2002 Toyota Tacoma Rear left door actuator

The rear driver's side door lock quit working, awhile back, when using the door lock button on the driver's door panel. I purchased another actuator and finally got around to replacing it today. This is where it gets weird. Before I put everything back together, I made sure the actuator worked and it did. Each time I added a step, the actuator worked until I installed the door panel and snapped it in place. At this point, I couldn't get the actuator to work until I completely diassembled the door again, disconnected the actuator, hooked up the harness to the old actuator, which now works, attached the newly installed actuator, which now works and assembled the door again just for the same thing to happen. The last time I assembled the door, prior to snapping it in place , the actuator worked , so I decided to not snap the panel to the door but remove the plastic push in fasteners and let the door just hang but then the actuator stopped working again. I have lubricated everything. Any ideas?? Please

 

Apologize to whoever put a curse on your door?

 

When you say it doesn’t work do you mean it won’t get power or it won’t lift the window with power running the activator?

If you’re not getting any power to it, look for a pinched wire or where the connector may be getting pulled on.

 

how are you 'testing' actuator during re-assembly?

 

I have checked the wires by sight and actually rewrapped them with electrical tape. I have been pressing the locking button on the driver's side Front door to see if the rear door lock activates.

 

hmmmmmmm

is there a lock/unlock switch on the affected door?

 

Not a switch, only a manual pull/push top "lever".

 

dang

what about the other front door?

what im thinking its a faulty switch
if you can press another unlock/lock switch and different results, would confirm the same

also
on a 2dr car of mine
the driver side pass window up/down switch stopped working
1 week later
both driver side window switches would not raise/lower windows

discovered the shop that painted that driver door failed to properly attach the driver master switch pigtail/plug
i pressed pigtail until i heard the click.....fixed

 

Unfortunately there isn't a switch on the affected door. The front locking/unlocking switched work. The two back doors are manual however the front driver's locking /unlocking switch activates three doors but not the affected one.

 

well hells bells

lemme think


and now you found that the old actuator started to work(when door disassembled)?

 

You might have mentioned it, however have you confirmed the actuator's receiving power by hearing a whirring sound or something when the window's not going up with the door reassembled?

Had the old actuator not been working at all or only intermittently prior to the removale and replacement?

 

The new door lock actuator
With door assembled
Same result with door opened and closed?

sorry, bc of the frustration, I would probably slam the door closed

 

Just to clarify, Dalanser, I am having trouble with the door lock actuator not the window. The old and new actuator stopped working whether the door was open or closed and Controlcar, you are correct, I slammed the door this last attempt and that still didn't work

 

Ok, so had the old door lock actuator stopped working completely or was it working intermittently? I’d completely, then for how long had it not been working?

This sounds a bit like my wife’s 3rd Gen 4runner but with the windows. All I had to do was remove the window / door switch assembly from the driver’s door and clean all of the contacts.

Is there only one lock switch that activates all 4 locks and the key that will activate all the locks on both the driver’s and front passenger door like a t4r?

Basically both actuators work until you replace the door skin on the door still?

 

The old door lock actuator died completely almost a year ago. Yea, there is only one lock switch that activates all 4 locks and it is on the drivers door panel plus as you mentioned, the key will activate all the locks on both sides but I haven't checked if it will activate the faulty one. I will try the key tomorrow but for right now, the new actuator was working until I attached the door skin. Crazy huh.

 

If all actuators work (all doors unlock/lock) with remote/key fob,

I’m going with dalandser.
Take driver door master switch out inspect and clean

 

Susanw
I searched and ton of videos
Mostly about window switches
It’s the same premise (a switch contact clean)
However, looked a five vids, and different years have different switches
Don’t want to point u to a vid that is no use to you
Let everyone know what you find!
GL

 

Here is the latest update. After I slammed the door the other day, I couldn't open it because some of the rods fell off. So I will not do that again. With the door closed, I got in the back seat and disassembled the door again and got it open. At this point, the door lock worked by using the driver's door lock as usual. I slowly put everything together and with my husband as a witness, the door lock worked until I closed the door. Needless to say, I am walking away from this cursed door for awhile and will continue to lock it manually. Thanks so much for everyones input and I will keep you posted when I return to this crazy issue.

 

Jesus.
Frustrating.
Keep us posted

I know from experience…….sometimes better to walk away and re-address at later time