Best 0W-20

Next time I visit my doctor, I'm going to tell him to stop drawing my blood samples and analyzing it for potential health problems. There's more that goes on in a body than scanning of liquid a beaker in a lab...

You should tell me how any of these professionals arrived at their conclusions. You'll be surprised that they did so by analyzing the oil for wear and stability. The naked eye cannot spot issues in an engine, but apparently your eyes can because "it looked brand new inside".

"Doctor, there's nothing wrong with me. I look and feel great!"

 

If you guys will notice in the owner's manual, the crappiest driving habits can still get you to 5K miles, especially with today's oils and oil filters. If you don't find yourself practicing these bad habits continuously, e.g. extensive idling, busy city traffic, dusty roads, 10K miles is perfectly fine.

The reason you change oil at all is because contaminant levels are reaching their threshold and/or the oil is losing stability. In either case, not changing the oil will result in significant engine wear. You will not know the exact status of the oil unless you get it analyzed.

Engine oil education: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

 

YouTube.

 

by looking in the engine

exactly. There's a lot of stuff bloodwork doesn't reveal.

your eyes can see staining, varnish, sludge, abnormal wear, premature component failure due to poor lubrication, etc.

timing chain wear is directly related to OCI practices for example. Or piston rings clogging resulting in oil consumption and bore scratching.

if you care about your engine you can even add WMI and use water to clean the combustion chamber to prevent carbon buildup and hot spots.

sig says '20 6" lift 18" fuel wheels 33"
checks out

 

Add Lubro-Moly's Oil Saver to your next oil change. Best seal conditioner.
For stuck piston rings, look up the MMO piston soak (marvel's mystery oil)

 

I wonder if it does the same to just simply put some MMO into the oil.

Have done an MMO piston soak on another car, it's kind of a PITA.
Remove plugs. Disable fueling. Pour in some MMO. Let soak. Vacuum out. Put towels and crank (fuel disabled) to get MMO back out of there to prevent hydrolock
reassemble, start (smoke)

vs. just put some in oil

BG also has an additive, MOA

 

Mmo thins out the oil. Go up a grade if you add it to oil.

 

Go to YouTube there are dozens and dozens of guys that do tests.
You can watch them do the tests and see how they come to their conclusions but the good testers all start with lab analysis, then do multiple tests from there.
Bobs The Oil Guy
The Motor Oil Geek
Project Farm
On The Work Bench

These guys go way beyond just reading a spec sheet they test them head to head.
There are tests of dozens of oils testing down to one final winner.
A lot of oils that people “think” are great are actually not that good.
Liquimolly was mediocre?
But some Amazon and Walmart oil tested out very well.
Redline has an Over the Top additive package but didn’t test that well.
Watch some of the tests and draw your own conclusions.

 

Here is what I’ve ran and my favorite from top to bottom. I recently changed to 0w30
1st Amsoil Signsture Series
2nd Pennzoil Ultra Platinum/Valvoline Extended Performance
3rd Valvoline Advanced Synthetic
4th Mobil One

 

The 2az-fe engines are known to burn oil. Has to do with bad piston rings. Mine did not start to burn oil until after the warranty timeframe. Had it started burning earlier Toyota would have replaced the piston rings under warranty. So yes I now use Supertech in that engine.

 

surprised no one ever mentions napa brand oil or schaeffer's. napa is easy to get, although i am not sure of the price. schaeffer's has been around since 1839, they say, but not cheap.

 

Lets start this thread up again tomorrow in DETAIL , so this gentleman get a good idea of what kind of oil to use

 

Ok. I’ve seen some but never any that were that interesting. Most of the ones I’ve seen fall into two categories. First, some kind of scar test that really doesn’t simulate an engine environment very well. Usually the more viscous oil will win here. The other is a basic pour test at one low temperature. Doesn’t tell you much that you couldn’t infer from the PDS. None of these tests that I’ve seen test anything other than virgin oil. I don’t put much into these tests. If anyone is doing any real engine tests, I’d be interested. I haven’t seen any.

 

Amazon's deal on Euro spec 5w-30 oil is back. 15 quarts for $43.14, $14.38 for a 5qrt of BMW LL-04 and MB 229.31 and 229.51 rated oil. Low ash, high starting TBN number, will easily do 10K miles.

$146 Pennzoil Platinum Euro L Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil, 5 Quart (3 Pack)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TRMN4YR

 

That's really good. I got a similar Castrol oil when it dipped to $25/5qt recently:

Castrol Edge 5W-30 K Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil, 5 Quarts

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084TCS8FC

 

I ordered a case. I am sitting on 150qrts of of synthetic oil, but I just could not help myself.
I also change oil in 4 SUVs/trucks, plus a brush cutter and lawnmower, so it will get used up.

 

I have 150 quarts of Schlitz Malt Liquor in my garage.

 

Pic of your house?

 

I just ordered and received Amsoil Synthetic OE, truck has Signature Series in it now. My justification is I always aim to change at no more than 5k miles so, IMO, I dont see the need for Signature + I kinda enjoy wrenching on the truck anyhow. Curious to know why you use Amsoil Signature rather than Amsoil OE Synthetic ?