MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

I was intimidated by this mod myself and took it to a local shop for a quote. I got the same bs and a pretty steep estimate. That forced me to DIY and I have no regrets. While I don’t notice a significant difference, I see no reason for the presence of the part for anyone who knows how to drive.

I’ve also come to realize that not all mechanics and shops are equal and especially not on pricing. Even the same shop can be great on some things and insane on others. But todays world is one of CYA because of that one guy who brings his truck back and tries to blame the mechanic.

TLDR, this is not a mod worth having someone else perform, DIY or leave as-is.

 

You have a 4cyl. None of the 2nd Gen or 3rd Gen 2.7l have them. See the 1st Post.

 

Uh.... Bleeding a clutch is a real thing.

 

yeah, but unless there’s something previously wrong, or they swap fluid types like dot4, bleeding wouldn’t change a thing in feel.

 

Correct. However, given that our clutches use DoT 4 fluid, it should be bled on the same schedule as the brakes. Every 2-3 years ish.

 

After trying to remove the accumulator twice, I've given up (tried Liquid Wrench, propane torch, time). Don't want to take the chance of damaging those lines trying to loosen the nuts like shown in the post #3480. I've got no capacity to rebuild those if they snap.

Not sure if this is kosher with thread rules, but I posted the Firn disc I bought from him on eBay in the TW Buy and Sell (link below).

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...lator-delete-disk-manual-transmission.826121/

$20 shipped.

 

A lot of people mention using different fluids, like dot4 or dot5.1 for better feel, cold temp performance, etc., but the oem Toyota fluid is DOT3.
PART NO.

$11 00475-1BF03 Brake Fluid - 12 oz.

00475-1BF03

From a sampling of readings, it’s a tradeoff between better performance under certain conditions and frequency of needing to change the fluid/relative tendency for water mixing in.

 

Anyone know offhand what kind of max pressure the dot3+ fluid is under? Would a tubing cutter and compression plumbing type fittings be a possible safe workaround and hold without leaks? Or a bad idea? If doing the mod and out of warranty, might as well remove and do the tubing solution, instead of the modified accumulator.

 

Every 2-3 years you say

I’ve never bled the brakes on any vehicle as normal maintenance…

 

Same

 

You used a torch .... On a line with brake fluid....

DOT 3 and 4 are interchangeable. 4 has a higher boiling point. Not really a huge factor if you have a Pro or Off Road with a separate reservoir. Sports share a reservoir.

DOT 5 is silicate based, always purple, and cannot be mixed with DOT3/4.

 

Not directly on the part. Too hard to explain here.

 

Yea, sounds like the disc might be the way since it sounds like less of a headache. Thanks for the input

 

That was an idea, but I don't trust myself enough with a dremel to do that Worst case scenario, I'd have the factory/non-modified accumulator if I wanted to revert back.

 

Lulz...whilst there are a couple who have said they didn't get their bang for the buck...

"This mod sux so bad I'm backing it out to stock " - Nobody ever

 

Not wrong at all, but more so the case if I did the cheapo o-riley method and messed up, I could at least put the accumulator back and be able to drive

 

Hey, i will happily sell you a disk, but if you are worried about messing the accumulator up, don't. It's nothing fancy and there is plenty of metal there. You would almost have to try to screw it up to cause a problem.

 

DM sent

 

Somewhere in here probably says but I haven’t seen it, are these fittings the same as the Tacoma 4runner front hard brake lines?

Can I just buy a Tacoma or 4runner brake line for a front calliper and reshape it to fit?

 

You can buy brake line from auto stores for like not even 6 bucks. And it's plenty long enough since they sell in different sizes.