me because of a ball joint recall and I am getting new tires so I decided to it was time to address the cam bolts. I had a previous alignment shop flatten my cam tabs, so I planned to weld a bead behind them to reinforce the thin tabs while my lower control arms were out and I didn't have to worry about melting the bushings.
I had Thursday and Friday off so I scheduled new tires and an alignment for Friday and started work on the truck Thursday morning. I found out pretty quick that I was in trouble. The sleeve between the bolt and the bushing on the front cam bolts had fused to the inside of the bushing. An air hammer helped me get the driver side out, but I had to cut out the passenger LCA. This meant I needed to order a passenger side front bushing and new front cam bolt with the sleeve. The other bolts were good enough to restore with a wire wheel and grinder.
While I was waiting for parts I cancelled my alignment for Friday and did my best to clean off the grease and wool wax covering my LCA brackets. Then I stripped some paint off and attempted to get a bead of weld behind each cam tab. I didn't clean it very well and I'm sure my settings were garbage so it looks awful, but it will work so I don't really care.
I got a call early Friday saying the parts were in so I picked those up and a 12 ton bottle jack from HF. Using a spacer, I was able to remove just one bushing without ruining the other one so I only had to replace the one. A little bit of heat from my propane torch and some PB blaster made it go fairly smooth. I used my 6" vise and part of a wheel bearing removal kit to press the new bushing back in. Once that was done, It was just a matter of trying to find my alignment marks when I put everything back together. I couldn't find them.....but it should drive ok to get to the shop.

 

Tire day! 34x10.5x17 toyo Open Country AT3.

They look more narrow in the pictures. It is really a good look. I'll have to do some off road testing but I'm fairly certain my previous mods to fit the 285s have given me more room than I need. I'll give an update after I get a feel for the driving experience.

 

Subbed.

How much does the smart cap weigh? Saw one in my hood a couple years ago Impressed.

 

If I remember correctly it was 150lbs but it might have been 175. So close to there

 

Lighter than I thought. My Leer RCC is about that too. Takes a toll on leafs. I did a modified Dakar set. Works well for heavy cap, full load of camp gear, bikes on roof and towing small trailer.

 

Subbed, good info here! Truck looks great.

I’m curious what your mounted wheel height is with those 34s. My 265 at3s are well under the specs. It’s a rad size for sure.

 

With the weight of the truck measured horizontally I get right at 33.5. I think I'm at around 36psi and the wheel is 8.5" wide

 

Thanks for the info! Love this size