Any woodworkers?

A couple of inlays for clients. The most boring shark-coochie board and cutting board ive made yet. Didnt want any handles, holes, nada.


Engraver is awesome, Lake Sunapee has the little islands and everything.

 

Cool idea

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C1fEnmpJSy8/?igsh=MTIwNW16eWw0ZjJmMg==

 

What are you using to be able to do that detailed of inlay?

 

Id guess laser cut

 

Yup, laser. Cuts the inlay out and engraves the hole for it to get glued into.

 

That’s impressive!

 

No wood working in the shop today. It was all about maintenance and sharpening tools.
I use the sandpaper method to sharpen chisels and plane irons.
This is a piece of laminated tempered glass, also known as bullet proof.

I use spray adhesive to attach the paper to the glass. This is mostly Klingspor cloth backed paper.

This is what I started with. I need to sharpen most of my morticing chisels.
I work the backs as well as the face through the grits. It really doesn't take more than a few strokes on each grit.

And this is what I end up with. I only sharpen the edge, not the whole face. Kinda hard to see but it's only polished about half way up, and it's now very sharp.

 

It’s gonna need another epoxy pour then sanding

 

After sharpening about 6 chisels I moved on to my most used planes.
Rabett plane is going to be needed soon. And the no.65 is a recent score, new in the box. So it needs some tuning.

Rabett plane is newer but works well.

Blade looks like it isn't square but I checked it with a machinest square and it is. Factory grind was off

It cleaned up well and is ready to go back to work.

 

Next I sharpened a couple of my favorite block planes. One is a new score new in the box, never sharpened. I have another one just like it.
So I decided to show it some love.
Never sharpened plane iron, factory grind.

Now the iron is sharp.

A nice example of a user no.65

I flattened the sole a bit, but it needs more work, that's for another day. I also waxed all the cast surfaces.

I also gave this craftsman block plane the same treatment. It has an adjustable mouth and the plane iron can also be adjusted with the lever in the rear. It has always felt good in my hand.

I could spend months maintaining restoring my planes, I have an extensive collection. But the ones above are my most used.

 

I want to make a Go board game for my FIL at some point. How would you make these grid lines in the wood (not painted or marker, but actually cut out)? Let me add - I don't have a laser engraver or other specialty equipment. I do have various saws, sanders, etc...

 

It could be done with a router and a shop made jig. You would have to move the jig and clamp it down for each line

 

Prob can be done, but for such fine lines. Id get it laser etched

 

The router would be the cleanest but you could also use a skil saw and a guide too. Those blades are fairly thin and you can set the depth of the blade.

If you have a table saw with a fence you could also create that pattern.

Practice on some scrap wood first to get your measurements correct to account for the width of the saw blade

 

Another option would be using a different color wood for the lines... requires a lot of cutting and gluing. All depends on how much effort you want to put into it.

 

I was thinking that also but the outside edge would be tough to do

 

The outside edge could be banded.

 

Maybe a stencil and ammonium chloride

https://jennifermaker.com/how-to-burn-designs-into-wood/

 

If I was going to do it, I would make a router jig with one of these types of radius round-over bits with just the tip *ahem* protruding. I'd make a straight edge jig then make my grid. Once complete, I'd use a little black wood stain or India ink to fill the voids. Sand off any bleed through then seal. I haven't done any experiment with India ink but you may be able to apply sealer before cutting the grooves to prevent the ink from bleeding through the fibers where you don't want it to.

-J

 

tablesaw then band the outside with a mitred wrap

or circular saw / router with a straight edge and again band the outside with a mitred wrap