How hard is this to install myself? Anything else I'm missing?

Before ya'll roast me, I know this lift isn't the best for ride quality, but I don't do any off-roading, I drive a 2WD Tacoma. The only off-roading I do is maybe logging roads and dirt back roads.

My questions:

Am I missing anything? I bought the sway bar relocation bracket, not sure if it's actually required or not, but it was only $30 so worst case I return it. I wanted to keep my blocks under 2" to avoid axle wrap, I read AAL creates more axle warp than a 1-2" block, and most people say just do an entire leaf kit instead of AAL, so I opted for a simple block (install seems easier too). I rarely drive the truck (3rd vehicle), didn't want to spend $800-$1000 just for a small 2" lift. I would like to keep some rear factory rake, so went with the 1.5" block over the 1".

Wondering how hard this is to install myself. I have a garage full of tools and jacks, and installed coilovers on many cars in the past, so would this be super hard? Trying to go as cheap as possible just to get the look I desire, I know I would need an alignment after ($60), but trying to avoid paying someone $500-$600 in labor to install this lift if I can. Any specific tools I should have handy? The vehicle is 2022, so shouldn't have much rust.

Thanks

 

No special tools required and you will not need the sway bar relocation

 

When does the sway bar relocation kit come into play?

 

Pretty easy if you've done similar stuff before.
The front spacer bolts onto the coilover and goes back in.
The rear just need to remove ubolts, lower shock bolt and brake line bracket.
Lower axle enought to fit the spacer between axle and springs.
Install new ubolts and torque to spec.

Breaker bar, an impact and torque wrench are helpful.

 

I relocated my swaybar to a shelf in the garage.

 

What's the point of it lol?

 

The sway bar itself reduces body roll when driving on the highway. Some people remove it when they install stiffer springs and also for better articulation. The sway bar relocation is used if the sway bar makes contact with suspension components after the lift is installed.

 

And the thick part of the tapered block points rear,
80ft-lbs on torque wrench, keep both sides of u-bolt even.

 

Thank you, so it tapers down toward the front, right? Was it a good choice to go with tapered blocks? I was going to do a 1" block but most of them weren't tapered, this company makes all of theirs tapered, does this just help keep the alignment of the driveline or something?

 

As for your first post, AAL actually help against axlewrap.

 

When you install the blocks get everything together & before tightening down use a tape measure to make sure the axle is square to the frame.

 

I found some TW threads hating on AAL's and saying they create more axle problems sooner than just a 1"-2" block. Either way, the general consensus seems to be spend $800-$1000 on some shocks and an AAL, or upgrade everything with brand new leafs too, or, go the cheap route and 2" lift. Most people online from the forum posts I've read said 1 to 1.5" blocks shouldn't do much, it seems to be when you go over 3"

Figured the blocks easier to install too

 

Yea I had a leaf come out of the c-clamp and miss my face by inches. @diabetiktaco seen it happen. Not a fun experience.

 

So these 1.5” I got just so I’m understanding correctly, the higher thicker end goes towards the front of the car, and the tapered end where it slops off should be facing the rear tailgate side? Why is this exactly? What does the tapered blocks do vs non-tapered? Why face it rear? I would have assumed it would be forward but idk why lol

 

Yes. The way you described it is the way it goes. It goes in that way to maintain the drive shaft angles.

 

Thanks for clarifying. I’m guessing the kit will also come with instructions on how to have them facing, but wouldn’t surprise me if it didn’t, so I appreciate it.

edit- this video shows otherwise?
https://youtu.be/1WlXJaOg4Ts?si=UjNlVR1lXB_ztmlS

 

You should consider replacing your u bolts they are kind of a one and done item. Once you have torqued on the threads you should replace.

 

The kit comes with new Ubolts

 

I point my wedges forward so diff points up, decreasing pinion angle. Idk what reason there'd be to point wedges to the back other than...

 

Does it even matter if mines rwd and I don’t have a transfer case?