Tacoma offroad model tire pressure

Stock tires, not sure about the reference about passenger tires, I said nothing about that at all, although I could have clarified for those that could not assume stock tires since it is only 2 months old, my fault there. I know some people change wheels and tires immediately, I have not.

The "P" is short for "P-metric," which is a designation by the Tire and Rim Association for a "passenger car" tire type. A "P" signifies the tire was designed to primarily be used on passenger vehicles, which can include cars, minivans, SUV's and other light-duty pickup trucks.

You can be as surprised as you like, it's a free country.

 

For the record a TRD OR door sticker

 

Geez, you took offense on that one, which was not my intention. No, I never once said you said they were P-metric. I simply asked because there’s a chance they could have been changed early on, by you or the dealer, and as such could have ended up with P’s that need less pressure without realizing it. Many (most) don’t know the difference between P and euro metric so I had to at least ask.

In that case, consider me surprised.

 

no offense taken, just clarifying my initial post.

It takes a lot more than that to offend me.

 

P metric and standard load tires are fairly closely related, splitting hairs. Just means they dont sell Goodyear Adventures in car sizes, but some Toyo A30's are available in passenger car models.

Running less than cold door placard is wrong, chalk test is wrong. Run what you want.

I only run lower than jam during the cold snaps we get, -30 etc. If I know I'm hauling or running long distances I bump them back up. But I'd never encourage it.

 

They are close, but I’d say it’s enough difference to matter. 265/70R16 on this truck calls for 30 psi. P265/70R16 converted from stock pressure is 27 psi. 10%, that’s enough to consider. He found the results he wanted with even less difference than that so I’d say it does affect the results.

Meanwhile Nissan told me to run 35 in my frontier no matter what tire size or rating I had. That was just plain wrong and for non LT tires was way over inflated. Handled poorly as a result too.

 

The chalk test is a waste of time in my book but I am not judging those that do it. People are going to do what they think that works.

Toyota goes through so much testing with the tires before SOP, I trust what they say and run with that. Use the door jamb sticker if your setup is OEM. Don’t overthink it.

Also, once you start going aftermarket tire size AND wheels then the parameters have been changed.

 

This thread reminds me of the Ford Explorer/Firestone tire blowout blame game in the 90s.

 

The Ford Explorer was not a well handling vehicle to begin with. Anyone who drove one of those early to mid 90s Ford Explorers would probably agree (my mother had a couple of them). I get it was blamed on tire separation but usually underinflation is one of the major causes of that. My mother was pretty good at checking her tire pressure but she did get a free set of tires on her first one to replace the firestones during that time.

This is why we probably have TPMS sensors today.

 

Did already we figure out if the sticker in the door is wrong because someone on the internet knows better ?

if not I’ll check back in a bit

 

so when you google tire chalk testing and large tire corporations like Interco advise on how to do it and the benefit it provides, does that still make it useless?
Also, can you please go on with "a number of other factors"?
So just to clarify here, if I were to go out to my driveway on my nearly brand new tacoma and perform a tire chalk test with a varying range of PSI, the results would all be the same and worthless?
And the previous tire chalk testing I've done on my long travel GX didn't actually work and yielded no tangible evidence? I also think its quite comical you used an example like Brittany Force to try and prove your point, like we can somehow negate the fact that none of our Tacomas are ever going to go over 300mph and regardless of PSI, there's no way you're going to be able to overcome centrifugal force at those tire speeds. So, with that said, since you're bringing up apples to orange comparisons and spewing other info that does not make any sense in regards to the discussion, did you know that male duck billed platypuses are poisionous?

 

I have taken my 2016 TRD Off Road on over 100 fishing trips where my combined weight in the cab and bed exceeded 1,000 pounds each trip. That weight not including my 200 lbs.

I am retired so I do around 40 trips per year, fishing, exploring etc.

Tires were first KO2 265 70 16, and now at 265 75 16 KO2.

I have never gone over 34lb even once for any reason. Not on my 3 previous trucks either.

My daily load when I am not loaded up for a trip is 350 pounds in the back. That from my toolbox and my spare combined. Then my tires at 30lb.

On those loaded up trips I am also off road on very bad pothole and also ATV style trails.

Have never had an issue with uneven tire wear or anything like that. Anything over 32lb for daily driving is a no go for me. Normally at 30lb daily as the KO2s at E load are pretty bumpy tires when combined with my Bilstein 5100 shocks.

No lift kit, but air bags in the rear.

The stock Wrangler tires the truck came with blew up on my first off road trip. Two with sidewall rips.

I am currently on my D load 265 75 16 Nokian snow tires. With sand bags in the rear I am at 530 pounds in the bed and the tires at 28lb daily. Better traction at low pressure in snow and off road. Several off road snow trips recently. Second winter with these snow tires, and all 4 are evenly worn.

 

So your "large tire corporations" statement is only Interco? I hardly consider them large and you won't find anyone bragging about their quality. Interco is a niche tire company that makes novelty tires.

Now if you apply a little logic here you will see something I referenced in a previous response and that was bias tires. A lot of Interco's tires are bias ply. Are you telling me that you are running bias plys? I'm guessing not. Show me where Michelin, Sumitomo, or any of the other real "large" tire companies suggest chalking your tires, I'll apologize and delete all of my posts.

Getting back to the science, I know guys like you hate it when that is pointed out. The reason I reference the examples I do is because they actually use science to determine tire pressure. If it were as simple as chalk, they would do it. You can also see when watching a dragster accelerating what happens to a tire as it spins. Although grossly exaggerated to what you will see in your Tacoma, it is the same thing. You get the same distortion that you would not be able to factor into your chalk nonsense. The contact patch of your tire at rest is much different than spinning 600 RPM at 70mph. Race teams use many factors when they determine their air pressure. Many of these same factors that vehicle manufactures use when they produce their recommended pressure. None of which are the results of running a piece of chalk across the tread to see the neat effects of what is left after rolling a few feet.

So to answer your question, Yes, if you go out to your driveway and perform the chalk test the results would be worthless. Don't waste your time.

 

I can’t fall asleep at night without checking my tire pressure. Does Toyota provide therapy? Is it covered under my warranty?

 

If you use nitrogen and do the chalk test instead of plain ole compressed air, you should be just fine.