Anything I should be on the lookout for other than rust?

Also pay attention as to the status of the title. Make sure it isn't a "salvage" or "rebuilt" title, hence a cheaper price.

-One thing I always do is copy and paste the VIN into a blank google page, select images, and it will show you damage if someone is selling a salvage title vehicle prior to being fixed.

-I know that here in Denver there are more and more pot lots popping up with "rebuilt" vehicles on CL, seems to be a cottage industry these days.

-Watch out for flood vehicles as well. Many times you can look up under the dash on the passengers side and see water marks. Hope this helps.

 

tnshooter basically summed it all up for you, also, check the timing cover, they love to leak on these. usually by the power steering pump. my 15 has just started to seep. keeping a eye on that. check it good. if my memory serves me right, its roughly $1500 if you take it somewhere since the whole front has to be apart to take the cover off

 

There's more than one way to fix that leak.
The "right" way, or the ugly way.

The ugly way involves cleaning the cover/block at the leak.
And coating it with an ultra oil resistant RTV.

Is it ugly? it sure is.
Does it work? It has for some.

I know what I'm going to try first.

 

what brand of ultra oil resistant RTV do you like? I would like to try to patch it for now since the leak is so slow.

 

Permatex "The right stuff Black"
The right stuff is fast setting. Which is what I'd want to use on an active oil leak.
I want it to setup and dry before oil leaks back out. You don't want oil to compromise the RTV before it dries.

 

ill get a tube and try it. its nonsense for it to be tore apart right now since its slow. but if i could seal it that would be awesome, how long should i let it sit before i drive it? its been in the low to mid 30s in my area here lately

 

sorry, nevermind, just looked this stuff up. suprised i didnt get it the first time when you explained it. looks like a min and its ready to go. would it matter with it being those temps to do it?

 

Permatex says you can put the vehicle back in service in 1 minute.
I personally like to wait as long as I can. At least a few hours. 3 hours or so maybe.
But I'm a cautious person like that.

That's not to say I wouldn't use the truck in less time.
I mean, if you "have" to drive it. Drive it

 

im so with you on that, so, i get it. Im always particular like that to. Im only 24, so, i have much to learn yet with small stuff like this. anything you guys on here can teach me will help me. i will give that a try. thanks.

 

I've used it down in the lower 50's F.

But I'd feel more comfortable letting a guy like @Bishop84 answer that.
He's a technician in Canada. I bet he knows what is "too cold" to apply RTV.

 

I have a friend that has a climate controlled garage to work in. I may just do it while I'm their next

 

Thanks tnshooter.

 

No problem.
I’m not a mechanic.
I’ll just a guy that “tries” to work on his own stuff to save a few dollars.
Live learned a lot of stuff from other guys.
And I’ve learned a lot of stuff the hard way.

I’m always willing to help others out when I can.
It’s kind of like “paying back” the guys that helped me out
Plus, saving money is always good, right?

 

yes Indeed

 

Below room temp is too cold so 68?

Lowest id go is 60. It’s a waste of time otherwise

 

Definitely good stuff. The only stuff I’ll use when it’s required.

A little trick. Put the goop in place, put a dab somewhere else like on top of the battery. When the dab is dry & stiff, the other stuff will be too.