120k MAINTENACE

Hey all, first real post ,

Approaching 120K on my 10 DBLCB LB V6 4X4 SR5.

Took it to the dealer before a road trip in December for an alignment, rotation and inspection, and they told me the front crank seal is leaking. Nothing too crazy. I have an Excel sheet that I have been tracking all maintenance since ownership in 2021 with 78k miles. In the last 20K I have replaced:

FRONT WHEEL BEARING AND HUBX2
HVAC BLOWER
WIPERS BOSCH ICON DRIVER
WIPERS BOSCH ICON PASSENGER
A/F SENSOR DRIVER UPSTREAM
02 SENSOR DRIVER DOWNSTREAM
A/F SENSOR PASSENGER UPSTREAM
BATTERY TIEDOWN
SERPENTINE BELT
BED STIFFENERS (AOF-AP-307435)
BATTERY
TIRE ROTATION
ALIGNMENT
BRAKE FLUID (

$11 00475-1BF03 Brake Fluid - 12 oz.

00475-1BF03)
POWER STEERING FLUID (00718-ATF00)
CABIN AIR FILTER K&N (

$36 VF2005 K&N LIFETIME Cabin Air Filter: Premium, Washable, Clean Air for your Cabin: Compatible with 1999-2023 Dodge/Pontiac/Subaru/Toyota: Dart, Vibe, Liberty, Tacoma, Voltz, VF2005

VF2005)

I'm compiling a list of things to do with this oil change, lubing prop shaft and spark plugs, PCV valve, brake pads, and just general other things since ill be dedicating a day or so to it, with the crank seal leaking I'm inclined to replace all pulleys as well since ill be there anyway. Will prob do the Diffs and Tranny since it will be about 30k since they were last done.

Is there anything else I should be looking for or replacing while I'm in there? I don't see anything else leak wise or noise wise. But any insight would be greatly appreciated. -Sam

 

Coolant was due at 100K, per Toyota maintenance schedule. That being said, I did my first coolant change at 140K but I tested it to make sure it still had protective qualities. At that time I also replaced thermostat, belt and hoses.

ATF flush due every 60K if you follow severe service schedule, which many of us do, or drain/refill every 30K.

Everything else on your list looks good.

 

Looks like a good plan/complete list. How bad is the crank seal leak? Minor seep, occasional drip or a complete mess? Consider doing the PCV first, before you tackle the oil seal job if it's not the latter. It may cure the leak, and buy you some time until you are fully ready/prepared to take everything apart to replace the seal. Don't rely on the "rattle test": It's a $7.00 part: Replace it. Replace the hose as well, ($12) it likely has cracks and is causing a vacuum leak. Marginal or failed PCV components can cause a pressurized crank-case condition: Bad for other seals and components on the engine.

I just replaced my PCV and hose on my truck. (126,000 miles). It still rattled when I shook it, but it had some sludge and gunk in it (it has avery nasty job to do) and the sounds shaking the new one are a huge difference from the original. The truck now runs smoother as well.

 

Good to know, For the front crank seal they said it was a minor seep, minor staining no drips but quoted like 600 to replace it, they were also trying to do plugs and various other crap 10K miles early. So I gladly declined. I actually don't know if the PCV is bad or not. Just throwing it in there since the mileage and it's super cheap so why not. Good-looking for the hose too, Might as well throw it in there. I have an older M3, so I've been one to replace all connecting parts with new when possible. The coolant got done at a major 90k service before I moved, road tripped about 6K miles across the west and north part of the country, so I wanted to cover my bases leaving sunny San Diego and going to Wisconsin.

 

Hoses might work as well. Was the thermostat a pain? I've been considering it just for preventative, but there seems to be a divide. Some say do it, others say if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

Diff fluid change, trans fluid change.

inspect your CV axles and front suspension parts (ball joints etc.)

 

There is no 120k service. Do what you need to do when you need to do it. Inspect it to determine that. That’s why inspections exist.

factory doesn’t have a 120k service
It has regular services every often.
If the vehicle gets a service every 5k. And it got one at 115k. That means it gets another one at 120k. At minimum. And then anything else it needs.

that’s found during inspection, known to be a wear item, failed, or found in a TSB search.

just saw a thread where guys crank pulley broke and damaged the crank. If I was going in there to work on that area I’d throw a new pulley on it.

 

I am not one to just blow off and disregard minor leaks to save money. Small leaks inevitably end up as bigger leaks. I'd say clean the area (crank seal) and watch after the PCV r&r at least until the hot weather returns.

One other thing maybe to look at are the steering-rack boots. I recently had a dealer proclaim that my "steering rack boots are damp: new rack will be needed in the future". I checked and they looked like they had the normal road-grime from 10 years and 126,000 miles of travel, but no drips or wet surfaces. Searching for info this indicated that wet or damp boots are a fairly common issue, but not all of them develop it. Small amounts of PS fluid gets past the seals as they wear and accumulates in the boots over time. Consensus was to monitor it and the fluid level in the reservoir for more than minor fluid level changes and leave it until the boots are dripping or develop cracks and fail. I have put about 30,000 miles on the truck since I got it and the power steering fluid level has never dropped.

This type of event/thing makes a strong case for rotating your service and maintenance among a revolving list of 2-3 dealerships and local shops. I do this. A different dealership did the previous oil change and never said a word about damp steering rack boots. Go figure.

 

Clean and re evaluate. Make sure the PCV system is in good working order.

a properly functioning PCV system can apply vacuum to the crankcase so oil is sucked in.
A failed PCV system can cause excessive crankcase pressure resulting in oil being blown out past seals aka “leak”

idk what seals are ideal, stock, or available
Generally brown rubber is old school and wears metal
Newer is black Teflon-lined PTFE seals that cost more, are harder to install
But have less wear on metal due to PTFE.

 

It is relatively easy, and comes attached in a plastic housing so you dont have to worry about orienting it properly. I would wait to replace it at next coolant change, at 150K. Stick with Aisin. I first got a Motorad and, even though the temp gauge never went over halfway mark, the average temp, despite it being rated for 180, was 200-205 degrees. The Aisin averages 185-190.