Before you replace the blower resistor ...

Thanks. Think I'll try that. About to leave for a trip in a few days and really don't wanna mess things up and be stuck without AC on a six hour drive through California. If this doesn't work I'll order a new resistor

 

You can do the plug and resistor in 10 mins.

 

Thanks so much for this everyone! I swapped the resister, plug, and motor only to find that now each setting on my fan speed results in the blower on high!? any ideas?

 

No joke guys... I just tap the bottom of the connector when it goes out every 3/4 months and it goes back on. Haven't replaced anything yet.

 

Same here... but I unplug the connector and scrape the tarnished contacts... maybe twice a year when it reverts to running only on the high fan setting. The pain (for me) is removing the glove box to get at it! Tall passengers (long legs) tend to bump the harness/ connector with their shoe toe, and that makes it only run on high, as well.

 

Old thread but I have to thank op. I had problems with mine a few years back but it was the connection at the back of the switch unit. Cleaned it up and no longer an issue. Today on my way home it only ran on high. Got home and tried the connector on the switch unit...no luck. So I tried op's trick and voila, back in business. I love this site. Thanks TW

 

I know this is an old thread but thanks to OP and all the other contributors on this one. Went a long way to helping make sense of my issue (about 50% of the time motor will only turn on when on High, until you tap the motor or resistor area). I've checked the motor connector (perfect shape), resistor connector (slightly brown in that one pin and wire is browned about an inch), and fan speed control connector (slightly brown in that one pin and wire is browned about an inch).

Based on the comment here (or another thread?) about the motor being the initial culprit - due to higher draw/resistance as it goes bad - do I just go with a new motor and call it a day since everything else seems to be in good shape still with the exception of very mild browning? It makes sense that the motor is the sole cause here, as I can hear the motor having a tougher time and have already had it out once to clean and grease it a few years back. Or am I putting myself a risk of chasing my tail where the worn connector/wiring could start causing motor issues - and should really swap it all out? At that rate, given the new resistor and connector layout, wondering if at that point it's easier to just run a whole new wire harness between the fan control and the resistor. That way it's a fresh connector, new wires with thicker gauge, etc. But don't want to rip the dash apart if it's overkill. I hate the idea of splicing wires all over the place too, but ultimately I'll probably do whatever's the smart move long-term.

 

Is this a better quality than the original?

I may solder a solid wire directly to each male terminal on the resistor insulate them and wire direct.

 

I would work with moving around the wires a little bit. From my finding the wire isn’t held in the connector good enough so it is what causes the shorting/browning. This is made worse because it easily gets kicked in the foot well. When messing around with mine it completely fixed my issue from that day on.