Deaver J59 on 95 Tacoma

Bought new 97-04 OEM Hangers front and back

How do I install these accurately
1995 Frame

Thank you very much

 

Is your goal to run springs spec'd for 98-04 trucks? That's bee pretty well documented, pretty sure AllPro still has a writeup on here somewhere about how to move the hangers to suit their leafs on a 95-97 truck.

 

Whats the numbers?

Spoon-feed teh baby berd

Im reading:
front forward 2"
rear backward 1"

but what if I told you the real measurements are
front forward 1"
rear backward 2"

But I don't think it's inches, and I would like a solid datum point to measure against.

Rear hangers are different,
hole is rearward 2" and bracket is longer.

Front hangers are same.
~1" difference (and the ears that are never used.. what are they for?)

Again, hate using Inches on a Metric Truck

I've searched for hours, doesnt seem well documented. Several threads that ramble on for pages with no details.. kinda like the Rear Sway bar thread. LOL

 

I understand your gripe here, but consider this... nothing here needs to be precise as long as left matches right (for thrust angle). I haven't done this job myself, I skipped the short leafs and went right for Chevy 63s instead but the work is the same. Your main hanger position determines the fore and aft placement of the wheel in the well and the hanger side you can do after to set your own ideal shackle angle for your leafs and chose shackle length. As for a solid datum point... the best ones are already on the truck holding your leafs (provided your alignment says they check out thrust angle wise), everything else is totally blurry. You can measure from the end of the frame (either one) and get different numbers left to right... these trucks are horrible mirrors and points are often transposed quite a bit. 1st gen leafs don't have their center pins equidistant from the ends of the leaf and aftermarket leafs like J59s are made to "work" with the stock mounts but could probably benefit from you positioning the mounts ideally yourself.

 

*hnnnngggggg*

I vote, *not* documented.

Cant find a single picture of a NOS hanger on the whole internet.

Imna drive down the neighborhood with the J59s in the truck bed,
and knock on doors, explaining the situation and asking to measure the truck in their driveway. LOL
Somebody has to have a 98+ on the block.

I dont want to weld on $300 brackets to find the wheel too far rear in the well..

IDK how much the compression moves these springs back (they have a lot of arch)

meaning they will move the axle back when compressed?

*head hurts*

 

When I did mine I just tacked them on first then set the truck down (tacks will hold if you're not driving) to check my fore and aft placement. It's leaf springs not rocket appliances.

I had to get mine right for obvious reasons...

Little baby tacks hold just fine...


Gotta test before you do this, stakes are probably lower for yours haha


And yes you're right as your leafs flatten out more the wheel moves back a bit, tacoma leafs usually have a wheel forward bias a bit in the wells.

 

Duude.. I wanted to french these mud-draggers, but the J59 specs barely 1.5" lift.
Any french is a loss of lift afaik.

Boss demanded 2" lift on her truck.
Told her she gets a Body lift if its not high enough.
Helps with the CoG, like you said.


I'll tack them in place and fill the truck bed with a tarp and garden hose to check compression..

Someone said to disassemble them and cycle just the main spring,
but how to U bolt the bunch together,
and all that work disassembling and reassembling packs sounds borderline nightmare.

Reverse Engineering Rockets for a living has created stress in my personal life.

 

This has frame dimensions for an ext cab. I don’t have one for a reg cab but it has been posted before.

 

^^^

What year is that for, and why do they match my 95?
*ded*

 

I believe those are for a 1999.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-frame-dimensions.436399/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-ext-cab-frame-diagram.780481/

 

Thats what I thought, but all the measurements are matching my 95 chassis.
I must be having a stroke..

I'll try again tomorrow, lol

 

So it looks like 1252mm (42.29") is the direct line distance between front and rear hangers. I can measure mine later and see how close that is.

 

What’s stopping you from taking measurements at a junk yard?

 

Wait... You're adding J59 Deavers on your truck, and you want a sway bar for better roll control? These don't add up. J59's are like double the droop of the stock springs. What are you trying to do with this truck?

You need new shocks with the J59s. The "extended" 5100s for lifted applications is fine for occasional wheeling, but if your intention is to thrash this truck about, you're going to need a more robust shock relocation with good bump stop and limit straps.

 

Tryna replace these W'd Dorman springs on 2" blocks, that axle wrap like-a bich.
I didn't want more than 2" lift, or non-standard hardware/shackles.


I keep seein all these people flipping their shit goin off the road at 20mph cause it's lifted 2".

Sway bar can be disconnected.

Fox 2.0 in the rear, stock position.. pretty ass.
Might relocate. Still ass.
will have to do, for now.

Dont wanna buy new ones.
Committed to the shock brand on this rig
Its gotta match,
and the woman likes the Fox logo cause its Cute.



Whats travel J59s get?
Longest shock under the bed? Fox Brand?
Tell me about your relocation ideas.


Goal is flat belly, T-case rotation, etc

 

The J59's are going to be a big improvement over the OEM equivalents + blocks. Not sure why you wouldn't consider shackles- they are a proven solution.

You have some strong misconceptions on what is going to flip a truck. Lift, no lift, wide, low, everything rolls at some point. Hell, I was on the freeway a couple years ago, and a dude right next to me in the fast lane fell asleep, drifted into the median, and as soon as the tire hit the median he was up-side-down. A lot of the accidents I see trucks/suvs get into are caused by an abrupt change in traction conditions. IE, driving along a road making a turn while hitting gravel, or snow/ice, softer sand, etc... Nothing you can do about that- simple physics.

Good springs and shocks will go a long way in making sure the rear axle maintains traction.

I don't know what shocks you have. You're going to have to get the J59's mounted and cycle the suspension. But for sure expect them to droop out lower (a lot lower) than the Dorman springs.

 

Ford and Nissan both found RSB worth it
So did the 4Runner and 2WD.

They all spent Millions on Rear Sway bars.
You don't need to waste your time arguing against it.
I will die on this hill.

Nissan also has patents to asymmetric shackle and bushing design to promote roll stability at the leaf spring.


Look at the OEM Shackle,
It is NOT symmetrical.

The OEM rear Shackle mount is not symmetrical,
Neither is the front hanger.

If you argued I needed longer shackles as a result of there being a greater arch vs flat length in the spring, id be inclined to agree.
Still want to keep the proper lateral offset.


IDK where to respond to you anymore, lol
Or why you are so against upgrading,
hot-rodding these vehicles with sister model parts,
or talking about what you know, demanding I "reasurch stuff in places".
Or have a vendetta against rear sway bars, which can be easily disconnected for some mad flex, y0


Deaver, Solo, Desolate, and Camburg all said the internet warriors are completely full of bullshit about the J59, F31 travel numbers and to not expect or try to pull more than stock.
I spent about 4 hours on the phone between them all talking about different rigs I own.

You can't even give me numbers when I ask, which all leads me to agree with them.

 

It's extremely hard to answer your posts because they are ALL over the place, and you're essentially asserting that we collectively have overlooked something so crucial to safety for last 20+ years, and you're the first person to care about it. I, and most others, don't have the time to play this game with you. Good luck on whatever pursuit your on.

 

I just measured mine and they are about 53.5” apart (rough estimate not exact). So that tells me the frame diagram I posted is most likely for 95-97 or 89-94 pretacoma.

 

You could also consider putting your rear shocks outside the frame for stability. Most newer vehicles have done this, even the Tacoma.

I prototyped a bolt on outboard shock mount and have it installed on my truck. I have definitely noticed reduced body roll (I have a topper on the back). It requires wheel spacers to clear the tire at full articulation.

I did not make any more of them but I have the pieces to make one more set. Here’s the thread where I post about it. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/feeler-1st-gen-tacoma-bolt-on-outboard-shock-mounts.794657/