Coil Spring Swap

So I have two contradictory sets of advice regarding my front coilovers on my 2005 Tacoma, and I would appreciate any insights.

I wanted to run a coilover with the reservoir at the front, and wanted continuity on the brands that I chose. I went with all Icon brand; however, once installed the rear was raked out even though I was at full recommended preload at the front.

I called Icon and they said absolutely do not install another spacer for lift.
I talked to my mechanic and he threw in a 1/2" spacer, and he said it would be fine.
Then I called the manufacturer back, and once they realized that I had a 50lb bumper, they recommended swapping for the stiffer spring.

Question is:
Who should I trust?
Is there any tutorial to swap coil springs without replacing the entire coilover?

Would like to get this thing off the jacks!
Appreciate ya!

 

How much is the front currently lifted and what is the current coil specs? 600? You need to pull the coilovers to swap the springs

 

Here are the current lift heights:
Front Driver: 39.5"
Front Passenger - 40.28"
Rear Driver - 41.41"
Rear Passenger - 41.82"

From Icon:
"The Tacoma coilovers are built with an ICON standard production 650lb/in coil spring.
ICON offers a heavier rate coil spring option that is a 700lb/in spring rate."

 

How are you taking measurements? 650 is plenty for these trucks. How much preload do you currently have on those coils? Take the spacer off

 

I'm measuring from the base / I have 32x10x5.5 wheels / I was using a lazer measurement.
2" preload measured threads

 

Threads don't matter, take a measurement of the coil length with no weight on them

 

Whelp. It's all taken apart in pieces as of now. I will remember for next time.
Any ideas based on given information? We were thinking of planning a trip soon. @Strictlytoyz

 

Well, you want some rake for when you actually load the bed. If you don't care about that the max I'd go in the front is 2.5" of lift. Adjust the rear to match. Not reccomended to stack lifts i.e. what your mechanic did. Typically you don't want more than 2" of preload on the coils. If you need more preload go up in coil weight. For example you most likely have 14" coils. When installed with no weight, the coil measurement shouldn't be less than 12" or you could run into coil bind issues. Theres a lot to consider when setting ride height. Extended and collapsed lengths of the coilover being one of em. Accutune has a lot of articles with good information. What exactly are you trying to accomplish?

 

Thank you @Strictlytoyz that is very helpful

My goal with my build would be something comfortable in the dunes, without necessarily going to a long travel build. In short, cost-efficiency, as an unfortunate cliché, would be a good blanketed term. All of us are chasing the idea of the perfect custom truck that is cloudy soft over whoops and obstacles over high speeds. Now that I'm older, I realize that it comes with a huge price tag as well as a lot of trial and error. I always end up wanting more, and going cheap has gotten me into an untrustworthy ride. I get into impulse buys without knowing which product is right - instead mislead by flashy trucks that I see on the street.

The perfect custom build is a cash grab because we are being sold expensive products with a false promise since a very narrow few amount of people can afford to spend all of their time or income on a vehicle that does not have any utility other than winning races. All of which requires networking and is a career. The product is envy and it comes at a high price. I'm not sure anyone is capable of being able to live without envy, and I am surely a perpetrator of envious purchases. On the other hand, envy is inherent in all marketing and is what drives sales up - demand. I can only have my own perfect truck if I have infinite currency and infinite knowledge and if I could make it myself. Two components I can get - currency and making choices on which products to buy. Now to remove the truck from the conversation - there will always be someone that we all envy. The only thing one can do is recognize your envy, and choose to emote and manifest in a healthy way. This maybe an inherent male behavior with cars, but women also envy one another. Like any other race, there will always be a victor and a loser.

My goal is to be the loser, but maybe win in another aspect that doesn't have to do with speed.

• Reliability - capable of having fun without mechanical failures
• Cost Efficacy - Fuel efficient, affordable
• Visual Appeal - looking good on the curb
• Performance - ability to go over obstacles but not to the extent where I am racing

Back to my original question:
Does anyone know how to swap spring coils safely at home?
Maybe its time to sell.

 

You'll need a spring compressor. Loosen the coil preload nut all the way (blue arrow). With the coil compressed you can remove the coil plate on the bottom of the coilover (red arrow) and the coil will slide out the bottom

 

Your Icon's come standard with a 13" long 650 lb spring. If you can't get enough lift out of them it's best to go to a longer 14" 650 spring. 95% of trucks out there do not need a 700 lb spring, they ride rough and break parts.

Did Icon sell you 700's? IMO return them and get some 14" 650's.

https://eibach.com/product/1400.300.0650S

You should be setting the front ride height based on droop travel. Measure hub to fender at ride height and again at full droop (tires off the ground) and get that number as close to 2" as you can. Without sufficient droop travel you can get ride quality issues that most think is X brand of shock when it's just an incorrect setup.

Take your shocks to any alignment or auto repair shop, they should have a Branik or similar spring compressor to swap springs for you for a nominal fee.

 

Why the longer coil when more preload will have the same result. Theoretically, he needs a heavier coil if he cant achieve the lift he needs on 650's, no? Not saying he can't. I'm running 500# coils with a lot of weight (full skids, bumpers, winch etc...)

 

The longer spring can hold more weight, it sounds weird but it works.

The most "preload" you can run on Icon 13" 650 spring is 2" of threads showing, if you need more lift than what that is providing you it's best to go with a longer spring first. You want the lowest rate necessary to get the desired lift height. Most think they need a lift to clear bigger tires, when they need to clearance their vehicle with BMC, fender trimming, ect since the tires occupy the same space when the suspension cycles not matter the ride height.

 

Going to disagree with you here, especially that first sentence. A 650# coil is a 650# coil regardless of length. It will still take 650 pounds of force to compress 1" wether it's a 5" or 20" length coil. All you're doing by getting a longer coil is introducing more initial preload...essentially the same as just adding more preload with the collar. Threads showing has nothing to do with how much a coil is preloaded. If he cant get the lift he needs with a 650# coil by preloading without getting into coil bind he needs to go up in spring rate.

 

https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/coilover-spring-rates-for-toyota-tacoma-4runner/

Check this out

 

700lb coils with weight and tuned shocks keeping lift height in specs per @AccuTune Offroad / KINGS Spec will not ride ruff. Ask me how I know

 

1. Spray some lube in the threads.
2. Loosen the preload collar all the way. You need either a 3/8" dia. pin punch or the Icon spanner wrench for this.
3. Compress the spring with a compressor. Forces should be lower with the preload collar backed off all the way.
4. Slide out the lower spring perch.
5. Pull out the spring.
6. Reverse process with new spring.
7. Tighten preload collar. Finish adjustment on the truck.

And Icon was right, spacers paired with coilovers will overextend the front suspension at full droop. You may see symptoms like CV joint bind while off-road, which would likely cause the CV to grenade.