Long Travel BS Thread

I would be hitting up JDFab. They have shown that they get the tubes nice and tight to the cab and I believe they do have files for cages they have already done in Tacoma's. I would also discuss any future plans you might have so they can take that into consideration. Such as to do you ever plan to link it, back half it etc.

 

I’d say similar but not the same
I have closed cell non stick sheet on the back wall of the truck and doors that I had started with
Took it all out cause the improvement of sound and thermal wasn’t that good.
Noico red foam is legit like a squishy styrofoam type material and you can buy it in a thin or thick mil and they recommend you seam tape all of the sheets after placement for “best” condition.
Where’s the closed cell stuff is usually stiff and ridged by comparison;

the noico is also extremely light
So it didn’t actually add any weight unlike the closed cell sheets I had in the doors and back wall.

I appreciate and applaud all the sound deadener anyone does to their car cause loud cars suck;
But as a comparison
My Silverado makes 506 to the wheel and even on the highway at 90
I can whisper in my truck

the comparison in sound between my taco and my Silverado when referring to sound deadener
My Silverado is way quieter because I had not added any noico red to the taco, instead it still had the closed cell sheets and when I tossed those out for cage prep it was 35lbs of material removed whereas enough boxes of noico to lay down two layers wouldn’t even get near 5lbs for the whole cab

ideally when/if the Silverado is ever caged I left all that material off of the body panels that get cut out so, theoretically I could actually make the Silverado quieter if I hadn’t left all those voids

even my ceiling is two layers

 

I have used both noico red and this siless. I say it’s the same, because well. It’s the same. Absolutely nothing rigid about this stuff. It’s a soft foam with a butyl backing.

 

So you aren’t referring to the MLV style foam that most dudes buy?
(I was thinking you were talking about the same material that comes OEM in most cars )


Edit:noico also has zero asphalt/butyl only a thin layer of glue/tac

 

I have a case of Silles and a case of the noico, they are totally the same, the noico just has color in the adhesive

 

Oh so that’s not a typo
That’s a brand name? Lmao
I did NOT know

no asphalt tho
Just that thin ass glue

 

$75 Siless Liner 157 mil (4 mm) 51 sqft Car Sound Deadening Closed Cell Foam & Heat Insulation mat - PE Foam Sound Deadener Material & Heat Barrier

https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Deadening-Foam-157mil-Insulation/dp/B095P85BB7?th=1

its not asphalt shit, its the same foam as the noico, they even have varying thicknesses that line up with the noico too.

the butyl stuff (insert brand here) is still the recommended mass damper under the foam.

 

$50 Siless Liner 314 mil 18 sqft Sound Deadening mat - Sound Deadener Mat - Car Sound Dampening Material - Sound dampener - Sound deadening Material Sound Insulation - Car Sound deadening

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LH1X7QX

Noico RED 315 mil 9.5 sqft Car Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell Deadening Material (PE Foam Sound Deadener)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QWXXSTB


Totally identical
I agree
Use this since noico is gone

 

@WormSquirts
I see the links arrived; how’d the box do? you get to play with them yet?


*drain holes are OP btw, annoyed my Bk links don’t have them like the DD did*

 

Pretty sure Braeden is at KoH.

 

Just got back form KOH and got my prerunner juices flowing harder than ever. I've had a bolt on LT 2005 Silverado in the past and I miss it more than anything. I either need someone to talk me into going LT on my 1999 Tacoma or talk me out of it. My wife wants me to go LT because she misses it more than I do (I do not think she knows exactly how much that silverado cost to build )

 

Explains why the box was signed for by “RAWLS”

 

Based on market prices right now and lead times
You’ll be pitching out way more than you did on the Silverado.
If that doesn’t dissuade you
Then send it, shocks on the LT classifieds pop up often
And sometimes first gen fiberglass too

 

Keep an eye on Selloffroad on instagram too, a lot of good shocks and bypasses show up on there frequently.

 

Lead times don't bother me as much. It's not my daily. Money scares me the most. I am a saver and trying to get out of that just saving until I die with big bank account I never got to enjoy. I also don't want to be the guy who goes mid travel and regrets it in a year.
I think to get me going I am going to start with the small stuff a lot of first gen guys do later on down the road.
- Battery Relocation
- More prerunner style bumper
- (anything of the other small things you guys can think of form experience)
- Start in the back (because I just got 2.5 fox DSC up front and I am very happy with those my old coils were absolutely shot). In the back start with a bed cage and SUA. If anyone knows about a first gen SUA kit let me know because I haven't seen any recently.
- Cage - because I want my wife to enjoy it too and I don't want her in there without a cage
- Then probably a cookie cutter LT front end
- Once I start to get tired of the SUA possibly go back and link it depending on how I'm feeling about it, but that's how I lost my Silverado was once I cut it up in college I ran out of money to finish it

 

Let me know if i can help with kings

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-long-travel-discussions.750980/#post-26748678

Several links to mild to wild build threads and walk around videos for 95.5-04 trucks are in the first few posts here.

 

I’ve was looking at this thread when I got home. There’s unlimited knowledge on TW. Thank you for giving me the path.

 

Linked guys and gals, are you running brake lines down the upper link with small flex loops at the rod ends, or are you running back the frame and using really long braided stainless lines to go straight down to the axle?

Thinking about welding on some tabs to the upper link and running a hard line down the top of the upper link so that I can use an 8 inch braided line at each end vs having to have 2 foot long braided lines waiting to get snagged on something.

 

The first way you said is the better of the two ways to do it (only way out of the two really with a 4 link).

@20:00 is an example you could look at. This link should go straight to that time, but @20:00 if it's broken.

https://youtu.be/V2DhhSeqmyA?t=1200