FYI: New fuel injectors solved problems

On cold starts it was taking 5-6 cranks to start, more than it used to. On warm starts I was getting behavior that I can only describe as the engine roaring alive after only one crank, too soon, as it does a few cranks too rapidly, and then the engine finishes starting and sounds normal thereafter. The best theory I heard was a leaky injector was dripping fuel into the engine, causing a rich start for a certain time period. Otherwise if you wait some hours the leaked fuel evaporates and the engine takes an extra couple cranks to regain fuel pressure it lost.

I used Motor West refurb Denso injectors, and Timmy's video.

Aside from the injectors, I put in a new fuel pressure regulator & O ring, gaskets for everything, and some heater, fuel, and vacuum hoses.

Some fuel dumped out when I removed the #6 injector, just before the FPR. I don't remember if it came from the bottom of the injector, as in a leaky injector, or from the top, as in a partially clogged injector. Unless that's just where the fuel remained after I depressurized the fuel system and it means nothing.

Given that I replaced the FPR, I wouldn't know if the FPR was actually the problem.

Now it starts up on the third crank every time, and smoother. At 60mph the MPG went up from 23 to 25 as measured by OBD2.

Edit: oops removed an unrelated pic. I had a fuel leak at first lol

 

Bravo! Well done.

 

Here's the parts I used

• crows foot set for torque wrench Amazon
• throttle body gasket FEL-PRO 61038 amazon
• reman fuel injectors Motor West
• EGR gaskets - rockauto
• knock sensor harness DORMAN 926771 rockauto
• intake manifold 4 gasket set
  $52 FEL-PRO MS95898 FEL-PRO MS 95898 Engine Intake Manifold Gasket Set for Toyota Tacoma
  FEL-PRO MS95898 rockauto
• fuel pressure regulator 2328062030 Toyota
• FPR O ring & spares for injectors 9030107001 Toyota
• 6 metal gaskets for fuel rails 9043012026 Toyota

 

Atta boy. You did right!

 

Motor West has such good reviews here that I had to get them.

The hard part was the tight space behind the engine, trying to get everything off and keeping track. My model has the EGR and two VSVs back there. But I was prepared with written steps all the way through, and the vacuum diagram. The fuel rails and injectors were easy. I triple checked afterwards, no leaks around the rails area, except I learned that it's a bad idea to replace a fuel hose like the return hose from the FPR unless you have a perfect match with a snug fit and a strong hose clamp.

 

Yes, I too had a rough time at the rear of the engine. No clearance to properly torque the fuel rail feed banjo bolt to the fuel rail (passenger side). Had to do a bit of finagling to get it right. I also cracked the plastic part that covers the injector wiring.

Here's an excellent write-up by 1997tacomaV6 that might help others with damaged injector wiring loom protectors.

 

I used Tesa tape last year during my valve cover job as in the thread you linked. Good stuff. The plastic wire looms were mostly intact, just cracked some, and I simply wrapped the tape around them. However all of the tabs on the plastic were broken off, and the bolts were gone too, so no bolting it down. Any harm in leaving it free? I don't plan on going in there again, unless I check valve clearances at some point.

I actually didn't have a problem torqueing the fuel rail banjo bolts. Crows foot sockets slip in there pretty good.

 

I didn't use a crow's foot to torque the banjo bolts because I was afraid of over-torquing them.

 

I ignored that and sent it. It's going to be over torqued with the crows foot, but only by a couple ftlbs given the size of my tools. Who knows if my torque wrench is accurate. I'd rather go over than risk a fuel leak.

 

Thank you for your feedback!