Anything welding

also, those same people are likely never going to post their crappy welds that external environmental factors got in the way of making perfect...

 

Mainly posting because I wanted to document some sort of 'instruction' as I sell these 3D kits for those wanting to weld it themselves; I sell the physical components (whether welded or not) but do not own rights to the design so posting it here for those wanting to cut their own.

This is basically how the groups are separated -



Start with the head, as these components slide together easily for tacking it together.

I suggest doing this first as it would be harder slotting and tack welding these pieces if you tack the main piece to the spine too early -



Many of these pictures will show the assembly is upside down; I intend to place this on a desk so I wish to hide the welds and place everything either behind or underneath -



Next step is now attaching it to the spine; little things like a 90 degree magnet or some sort of square means you can ensure everything is aligned before welding -



Next is the rib cage, from front to back you want to use the largest set of ribs and go smaller as you move towards the rear.

An important step here is that the first rib begins on the second slot; the first slot is for the wings -



Set aside your partially assembled bird and move on to the legs by attaching the bottom claws; again I'm placing all my welds on the bottom/underside of my assembly -



Now comes time to attach the pelvic area to the spine; magnets are your friend in keeping everything aligned -



Tack on the remainder of the pelvis -



Moving onto the wings; I like to assemble items right-side up before I turn them over for tack welding -



Next comes the joints -



And now your wings are done -



Put it all together and you're good to go -



Whole thing is like a 5 minute job -



I'll be creating a small base and welding some rod for a "stand up" piece but you can get as creative as you like with these! Some people even hang them up.

The smaller 12 gauge variety is much lighter and definitely takes up less metal so I'd be inclined to sell a few sets, just figured my larger 10 gauge variety would be more appealing. I like to cut these kits with .02" extra play for a nice and easy fitment.

*DISCLAIMER* The provided DXF is not nested nor sized to any specific gauge steel. It is up to you to nest and scale appropriately due to your table's cut parameters and thickness metal preferred.

 

Very nice!

 

is this for the 12 gauge or 10 gauge model?

 

Added my disclaimer, it isn't sized to anything immediately usable.

We all use different kerf widths, and have our own tooling parameters so my actual cut file does not translate to you being able to use it if I provided it to you.

Fusion has built-in pierce clearances and adjusts on its own based on your desired cut tolerances. Some people adjust to have a perfect outside cut, others for a perfect inside cut.

You will always be slightly off more on the outside or inside, until you dial in and balance things out.

Best way I can describe it.

 

I'm trying to get the best adhesion of polymerized oil to steel. This isn't welding but if anyone has my answer I think it would be you guys.

I've been experimenting with polished cast iron and steel pans for a few years now. When polished, they do have improved non-stick properties, but the polymerized coating (seasoning) peels off much easier.

Some Google searches say that the best adhesion is 0.8-3.2 micron surface finish which is 320-800 grit. My 800 tests are still peeling so new idea is to sand to 800 then add deeper scratches.

Is there a uniform way that I can put slightly deeper scratches every 1/4" or so?

 

how high tech are ya looking to go? Plasma deposition / sputtering would work and there are some videos on you tube of people building plasma reactors to do just such things. an I know it has been used commercially to make things stick that should not stick. and a few other interesting high tech products.

I found an article talking about the tech.
https://www.patagonia.com/stories/t...-belay-parka-an-origin-story/story-18179.html

 

Hi all,
I have a really newb question for you guys and I'm hoping that I came to the right place. I am not a welder nor have I ever attempted to weld anything and my knowledge about welding is not so great. I have done a bit of soldering with electronics so my question is this...


Does applied weld melt down with enough heat similar to how solder does? Enough so to be able to pull off a welded part?

A bit of background: I am wanting to undo a sloppy mess that a local exhaust shop did on my TRD headers y-pipe bung. My truck has gone from my daily driver to now my project truck as I'm doing an engine swap and using this downtime as finally being able to get this as well as other things on my truck fixed. I've reached out to a couple shops where they have quoted me $250 for about 2 hours of labor and would basically require cutting out the entire bung area and welding on a new one. The thought of undoing the weld or possibly just cutting and grinding came to mind today.

I'm sure pictures will help provide answers or suggestions. Thanks in advance

Here is the slop I'm dealing with...

 

Most reasonable method is simply cutting it off and welding a new one. That area is too small to do some plasma gouging.

 

That's what I am thinking I may end up having to do. Luckily the original bung is below that slop and so I just need to cut it down enough to expose the original bung then I'll be able to extract the broken stud which is what I wish I would have been able to do in the first place. So is my original question not doable? Is there any way to soften the weld or melt it with extreme heat?

 

There's arc gouging, which uses a stinger, but if you don't know how to run stick you'll have a hard time running one

It removes weld deposits

Not in the way that "solder" melts

 

Reason being that weld deposits FUSE with the base metal. That is different from soldering.

 

Thank you! Looks like cutting it off is going to be my best bet. Way better option IMO than having a shop cut a hole into the pipe and reweld an entire new bung.

 

howdy

long time welder

spent 10 years on my tools in power plants and shipyards

The past 2 years I've transitioned out of welding and into quality control.

Sincerely... welding sucks and should've transitioned sooner. Staying clean all day at work is fcking nice

thats all

 

Really happy this project is out of the garage.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Got quite a few new projects lined up.

Also don't think I posted my LCA bump stop mount fix.

Drilled a hole wide nought to get a flange nut in and then fully welded that.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

I'd fully weld it in:

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Then grind it flush, but since I am grinding a bunch of the strength away I slit the edges, welded and then ground flush again.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr

The theory and hope being that it can't break loose if it can't spin with welds on each side of the nut holding it straight. Likely overkill but whatever.

 

Got an emergency request yesterday, so cut, bent, and welded these up and they're ready to ship to Canada





While I cleaned up my garage a little, freaking ADHD got the best of me...so I fired up the air compressor again and did a little something









Even made sure that shit wasn't canted at all



Not sure if I should paint it or leave it bare; since it's too big for my wife's desk I'll make her a smaller one

I know exactly who to gift this to though; one of my customer's that bought a welded dinosaur

 

I hope you encourage them to just clear coat it.

 

I guarantee it'll be an indoor piece

But yeah I'll mention it

I have a whole pack of felt pads just for this reason

 

Good to see you back . Even an office job I would still get dirty!

As long as your happy !!