Aux Fuse Panel Wiring Help

I just installed an Overland Equipped Aux Fuse Panel (https://overlandequipped.com/collec...for-3rd-generation-toyota-tacoma-2016-present)

and I am having some trouble transferring over my existing ditch lights.

before I had the fuse panel, I just ran the positive from the ditch light harness straight to the battery and the ground on the OEM ground spot on the inside fender - worked fine. I then installed the aux fuse panel, but realized the ring terminals on the wiring harness for the ditch lights were too big to fit on the screw spots on the fuse panel. so, I spliced on some smaller ring terminals onto the ditch light wiring harness.

after hooking up the aux fuse panel to the battery and OEM ground, and then hooking up the new smaller positive and negative wires onto the aux fuse panel, I get nothing from my ditch lights. nothing else changed in terms of my set up. any ideas what I could be doing wrong?

Here is a (terrible) visual of my set up. Aux fuse panel hooked up to OEM battery and ground. ditch lights wired to switch in the cab and then to aux fuse panel positive and negative screw ins.

 

do you have a picture of your splice? in the past, i've seen people twist insulated wires together, so anything's possible. but my general rule of thumb is to always first assume i messed something up first, and to always go over any part i altered to make work, then work backwards from that point to verify the other changes/additions work properly.

in this case, i'd check the splice first.
then check the lights to the battery.
then using a dmm, check the voltage at the input at the auxilary fuse panel to verify it has proper battery voltage-- using the metal of it's ground lug as the ground reference, which can also help to verify ground continuity.
after that, check the selected output location of the panel to verify it's outputting voltage. could be a bad module, bad fuse, or bad connection. also check the other outputs for voltage-- it could even be something as wierd as you accidently mounted the controller upside down and are trying to turn on 'output 1', but are hitting what's now 'output 8'

 

Do you have a relay installed for the ditch lights?

 

Have you checked to see if you have power at the #1 terminal of your drawing? (The fuse panel)
Are the ground points on the panel good?

A test light wold be an ideal way to narrow this down.

 

In addition to what the others have said, is there only one wire coming from your in cab switch as it’s drawn?

 

Could it be because the wiring harness on the ditch lights has a fuse on it already? Should i cut off that fuse and wire it straight to my aux fuse panel to eliminate the duplicate?

 

Yes, there is a relay on the wiring harness for the ditch lights

 

I have verified power is reaching the fuse panel via a dmm, however I’m not sure how to verify if power is reaching the screw locations, photos for reference:

 

I’ve got no experience with that specific panel, but the slots beside the screws look like fuse slots. If they are meant for a fuse, you might not get power at the screw location without a fuse installed at the screw you’re checking.

 

You need a fuse in the slot or else no power goes to the screw…

 

This.

 

The correct wiring for this set up would include the use of a relay. The switch on your cab would close the circuit of the relay, completing the connection and sending power to the lights. I have the same set up and installed a separate relay box to hold one relay per each of my added accessories that are powered off the auxiliary fuse block.

If you put a fuse in the slot you are testing and your test llght comes on. I would check the wiring from the cab switch to see if you have continuity when the switch is on. If that does work, check your wire splices.

 

That’s it! Got it. Thanks all!

 

Yep! That was it. Thanks everyone, still a noob at this stuff.