New England B.S. Thread

Putting a couple 2 X 12's down where the wheels travel will help distribute the load more evenly across the entire floor helping to minimize deflection directly underneath where the tires are located and it will also help spread out the load when parked. This may be a quick and relatively cheap solution. It may also be worth a call to the manufacturer to see what he specs are of the building to know if you are overloading it or not. Considering the building is prefabricated and a kit I am sure that it has been engineered and that information should be easily attainable. They may offer a strengthening solution for you as well.

 

I actually found that - 75 PSF if on a solid continuous foundation (concrete pad) 50 PSF if not. It's on crushed stone, so I'd go with the 50. Tractor's footprint (tires on the ground) is probably only 4 sq ft without the loader, so it's more like 400 PSF when you look at it that way.

 

Ouch. Then again, first world stuff. Though the shelving remodel might be a good option for you.

 

Yup, I am discouraged but am reminding myself that I didn't plan the shed with a tractor like this in mind.

Just deciding whether to:

Use the garage for the tractor, cut my losses and have an excessive storage shed for some basic tools.

Use the garage for the tractor and everything else, making the storage and shelving more logical. Cut my losses with the shed and see if maybe someone who can move it wants it for a steal.

Try to reinforce the shed and fix my not fantastic foundation so that also doesn't become an issue with the extra weight.

 

How much of a steal? Lol

 

Hadn't really thought that far ahead. The price probably has to be really good for it to be worth someone's trouble to disassemble/reassemble or try to move it in-tact.

The way I did the foundation is terrible - I was rushing to get it done before a surgery that was going to prevent me from doing the work for a while. Then I sank a trailer full of stone in the yard, it was just a series of issues where I eventually kind of threw up my hands and said this is going to have to do. Now that I step back, I think it's a ticking time bomb (accelerated if I have a heavy tractor in it) and figuring out a way to redo that has been stressing me out. Combine that with the floor strength issue and I'm thinking it might be better for my mental state to just cut my losses rather than invest more time, money, and energy into something I don't truly need.

Thinking aloud, I'd probably be happy (well, more like satisfied despite the massive loss) if I got enough out of it so I could cover materials for a mini renovation of my garage workshop area without going out of pocket. Nothing too crazy - maybe close the workbench wall in with OSB or plywood, bunch of 1x12s for new shelves, build a more sensible workbench/countertop, stuff like that.

 

Was the shield delivered assembled or this was a build in place scenario? It looked like a nice setup when I was there recently!

 

Build in place. It is a nice shed, I am just struggling to see how I can use it now without putting a bunch of work into it.

 

I'd sleep on it but just off my skull as you've explained it I reckon #3 sounds the best if you think the foundation wasn't ideal in the first place

That said, you're talking to someone with a 1 car garage that the entry is too low to get either of our vehicles into so maybe I am not the best to advise. My shed is tiny but it just keeps the out of season stuff handy.

 

A tractor with a proper cover doesn't always have to sit indoors for storage.. 90% of them are left outside in the weather without a cover without issues. My neighbor has a kubota that's been outside for about 4 years since he bought it brand new and all he does is puts a cover over the seat/wheel area.

 

Honestly, that's why they have tip up seats. Plenty of people leave them outside with the seat flipped forward to keep water off it. That's it. I'm sure indoor storage would stay off signs of weathering, but to your point, not a requirement for a tractor.

 

what if you build a lean to off the side of the shed. it could be simply a slanted roof and two walls you don't have to be fully enclosed with doors unless you want to

 

Yup, that's where I'm at - in the summer, I happen to have the garage space since I never park inside. In the winter, I have a canopy I can park under if I really want my truck inside. I don't think it's worth investing time and money into the shed since it isn't really needed. I talked to a friend last night and he said if I think about parting ways with the shed he'd be interested. I'd be inclined to just give it to him and help him move/rebuild it for all the help he's given me over the years.

I park my car hauler to one side and the other side is a bit of a slope and starts encroaching on the yard more than I'd like. I thought about moving the shed to my 16x16 concrete pad and doing that, though. But that would eliminate my pergola which I think would upset my fiancee.

 

Just out of curiosity, and assuming the truck is level/stock tank/stock pump, does anyone know how much gas is supposed to be left when the "get gas now" light comes on?

 

Ive heard supposedly 50 miles so around 2.5 gallons

 

2.5 ish gallons from my experience

 

4 gallons. Confirmed with my Ultragauge, light comes on and it takes 17 or a tad more gallons to fill. Tank capacity is 21 gallons flat.

 

Yesterday my gas light came on and distance to empty said 21 miles . I stopped and filled the tank when it said 5 miles to empty. It took 19 gallons to fill.
so even when the computer says 0 miles to empty , conservatively I'd say 10 more miles before your in trouble.

 

That’s not good for the fuel pump. The voltage regulator is cooled by fuel - I used to make them at a previous job. I fill up at 1/4 tank, typically. Of course you can let it go lower but as a standard practice, it’s best not to.

 

I may have a bunch of parts for sale soon. Looks like my truck may be totaled