AC problems

Hey all, having this issue with my AC not being so cold anymore. Don’t know if it’s a leak but I can tell the AC switch still activates the pump so there’s still freon in the system. Could be a very slow leak because I experienced the AC not being so cold during last summer. It seemed like it was just cold coming from the driver side next to the window and the rest of the vents just a little cooler than ambient air. Anyone else experience this? I figure I ask before I dig into it though it would suck if I had to take off the dash.

 

Sounds like it's low on refrigerant or you have a blend door issue.

Also have you checked/replaced your cabin air filter?

Easy check to see if you have a refrigerant issue or blend door issue is to check if the suction (larger) line is cold with the A/C running on high, if it is but your air coming out of the vents isn't cold you likely have a blend door issue. If it isn't you have a refrigerant issue (low charge or something else).

 

My first step is to evacuate and recharge the system along with dye to check for possible leaks. Cabin filter has just been replaced as well. I’ll check that line. Thanks!

 

check the high pressure side hose pipe. If its covered in road grime and oily looking I bet the rubber hose portion has a pinhole leak. Mine leaked from there and it was a very slow leak.

this is the AC line that connects from the condenser to the compressor so it goes from a hard line off the condenser to a rubber line, hence the part name "hose pipe"

 

Those are the same symptoms I had when I had a R134A leak years back.

Cool on drivers side and gets progressively warmer as you move towards the center and passenger side vents.

 

That’s what I’m dreading if the leak under the dash. Where was your leak?

 

I have a 2013 and I had a leak in my evaporator 1 1/2 years ago. I had it coolong on one side --and warm on the other (refrigerant leak). I also noticed a weird smell in the cabin. I had a feeling it was the evaporator-- and it was....... I decided that I would be keeping the truck for a few more year (instead of buying another). So I had it fixed. almost $2k... I know someone else that had an issue with his 2015 tacoma-- and it ended up being a relay.

 

Thanks for pointing out to check the relay. I’m gonna do a leak down test first but already preparing for the worst. I will take the dash apart myself to get to the evaporator that way I know everything will be out back correctly. I’m just dreading it because looks like a lot of work and wiring to disconnect.

 

Why are you assuming the leak is at the evaporator? It could be anywhere in the system (hose, condenser, Scraeder valve, compressor). Have you looked for a leak with a UV light or with a

$26 Elitech Freon Leak Detector Halogen Refrigerant Gas Leak Detector HVAC Tester AC Sniffer R22 R410A R134A 1234YF, WJL-6000S

freon sniffer (they are cheap tools that could be had for about $20 which makes looking for leaks much easier...I prefer the freon sniffers)? It could be the evaporator or it could be something easier to access.

 

Just preparing for the worst. Yes, it could be anywhere. Will be ordering the dye and light so I can investigate or is what you linked better?

 

Light vs sniffer is personal preference. I prefer the sniffer because you don't have to see the leak which is sometime not possible or is in a spot that's not accessible. The sniffer works best with system running under pressure. You can also set the sensitivity of it. But for a system that is not running or completely out of refrigerant, the light is better.

 

High pressure line and condenser.

 

Recharge it. Measure quantity removed. Add UV dye.
Inspect cabin filter condition. Observe kick on behavior of compressor/clutch and verify metal lines turning hot and cold as needed. Measure temps of outside/ambient, and temps at vents for within spec.
Inspect for leaks.

Some leaks (if you even have any) can be harder to detect, like when people resort to using a sniffer tool in an area that otherwise isn't accessible to visually inspect.

Verify condenser is not dirty.

Inspect service port schrader valves. I had one go bad and replaced with a kit from auto parts store during a recharge.

 

UPDATE:

Took it to an AC shop and had it evacuated and recharged. They did a pressure check and also checked for leaks with the added dye and nothing, blows nice and cold. Tech said it was low on freon but enough pressure to keep thr switched engaged. Had me come back 10 days later for another pressure and visual check and still nothing. I suspect it could have been tampered with. Thanks for all your suggestions!