2023 Taco with Dead Battery Today

BLUF: Experienced Premature Battery Failure on 9mo Old Truck w/ OEM Battery. Experience and Opinions Sought.

Situation:
Truck is pretty close to stock.
Sat in driveway for 2 days.
Tried to start today and it just clicked until I pushed the S/S button a second time.

Condition:
Still has the stock Toyota Battery. Nothing has been added or wired diretly to the battery other than OEM Wires.
All Toyota Lights and Switches were off.
Amateur Radio was off / tapped to fuse that is off with engine - did read 8.6v when the engine tried starting up.
Viofo Dash Cam is hooked to a switched and unswitched (two separate) fuses and DOES HAVE a battery protector that is supposed to shut it off if the battery gets around 11.5 v.
No other electronics plugged in.

Temp Remedy:
Jump started it and drove it 5 minutes to the store.
While driving I let the Amateur Radio measure voltage - sat between 12.8 and 13.3.
Let it sit for 30 minutes while in the store.
Normal Push Button Started it and drove it 5 minutes to the House.
While driving I let the Amateur Radio measure voltage - sat between 12.6 and 11.5.

Need:
1. Battery Recommendation. When / If it is time to replace I want to get a good battery.
2. Any value in AGM? I think yes but curious to what you think?
3. Theory on the cause of the issue. What do you think did this? I'm guessing the Viofo Dash Cam but I know this group will look beyond the obvious and I'm sure someone else has had this issue before.

 

I haven't had a good experience with the OEM Toyota batteries. I replaced 3 in 3 years all under a 1yr warranty. The last one has been in for about 3yrs now and I need to replace it again because it won't start the truck on cold days if it sits for more than a day or two. Only reason it has lasted these couple years is because it's been parking in my garage.

That said, a jump pack is your friend and my plan is to go with an Interstate from Costco because of the warranty. AGM is a better battery but comes with its own issues because of the high voltage needed to charge properly. Check out the link in my signature for some feedback I got from others.

 

ON IT! Thank you!

 

Why would you not get this replaced using your warranty? I don't buy this "all oem batteries are bad" crap.

 

It's a fair question.
Because....
1. I'm not convinced the battery is the issue. Could be something else.
2. If I do need a battery, I want to upgrade it. Not because OEM is crap but because of the critical role the battery plays. Even if the OEM is a really good battery, I still want to upgrade it. I don't want to get out into the middle of the back-country, shut the truck off to eat lunch or go camping and then find out I should have sent in change of address cards before I left because I'm now living in the desert.
3. I have to get an appointment for sometime during the work week 5 to 8 days out. If this is a battery issue (maybe?) can I afford to dick around for a week gambling on it working?

Ideally Toyota would drive out to my house, diagnose the charging system and battery, replace everything before sundown and leave me a six pack of Miller Highlife for my troubles. I don't think that's happening.

 

I dunno, sounds like parasitic draw somehow.

 

If it is not the battery then the dashcam battery protector seems to have failed at its job
or you have some other patristic drain but the dashcam is were I would start

 

Just put a voltage meter on it.

Truck off - 12.8v
Truck Running @ Idle 13.70v
Truck Running at 2k RPM 13.75v

 

Don't have anything positive to say about the oem batteries that come stock. Mine was replaced under warranty with a Toyota Truestart 84 month warranty (lasted about 5 years) and eventually swapped for a 24F AGM Everstart from Walmart.

The AGM from Walmart is about 5lbs heavier than oem, 4 year free replacement warranty, about $160 and has been running solid for almost 2 years with several aftermarket accessories (amps, sub, lights, ect).

I did pick up an aftermarket battery strap from off grid engineering, but the oem battery strap will sort of work until you find a replacement.

I doubt your dash cam is contributing to any parasitic draw. Most likely a junk oem battery.

 

I should also mention I'm still using the stock tune (no aftermarket flash to "properly" charge AGM battery). I do top it off with a Noco genius 10 charger when I remember and also keep a noco boost in the truck, but haven't needed it yet.

 

The battery isn’t a year old, drive back to dealer. Or if you have a “few adds” I’d check for paradraws. Turn everything off including ignition.
Put an amp meter between pos of battery and the removed battery cable. Should be zero. If not. Start pulling fuses until it goes away. Bad battery.. I doubt it

 

I would try to figure out if you have a fault with one of your installs, because it’s only going to happen again.

 

NOCO Jump Pack has been on the install list for a while.
I plan on installing it under the passenger seat and running a USB to it.

That might have just been bumped-up on the list.

 

Probably easier to just keep it in the glove compartment or center console or one of the door pockets. Would be a pain to hardwire it back to the battery. Well worth the $100 whichever way you go though.

 

A lot of factory batteries fail due to when its on the lot it doesnt get maintained properly.

This battery should be replaced under warranty, do it at least once. You have an expensive truck with warranty. Use it.

Buy an AGM later on.

 

Have the battery load tested somewhere, it does sound like you have a draw coming from something.

 

This variations in voltage while the engine is running tells me something in the charging system is amiss. At idle with no electronics running, the voltage should be 13.5 volts, give or take .5. Throw on the fan, wipers, high beams, fogs, etc, and voltage will drop to 13, maybe lower, but should never go below 12.6. Over 2K rpm. It will reach highest voltage, ideally 14 volts. Note that ambient temps will also affect voltage at idle; voltage goes down a bit in hotter ambient temps. I wouldn't rule out a faulty ecu either.

 

Ambient temps are running right at 67 with a cool gentle breeze. Nothing running there to heat or cool.
All ACC off. Only thing running are Daytime Running Lights, Turn Indicators when Turning and Brake Lights when Braking.

I did get it tested at O'Rieley. Both turned out good but the two guys there said might be alternator too.

Going to Trickle Charge tonight and see where this goes.
I've disconnected the dash cam so that won't draw either.

 

OK - Went to put the DelTran Battery Tender on it and decided to test the voltage one last time.

Truck off - 12.75v
Truck Running @ Idle 13.90v
Truck Running at 2k RPM 13.92v

Saturday Greg will come along and solve this issue because Friday Greg is done with it for tonight.
Whiskey Time.

Catch y'all in the AM

EDIT: Corrected DelTon to DelTran.

 

My truck wouldn't start a few days ago. Of course it was -35. Yes minus 35. A kind stranger gave me a boost.
I didn't drive again until I had an appointment at dealership. They replaced battery under warranty. Truck was bought new 14 months ago.
Only time this has happened to me in 50+ years of owning vehicles and many were brand new.
I checked everything many times with meter after new 1 installed but don't trust Toyota batteries. Hopefully this 1 will last 4 years. I've calendared 48 months for replacement. With a Costco, Etc , probably, no agm.
I would suggest you get replacement at least under warranty don't know why you wouldn't.