High efficiency furnaces suck

What is the point of having these in Colorado if the condensation drain constantly freezes and likely flood the house?

 

then it was not installed correctly
ether need to be pumped out instead of a gravity line or heat tape applied to the drain line

 

Where is this furnace located?

 

mine is great. i had to replace the pump a couple months ago, but works fine. my house is almost 100 years old and i bought a couple years ago.

a coworker replaced his whole system last year and was jealous of the one i have.

 

Second floor upstairs in the hallway between bedrooms.

 

I have one probably over 15 years old. I always had issues and the HVAC guys would come over and they wouldn't try to explicitly sell me a new one, but they never got it working consistently. I did some research and tinkering, I was shocked at how much water they put out. I had no clue. Anyway, I replaced the water drainage anti-backflow thing for like 20 dollars. All the issues disappeared. I haven't had to touch it other than filters in like 4 years. Mine has a pump that drains it into the washing machine drain.

 

My igniter (aka glow stick/plug) when out last year. It was cool to see the old Coors Tek igniter from 2012. When that happened, I got the guy to make sure everything was level and that helped a lot

 

Are they daylighting the condensation drain line or does it go to an internal drain?

 

Also, is there a condo pump or is it gravity? If it's a pump it should be wired in series with your thermostat so it shuts off if it doesn't drain preventing flood/overflow.

 

I had a 220 gallon saltwater reef tank in my basement (3 years), 7 years prior upstairs. Another 75 gallon and 50 gallon supporting tank. Two 50 gallon brute trashcans I made salt and freshwater in.

Over the summer I had installed a new high efficiency HVAC system. Not long after, we noticed high moisture content all through the house. Everything was damp. Mildew started accumulating in the basement crawl spaces.

I went from losing about 20 gallons of water per week to about 60 gallons. Ended up having to take down the tank and down size to something much smaller.

Ran exhaust fans, fans and dehumidifiers, I had the company out several occasions to try to fix it with no luck. I am still to this day convinced that something wasnt installed right on the HVAC, but its whatever now.

 

It would take a long ass time to flood anything with condensate from one of these, they make some sure but not a catastrophic amount. I just run mine to a pump and have that pump go to the drain for the washing machine so it doesn't have to go outside. Supposed to have a pan with a level sensor to turn off the heat call signal if they overflow too.

 

Daylighting

 

That's the problem, as others have stated it needs an internal drain. I would have the company that installed it fix it or this will happen whenever it gets below freezing. Do you know what company installed it?

 

No I do not know

 

The installer doing mine also did not know how to install them properly, even though they sold them. They reused the exterior drain line because running it to the laundry sink 20' away seemed too difficult for them. They had to come back and fix it as the line freezes in the winter. They most likely mis-sized the intake and exhaust piping also as it developed an issue shutting off due to not enough pressure (good airflow). A much better company figured that out and just popped out the cutouts for pulling in internal air. No more issues.