Front end Creak

When going over speed humps/bumps front driver side/middle there’s a creak or more of a pop I guess . Put on new ball joints and it still is happening. Bolt checked just about everything. Curious to what I need to replace, or lube. I have bilstien 5100’s in the front if that makes any difference.
https://youtube.com/shorts/TM4Y90RFYQc?si=eyuHt6DRfegysge3

video for the sound

 

I'm hearing something at the 3,8, and 14 second mark in the video, is that the creak? The road noise is overpowering it on my full blast airpods on my desktop.

 

Time of the noise would be helpful for diag. You check sway bar end links? I've found those have tended to be the culprit when bumps are involved.

 

Yes those are when the creaks are. For some reason it’s much harder to hear on YouTube than my camera roll

 

3, 8 and 14 second mark. Audio got wacked out on YouTube. The sway bar end links are tight and look fine, probably due to be changed though. Should I look at oem? Or go with some aftermarket as it’s not a big fail point part

 

If they’re not all rusted it’s easy to get them off, if the ball joint sections are all loose and wobble easily they are done and that’s probably your culprit.

I usually go OEM for suspension parts, end links are pretty cheap too

 

Alright I’ll try that. Do you by chance know the part number for a 2004 4x4?

 

48820-35040 is passenger side
48810-35020 is driver side

 

Thank You!!

 

Also is it possible to remove the end links that are on right now and just drive without them to see if they are the issue?

 

Yep, if you take them off and the sound goes away that’s the problem. You’ll get a bit more body roll in turns while they’re off.

They’re a real PITA to get off if they’re rusted though and often the easiest way to remove them then is to just cut them.

 

Alright I’ll try that tomorrow. Don’t need to take the whole sway bar off right? Just the links

 

yep, one end bolts to sway bar, the other end bolts to the lower control arm.

You’ll want an Allen wrench for the bolt and a 17 mm for the nut IIRC. If the bolt is corroded and you can’t get the Allen key into the end that’s when it might be easiest to just break out the cutting wheel.

Check sway bar bushings while your under there as well IMO, should be maybe six inches inboard of the end links

 

I’m interested here
I agree with others about SB links
Noises I have heard from them are very irratic/can’t be replicated unless driving
Turns out I just didn’t tighten the links from previous work on my issue

that is a good idea to take off and test
Let everyone know what you find

 

Make sure to torque to spec when reinstalling…I found one hanging down one day when I accidentally torqued to 2WD spec

Luckily didn’t destroy my CV but just read a thread from a guy where it did

4WD spec on both ends is 66 ft-lb

 

Definitely will update you all. Hopefully get the links off soon this week

 

update. Tried my best to get the ends off and didn’t manage to yet. However I found I believe there’s a bigger issue … a very loud CV and more importantly side to side play in the wheel and if you can tell by the video the whole steering rack is moving. I’d assume this is out of my skill level of fixing and I intend on taking it to a shop unless it’s something more simple than I imagine.

https://youtube.com/shorts/xb_3ruASkJw?si=b86ENisMhIqEVNyI

 

But anyhow. Visually the sway bar links look just fine. I suspect that either the inner tie rod or steering rack is the issue.

 

Good vid
1-tht pop is CV axle
2-shaking the wheel, hands at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock (as u did) proves outer tie rod(s) worn
3-I see the rack’s movement
That appears to be racks bushings

if rack is leaking, would buy new or send off to a Reman Vendor
Typically rack RM vendors also RM axles
and that includes inner tie rods
Adco is a nationwide vendor for both
If rack is not leaking, might get away with new bushings and inner ties

depends how long you want to keep the taco.
IMO
I would just get everything done and spend $ on only one alignment

been a long time since I paid for RM rack(no issues after 8yrs) was $250
I’m sure now would be closer to $350
Same with RM axle $100 then, probably $200 -/+ now
OE best choice, but EVERY insurance company will be paying for RM rack or RM/AM axles

 

Alright. No leaks from the steering rack and honestly feel and looks in solid shape. Might get a shop’s opinion but I leaning towards just getting new bushings and inner tie rods. Do you think what is shown in the video is directly related to the noise I was hearing?