Magnetic Drain Plugs

For what it's worth you do not want to install a magnetic drain plug on your engine oil pan. The magnetic particle surry an engine produces is so fine and quickly accumulates that if it were to release a small glob from the drain plug and get sucked up it can do seriously damage yo your bearings, that's why your engine has a filter. I do not recommend a magnetic engine oil plug.

As for trans transfer and diffs the above posted magnetic lexus plugs I have in everything short if the front diff drain in which I use a different lexus part that also has a magnet.

 

I use a Fumoto valve for the engine oil or I would. The diffs already have a small magnet and “if” the larger magnets clears the internals it’s akin to installing a better filter.

 

I’ll take a shot and investigate these larger magnets. If it doesn’t work out I’ll be out about $20.

When I changed my front differential oil at 5,000 miles I was actually shocked how many shavings were on the magnet. Not much found on the rear differential plug. I’m thinking a larger magnet with a larger surface area should make it easier to catch any contaminants.

The reason I post this and other threads is to share thoughts and after much feedback it is sometimes determined my thoughts aren’t always well thought out, lol.

You can’t hit the ball if you don’t swing and I’ll never get called-out watching a third strike.

 

In theory that's true, but to have a glob big enough to to break free from the magnetic tip, you'll need quite a bit of ferrous material.

I never let my engine oil run more than 5k miles, here is what the magnetic drain plug used in engine oil pan looks like after such period



it still has plenty of capacity to trap ferrous particles, as long as you change the oil regularly I think the engine is safe.

 

That's funny, but sad

 

My 2021 OR has differential magnets from the factory. Otherwise, I agree with you.

 

I forget, do the fronts have mags?

 

The front diff drain does, the fill not.

 

The front drain plug is magnetic as well.

 

It’s been so long I can’t remember haha. Musta just been that the rear had so much more smut than the rear.

 

Looking at stainless aftermarket oil drain plugs: mag drain plug

$13 M12x1.25 mm Self-Locking Nylon Insert Hex Lock Nuts, Pack of 6

M12x1.25 for 2023 tacoma. What is the proper thread LENGTH which no-one specifies?
Should I care whether I use disposable fiber washers or the bronze washer that these stainless plugs come with?

Looks like these drain plugs are machined to accept a press-fit or glued magnet- should I be concerned about it coming loose and wrecking my engine? Has this ever been documented? If the plug is stainless it's not magnetic, or barely.
I've thrown out a couple of hand tools and unistrut fittings where a "permanent" magnet popped out and got lost or became nonfunctional.

Why stress over this?... New truck, plan to change oil at 500 and 1500 miles where the greatest amount of metal is likely to be produced.

 

Do the stock ones not do a good enough job?
The two times ive serviced my diffs, portions of the plug magnet are still exposed, i.e. not caked with sludge.
Seems to indicate theres no more metal sludge to pull from the gear oil?
Just seems like a made up problem

 

I affixed/bonded magnets to my differential drain plugs using neodymium magnets. I didn’t do this with the oil plug because I use a Fumoto valve instead.

 

Dimple makes good magnetic plugs.

 

Lexus P/N PLUG (FOR FRONT DIFFERENTIAL DRAIN)
9034124016
Cost me: $ 9.24


Easier to get off the next time than the Toyota one - get it from a local dealer

 

Nice WAG on the “pull force.”

Magnetic force goes as 1/r^4. In other words it is weak and fades fast with distance. The oil is thrown around so much that the slightly stronger magnet isn’t necessary, it doesn’t need to be very strong to begin with. MacGyvering a loose magnet is on the wrong side of a risk/benefit calculation IMO. Especially with the stock magnets being integrated in the plug rather than glued on…

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-differential-drain-plug-part-number.655172/page-2

 

I did my 500 mi oil change and installed a stainless magnetic engine oil drain plug.
With my RCI skid plates, draining via a roughly 2 inch dia hole works... but a little tricky.
Now looking at the

$40 Fumoto F133N with LC-10 F-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Long Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for M12-1.25

Fumoto F133N: LONG NIPPLE OIL DRAIN VALVE WITH M12-1.25
and attaching a plastic hose to drain.

Anyone with the Fumoto and skid plate? Is there room to get your hand in there to operate it and reinsert the valve lock?

 

I recommend this:
The stahlbus® oil drain valve
Comes with a nice very flexible hose. I store it in a plastic bag between oil changes.
As far as the magnetic drain plug, you will no longer be able to use it on the engine oil, that in my opinion does not need it - the oil filter does a good job in that manner. However, for the differentials I will be going to magnetic drain plugs.

 

Thank you. Looking at the Stahlbus product data, looks a bit like a grease zerk function in that a ball bearing with spring backer acts as seal.
Clever.
My one hesitation is seeing a steel body, copper seals, and aluminum cap
In construction trades bimetallic reactions are a major concern. Removing the aluminum cap 2 to 3 changes per year should mitigate but I'd expect aluminum oxide to clog up the steel threads and make it harder to remove. I had aluminum tire air caps that froze on to valves in a scant season.
Maybe overthinking... I'd love a drain hose to reduce the mess.