Truck won’t start after electric mods completed

Can you give me some examples I know of some

 

Check out this thread for p1604 discussion. Silly question: does a test light only read voltage or does it inject voltage onto a circuit? Anyone know. Apologies for the ignorance, I only use a Fluke 77BN multimeter that I have had forever so I only read voltage.

Edit: DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK... check out what duder did on this thread

Dude had an '18 3rd Gen and reset the short term memory

1. Put it in Ignition on Mode
2. Disconnect both battery cables
3. Touch them together to discharge any stored energy
4. Reconnect the battery
5. Attempt to start

Worked for duder in the linked thread.

 

A typical test light has a ground clamp and probe to check for power. They can be used in reverse but that's a little past test light 101.
Newer canbus systems can be very sensitive. That type of test light can cause problems.
There are newer test lights that are safer. As well as test lights that attach to power and ground and indicate which one you've probed.

 

@Seareef228 , what color of wires were you messing with?

 

Just any that say ign, start or something I’m thinking you blew that fuse. Is why I say put in a known good fuse and try to crank it if it doesn’t put that fuse back move to the next one.
Or did you add remote start?

 

No remote start

 

I would suggest checking all fuses, both fuse boxes. Working in car stereo for 25 years taught me that sometimes fuse labels don’t really cover everything they affect. Use a multimeter not a test light. Personally I would never use a fuse tap, t-tap, or scotch lock type connector, never allowed the guys in my shop to use them.

 

I had something similar to this happen to me. Went to show my Stepson the new Stereo I installed went to start the truck and nothing. Checked all fuses and all were OK. Tried a bunch of other things. Then after he left, I looked in the fuse box in the engine compartment and I noticed some 30A JCASE fuses. I started to test them with a multimeter until I found one that I got no reading. Swapped that one with another one and BAM the truck started.

 

Hopefully it's not this bad,
AVOID Cheap Aftermarket Car Accessories and Here's Why! A $750 Lesson (youtube.com)

 

What's a j case fuse?

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage/669/large/11357470_lit_ljca030xp_pri_larg.jpg

 

This is the YouTube video that helped me out....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FJ67lpPTUOE

 

Here is what I purchased.

$8 BOJACK 30A JCASE Fuse Automotive FMX Fuse Low Profile JCASE for Trucks, Cars and SUVs(5pcs)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BGLP3TLY?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

I Swapped the AM2 No 1 JCASE 30 A fuse with the Radio JCASE 30 A fuse and the truck started.

 

@Seareef228 , are you AT or Manual?
You probably messed up Park/Neutral switch and or have a short causing the issue with the voltage on CAN network

 

That’s a good, useful video! I’m saving that myself.

 

With a ‘23 I would take the L and take it to the dealer personally. Good luck op following along to see what happens

 

You know, this thread is a nice example of the TW community actually trying to help someone. OP’s responses are hard for me to follow, and so I think it’s a lost cause. But we tried.

@Seareef228 — slow down, take a deeper breath and some pictures, and try to be a little more methodical with what you’re doing, even if it’s documenting or trying to understand what you did. Maybe your Edward Scissorhands experience can help some other poor schmuck down the line.

 

Thx bud I just bought some be here tomorrow

 

Awesome video so helpful thank you