Help wiring ARB CKMA 12 compressor to CH4x4 switch

As an FYI to anyone with the dual switch from ch4x4, the compressor harness can be ohmed out to determine that you don’t need to run as many wires. Here’s what I did to wire up the compressor and front locker dual switch (though I haven’t tested the front locker given I don’t have one yet, but this will save me from needing to change anything or go through the firewall again).

iso = isolation switch
Sw1 = switch 1
Sw2 = switch 2
NC = no connect
ARB > ch44

Sw1 red > NC
iso red > blue
Sw1 black x1, iso black x1 > black
Sw1 black x1, iso black x1 > NC
Sw1 yellow > green
Sw1 bluwht > NC

Iso redyel > red
Iso bluwht > yellow


Edit: I’ve concluded that you need to run a relay for these. Amperage pulled at DC os 0.367 A but there must be enough of a surge. There are others who wired singles just fine so my guess the duals are rated for less amperage than CH4x4 lists.

 

I know this is an older post...hopefully someone can help...

I have a

$200 kac-001 external accessory control module

kac-001 alpine unit that uses my head unit to control an 8 gang switch panel through the head unit it need a relay 100%

For those that used a separate relays to power a switch what amp fuse are you using?

I'm not removing the 2 x 40 amp running to power only talking about the relay fuse for the switch.

 

I just hooked the switch directly up to the relay. You won’t need a fuse in-line. The relay will pull under an amp and will only pull that much for a little bit until capacitance is charged up. Then it should be pretty minimal to hold it open. My fuses all supplied power to the relay

if you tap a switch into a fuse it would be for the light. Which you could use 1 A or even lower it’s just an LED. I think the smallest they have is 2.5 A and those are hard to find. 5 A would be fine too. Worst that happens is the LED fails short but it still wouldn’t trip either of those fuses

 

The

$200 kac-001 external accessory control module

kac-001 trigger is only rated for 250 milliamps...they say to use a relay and fuse inline between the battery...if this wasn't hooked up to my head unit I wouldn't be as worried...the arb switch is a 15amp switch I would think 15amp fuse should be fine but was hoping to see what others had done.

I don't need a fuse illuminated in this case as the controller basically turns my head unit into my switch panel so there is no physical switch to light up.

Thanks for your input tho it makes sense for your setup.

I am hoping to get this right as my lockers will go to same controller unit eventually but there is not a lot of info on my setup online its not common...maybe I should reach out to Crutchfield to see if they can advise

 

Typically your power wire is supplied via an add-a-circuit. This puts the fuse inline from the battery and keeps it separate from existing fuses. There should be specs on current or power it pulls but if not can measure it or ask crutchfield

if you go straight to your battery instead then yes you need a fuse on that wire. That’s how the compressor from ARB works. You could also do a fuse block but I haven’t needed to do that yet since I don’t have that much stuff hooked to my battery directly yet

 

I think I have it figured out with the relay I'm traveling so will have to test next week...I have so much electrical happening all switch blanks are full, 6 gang switch panel is full so I had I decided this was my best route for lockers and compressor it's just a different setup and the fact it expensive and tied into my radio and idatalink has me a bit nervous lol.

I have so many wires running to the battery with sdhq terminals I need a fuse block and relay organizer solution...I'll get around to cleaning it up at some point...things just progressed faster than I thought...thanks tacomaworld sorry bank account.