Broken crankshaft key leads to tear down and timing service

you’re already in there and it’s piece of mind
the parts sound cheaper than what labor otherwise would be.

one way a chain can wear over time is stretch. If it has stretch one way this is visible by holding it dangling to a new chain back to back seeing which hangs lower. Old one being longer = stretched.

 

Technically they don't stretch, but the rollers wear and they do somewhat elongate. On top of that, the sprockets wear adding to the slop. Over 200k miles? It's likely due.

 

Got this quote from a dealer today. Equals out to about 1080 before tax. Not bad…

 

Done.

 

He forgot to add the two cam sprockets but still pretty good prices for the dealer.

 

Just a heads up, there are parts from the UAE, that will sometimes arrive cheaper than in the US, and also faster than from the US. Which both are odd. However, a few of us have done this. You just have to do some diligence looking up the vendor.

 

OEM only

buy from parts ouq much much cheaper.

 

I bought from parts ouq many times for the Tacoma and my Mazda. Oem parts for significantly cheaper and VERY fast shipping

buy the pulley, the seal and the bolt

 

Is this a reliable site for oem parts?

 

How much does a salvage long block with sub 100k miles cost? I've rebuilt motors a number of times but.. never had any headache w/ a swap.

 

probably thousands.

guess you got lucky. The one manual trans I bought was bad.
Dealers generally don’t do junkyard parts for this reason. Not to mention labor of taking it back out.
Known plenty of folks to go through this. Customer supplies junkyard part. Is advised they’re on their own. They insist. It doesn’t work. Cue music

 

The quote is just for parts

 

So I was looking at sealants to use for the timing cover and was reading in the manual that they recommend using a different one around the water passages. These are the ones that are recommended but I couldn’t help to notice how expensive the coolant sealant is. Are there any good alternatives that anyone knows to that one? I prefer not to pay 80 bucks for a sealant that I barely have to use

 

I used only

$21 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103 for both areas.

 

So, another judgement call here. The wisdom on the internet seems to be torn, and it sounds like you've seen a lot of the posts I was able to find. The 1282B is apparently the proper one to use and is resistant to the pink coolant. Most people don't use that, but some mechanics see failures when other types are used. Other people have seen no issues using the other types. Apparently there is a version of a Toyota FSM out there that calls for 1207B. So, you could be just fine using the 1207B. Aisin is usually the OEM for water pumps and sells their own version, not sure what that is, though. I would use one of those 2 types.

Maybe someone here with some longer-term experience will chime in.

 

I’d hate to use the wrong one and spring a leak after all this

 

If we are strictly talking about OEM sealants then the FSM calls for two,

$90 08826-00100 Toyota Seal Packing - 08826-00100

08826-00100 and

$21 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103. If you get both of those then you should be confident that you are using the right stuff assuming you apply it correctly. If you are looking to save money, then I am sure you can use other products like suggested above. I asked around when I did mine and several techs stated that they just use FIPG 103 for both areas. I ended up going that route.

FYI here is another post referring to sealants.

 

This seems reasonable to me. With proper surface prep and following the directions you should be fine.

 

Found this one for $40 off eBay. Not a bad deal considering what it’s priced everywhere else

 

Btw, here is a link to a post from my head gasket replacement thread. You can see at least see what I did and the concerns I had installing it.