Need elec. help with the dreaded Abs, Parking, traction lights on and no speedometer,

Hey community, been getting my butt handed to me for about a week now and finally guess its time to ask for help.

2014 Toyota Tacoma V6 Automatic, 4x2 prerunner, Not 4x4

I have installed a PKE (passive key entry) remote push start button about a month ago. Working fine no issues.

Started installing subwoofers, door speaker and two amps. One for the subs and one for the door speakers. Was about 95% done and had the truck just idling or running in the driveway listening to the music on Normal-low while i was putting back on the door trims, kick panels etc.

Out of the blue the music stopped, Truck still running. Looked up and radio turned off, so i went to press the radio buttons and nothing. kind of got a little nervous and went to turn truck off and push to start button dead. Various lights on dash, can remember which ones. I started panicking and started removing the driverside dash where all the cluster crap of wires are ran and installed, push button model, wireless key fob reader, and two 1/0 wires running from batt. to back alongside driver door to rear of truck. To say the lest, its a lot going on right there.

As i was doing this, the truck started to stumble and idle weird. so i kind of stopped removing the dash and starting watching the idle stuff. went to give it a little gas and it stumbled and sounded really weak to rev. then about 1 min later died. so imminently jumped out and removed the batt cable.
though about removing the batt cable prior but did figure it would turn the truck off so i didnt mess with it.

After looking around for a bit didnt mind anything noticable, rehooked the batt up and tryed to crank it.
Almost dead batt. slow crank and no start.
Ok my first thought Alternator went bad due to 2 amps added. no big deal right?

Installed spare battery and truck fired right up. radio back on. reved up normal. seen lights on dash. ABS, Traction, Brake. Didnt think to much of it cause alt is probably bad.

Bought upgraded 140 amp alternator, new battery, installed. Nope, alternator not putting out charge. I thought what crap a bad alterantor out of box.
Spent 2 days looking online how to bench test alt. because i couldnt get anyone local to test it for me.

Finally figured it out and alt is good. so now i know what the alt needs with the S signal wire and IG2 wire etc. now time to trouble shoot it in the truck.

found the pigtail that plugs into the alt. one of the wires (Light green) IGN 2 wire had no power 12v. Jumped wire to batt and what would you know. back in action right? not so fast. lol

tested every fuse under dash and hood, all good but did break 140amp alt fuse trying to pull it before realizing its bolted in.lol even looked up how to test relays and verified the ones related to charging, nothing all good.

started pulling fuse box under drivers dash, toned out fused box and had connunity at 10amp line and load side of fuse, with the fuse pulled. i rang out where each side of the fuse conneter went to what connector to on the wiring pigtail harness. both side toned out.

found which wire going which connector from the fuse box going out to fire wall to under hood fuse box, to the alt pigtail.
did connunity test and nothing, ok broken wire i thought from pulling wires though fire wall.

I cut or spliced new wire about 4" from fuse box under the dash connector to about 4" up the pigtail to the alt pigtail...replacing the light green IGN2 wire essentially. and what would you know. we are back in action... Sort of....!

Still ABS, Traction, Brake lights on... Ok no big deal i can just slap some pictures of the kids up over the lights and ride on.

Took it for a test drive and drove, normal but no speedometer. Seen that and was like ok i need to park this and fix it correctly, dont want it to mess anymore up.

Now i am here!

I got this wiring diagram and been trying to figure it out. but still have a lot of questions on how to read it properly.

Also read from other forms it could be like the right rear abs sensor wire or something like that because all these issues are kind of one in the same..or something like this.

Havent did a connunity test on the abs wires yet, just read up on that,
but kind of hesistate because i havent done anything to the wheels or anything to that nature.

but heres the kicker and million dollar question.

I did at some point feel like i smelled something a little off, but no smoke and nothing really strong, but all 4 doors open and i am standing outside leaning into truck to work. Stopped for a minute and kind of thought about it and decided it probably was the 2 new amps. LOL

So I feel like i burned up a wire that is common to the ABS, Brake, Trac etc. but if thats the case then why didnt the fuse protect it?

If i did burn up a wire, which one is common to all of these and where do i start? cant make to much sense of the electrical wiring diagram i uploaded. dont really give you location of connector etc.

I am all ears to all suggestions and any would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and be safe.

 

So your alternator is charging now?

Are you certain your IG1, IG1 No2, ECU-B, ABS No1, and ABS No2 fuses are good?

Have you checked powers and grounds at the ABS module?

 

So your alternator is charging now?
Yes, I think alternator is charging now since I straight wired the light green wire from the #4 pin on the DC connector pigtail at the fuse panel under the driver side dash and ran it straight to the pigtail at the alternator. It is charging as far as my limited ability and knowledge to verify. Batt volts engine not running 12.9ish. crank the truck and check voltage and it's 14ish. So I think so.

Are you certain your IG1, IG1 No2, ECU-B, ABS No1, and ABS No2 fuses are good?
I thought I was, I did a continuity test on all the fuses under the hood and under the driver side dash. But tested them in the truck, didn't pull each one. Thought I could test them still installed, but could this give erroneous reading if there was a short or something?
Also are they more than those two locations? I'll check which ones tomorrow I tested and compare them to the ones you listed.

Have you checked powers and grounds at the ABS module?
No not yet. Just read about this possiblity today after I was defeated and it got dark so I came in to read up on it more. But still don't know exactly how to do it. I was planning on digging into it more.

Where are the modules located. Are u talking about each one at each wheel? 4 of them? And checking them in reference to the module in behind the glove box? If so could you please shed some light on how to go about doing this, cause more than likely I am going to prod and prob these things more than alien abducted person.
I plan on working on it again tomorrow after I get off work but only have like 2 hours max of daylight when I get home.

could added load like I mentioned somehow over-power a certain wire that is common to all these and burn it up? Still confused if so then why didn't a fuse blow first. Thanks and will keep everyone updated.

 

Yea it should be 13.2v - 14.5v with the engine running.

There's just the 2 fuse boxes.
I would recommend using a test light to check them, they should have power on both sides with the key on.

First make sure your fuses are good.
You have to go to the connector at the ABS module, find the right pins, and lightly probe them with a small pin (do not shove anything larger than the male pins into it). If you are checking power you will want your test light clipped to battery ground, if you are checking grounds you will want it clipped to battery positive.

The ABS module (Skid Control ECU) is under the hood on the passenger side near the firewall.

In theory it should blow a fuse before something goes up in smoke but it depends where and what you were tapping things into.

 

Just keeping anyone following post up to date. Trucks parked in driveway (Shadetree Mechanic), Calling for off and on rain next few days or so troubleshooting will resume when time and weather permits.

Thinking my next easy quick stuff to do when it stops raining is pull out the 2 runs of 1/0 at the firewall/kick panel and thoroughly check all the connectors near the drivers side kick panel and firewall to make sure they are all intact and tight, I checked them before but by trying to navigate and push and wedge the bundle of wires around. this time try to clear up the clutter.
-then start testing what Dm93 suggested, since i already have driver side taken apart and this step is more invasive.

Will report back with updates as they come in.

Questions i still have until then.

1- Even if it is say a connector or short and i do fix it knowingly or not knowingly will it automatically clear up the lights on the dash? Read somewhere that ABS stuff stays on until issue is fixed and resetting it with a programmer. Meaning can I trouble shoot a little then check the dash for lights still on or if they went off.

2- Anyone have a wiring diagram that actually shows where each connector type is located in vehicle. Meaning if you look at the PDF i attached up at original post. Go to Page 254 (Charging Section) and right in the middle pg you got a the light green wire going to a DC connector, one side pin 13 and other side pin 4. and when you scroll down a little more you show you the connector and pin out. and then when you go to the abs section it shows the same type of connector but at a diff location on the wiring diagram.
Are we saying that theres multiple ones the the same DC type connectors on the truck but a different locations through out the truck? or are we saying that each of these wires all go to this one DC type connector?










3) All of these pics i showed showed a LG color wire all going to a DC connector. Does that mean that essentially its the same wire but snakes all over the truck to multiple locations and multiple sensors? Meaning if you look at the whole doc wiring diagram i uploaded and look for each of the lights i have mentioned. ABS, Parking Brake, Trac Control, Alternator not charging...ETc. they all seem to show the same LG wire color.
- Am i crazy to think or is it logical to think that all the sensors/fuses/connectors...etc share one common wire? Meaning that starting somewhere in this spiderweb circuit... the LG wire starts, then is routes to certian fuses/connectors in series then continues on to various sensors until it finally gets to the last sensor in the circuit that is shares....say the Rear right ABS sensor( Just guessing since its the furthest from the batt and fuse box) and then it ends?
- if so then if all of these lights show up can we deduce that the problem lies before the first sensor, cause if it was say shorted or broken between the 3rd or 4th sensor in the circuit, the sensor thats before the break or short, shouldnt it still work? so we could look at what all sensors are on the common shared circuit and know where in-between to start looking for the issue?
- Also if its a positive circuit, say 12v+, and its just a nick in the insulation and the wire is touching the cab metal, but the fuse didnt blow, so theres still voltage on the wire, then this wouldnt cause a issue right? just more amperage draw for entire circuit? but if that the case then could we say that the only issues we could have that would cause issues is, 1) complete break in a 12v+ or a 12v- wire, 2) a short only only on a 12v+ wire with enough fault to blow fuse or burn wire into, cause short to ground on ground 12v- wire is the same thing.
Because if a 12v+ wires insulation fails and burns up another 12v+ wires insulation causing a phase to phase connection, its still the same 12v+ so you wouldn't know it? Right?

Anyways just trying to learn all of this. Thanks for the time and effort and hope to resolve my issues and this post helps many people in the future.

 

I think your trying to over-complicate things here but I'll try.

Always a good idea when you have a new problem pop up right after work is done is to go back to the area where said work was done as that's likely where you will find your issue.
Don't forget to check the fuses I listed for power with a test light (not just checking continuity with a meter).

Most of the time when a fault with the ABS is fixed the lights should go out after a key cycle (although the code(s) will remain in memory for awhile).

The grey boxes your referring to on the diagrams are junction boxes, the lines in the boxes indicate internal connections.
The letters in the ovals are connectors and the numbers next to them are the pin number on that connector.
The same connectors can appear on multiple diagrams where circuits are interconnected.
The red arrows you have drawn is connector DC, it's the same connector on all diagrams. That connector is on the Instrument Panel J/B No 1 above the left kick panel.

They are different wires but they share a common power feed (the IG1 No2 fuse), they are connected to each other in the junction boxes. Also not everything on the diagrams is a sensor, there are modules, sensors, fuses, junction boxes, etc.

Your kind of on the right track here, when we have multiple systems having issues that started at the same time we typically want to look for what those systems have in common like common powers and grounds for starters.

Any wire that touches a ground is going to be shorted, if it's on a powered circuit it's either gona blow the fuse or burn up something.