Maintenance… what to do?

Alright guys, don’t cut my head off now.

Need some advice. Currently own a 2013 Tacoma TRD Sport 2wd (bought brand new in Nov 2012). I’ve done all the maintenance work myself, which isn’t much.

Since day one, I’ve changed the oil every 5k (occasionally 6k) miles even I can’t get right to it with Mobil one full synthetic and Toyota oem filter.

I’ve changed my front break pads and rotors about 4 times, all with EBC slotted rotors and EBC green stuff brake pads. About a year ago, I replaced both front brake cylinders bc my passenger side had locked up.

I’ve had to changer carrier/ hammer bearing and u-joints to my driveshaft

and most recently, my truck would go into limp mode, couldn’t drive pass 30 mph or accelerate normal and threw a check engine light. Turned out to be the SAI Secondary Air Injection Smog Valve which I bought oem and replace myself about 5 months.

besides what’s above, I haven’t done anything else to my truck. Truck current has 191,000 miles and I have started to notice that I’m burning allot more gas than normal so it had me thinking and looking on here about maintenance. I’ve never changed the spark plugs so I purchased the Denso K20hr-U11 and I’ll be installing those tomorrow along with a new K&N filter.

Now my question is, what else should I do maintenance wise? Not to sure if at this stage I should be changing transmission, differential fluids, etc

 

Wow. Change the plugs and clean the MAF Sensor.
I bet things improve drastically.

You should also change the differential fluid.
At this point, I’m not sure what to do with the transmission.
I’d drain and fill. But I’m also ok knowing it “might” cause issues.

 

Replacing the PCV valve(around $10), changing the rear diff fluid, cleaning the MAF sensor ONLY WITH MAF cleaner and cleaning the throttle body are all SUPER easy to do.

 

Start easy.
Fluids. Does the part have a fluid?
Change it.

 

All good advice above. Drain and re-fill only for the automatic transmission: especially if it is currently shifting fine. Use OEM Toyota WS fluid. No flush & fill at this milege. I would not drop the pan to clean/fiddle with the magnets or change the screen, unless maybe the pan gasket is leaking or the truck has lived a hard life, (towing) they're never in bad shape. Do it again at 40-50k. (F/F) Only other thing to add, and might be controversial to some, but I would swap out the K&N with an OEM Toyota air filter and just change it again every year or 25,000 miles. Replace the cabin air filter if it has never been done. (and watch out for mice in there. )

 

well, at times it gets stuck in 4th gear where I have to shift it manually down and then back up so it can switch out of 4th gear. doesn't happen to often though. Would that be considered "shifting fine"?

 

also, this is the filter I am currently using have it's been the typed I've used since around 25k miles

 

Check your serpentine belt, pulleys and tensioners.

 

and would changing out the transmission fluid at 191,000 miles be a problem? I know there is a possibility where changing fluids that haven't been changed at a high mileage cause leaking thru the gasket.

So should I still change it?

Truck currently has ZERO leaks or issues besides the fact that it has been burning more gas than usual. And yes, I have used my truck for towing but nothing crazy. Towing a jet ski primarily and the most weight I have towed is 2 can am outlander 1000s about 3000lbs total including trailer.

 

Don't forget to rotate bulbs

 

this is also on my list. waiting for the blinker fluid to come in from Temu to get here first

 

Other than oil changes you haven’t done any maintenance. You’ve repaired a couple things but you haven’t done maintenance. Just check your owners manual and do all the maintenance called for that you haven’t done for the last 10+ years and almost 200,000 miles. Damn, definitely wouldn’t want to be the one to buy your truck when you go to sell it (if it’s even still operable then)

 

the truck is solid! runs and drives perfect. only reason I'm looking into it now because the truck is burning more gas than normal now. Besides that, its been taken care of and never abused

 

No: not "normal". Fatal flaw? IMO: Maybe not on a transmission that is approaching 200,000 miles. It could be just a low fluid level. Does it happen when only when it's cold? / Fully warmed? / Both? This issue would prob cement my decision not to do a flush-and-fill on the transmission if it was my truck: Drain and re-fill only and see if it goes away.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/MiS248FXIs8

 

normally will do it while its warm, going up a hill on a highway or towing not really when its cold

 

i'd drain and fill the radiator fluid and use toyota oem fluid.

 

If you clean and re-oil incorrectly these can gum things up.

 

maintain what needs maintaining and replace what wears out at a service life.

go down the list.

KN is oiled filters that damage MAF.
There is no point.
OEM filter works. Certain performance filters have been found to let dirt through.

the inlet location is more important. It sucks dirt from the wheel well. There’s numerous ways about changing this.

besides doing a trans service and potential relearn procedure, one guy on his YouTube review of intake manifold spacers reported his truck happier to stay in 5th after rather than downshift to 4th.

it is well known that on an N/A motor, a long intake tract results in more low end torque by allowing air to build momentum coming in.
The drawback is it’s $200 for metal spacers.

if mine was automatic with any complaints in addition to a service and making sure it has a cooler and temp gauge, I’d check for any potentially applicable TSBs regarding being sure software is up to date. Among other things that affect behavior, automatics have TCM’s.
After that potentially a tune

replaced all of my O2 sensors at high miles as maintenance.

 

OP, first simple thing I would do is ditch that overrated, unnecessary K&N filter. They cause more problems than they help. Go with OEM…

Lots of good advice in the posts above. I would do is change the spark plugs and clean the MAF sensor and then dive into other fluid changes. Spark plug change is an easy DIY and should take 1-2 hours at most, use OEM Denso plugs

 

Definitely clean the MAF. As @Canadian Caber said, if re-oiled incorrectly (too much) and immediately put back in, that oil will do a number on the MAF.
There's nothing really bad about the K&N, but it has to be cleaned and oiled correctly.
Clean the throttle body and change the plugs. Your MPG should improve.
Then as many other have suggested, coolant, power steering and the brake fluid. All are easy enough to do in your garage or driveway.